1963 Valiant V200 Wagon

-
well i got the fan mounted. i had to shove it over to one side so it would clear a supprt. its a pretty tight fit, but everything clears. i went with the biggest fan that would fit. even though its not centered, im sure it will cool better than my old 4 blade fan with no shroud.
 

Attachments

  • PB100213.jpg
    135.6 KB · Views: 560
  • PB100215.jpg
    82 KB · Views: 566
well the wagon has been in need of floor pans, and i finally got around to installing them today. well at least getting them ready for installation. these pans are really nice. and they fit great. i will post more pictures as i get it done.
 

Attachments

  • PB290282.jpg
    87.3 KB · Views: 518
  • PB290281.jpg
    113.4 KB · Views: 526
More pics of this girl, please...
attachment.php
 
well i got the drivers side pan mostly welded in. i ran out of daylight.
 

Attachments

  • PC010282.jpg
    89.7 KB · Views: 510
slantscamp,
Are those the new early a pans that just came out? Who has them? They look VERY well made, NICE work BTW. :cheers:

Almost forgot, looks like they come back under the seat more than the cheapies that are out there, which is exactly what I need for the passenger side of the valiant, rubber floor mat held water and destroyed that side way under the seat...
 
hey rocky65. the floorpans are from auto body specialties. they were a little pricey, but they fit great. i didnt need to cut mine that far back, but it was easier to cut and weld. once it stops raining i will do the passenger side.
 
Thanks slantscamp, I thought those were the ones I had heard about and yes they are pricey, but they are the nicest ones I've seen for early A's so far... I need passenger side for the valiant and probably both for the wagon... so OUCH on the price but man they look nice, great job and keep the pics coming!
 
Hey Slantscamp

Can you tell me what the part number of the FRIST master cyclinder that you installed. I am in the progress replacing the old one in the 1964 Valiant 200.

Thanks Bear
 
Hey Slantscamp

Can you tell me what the part number of the FRIST master cyclinder that you installed. I am in the progress replacing the old one in the 1964 Valiant 200.

Thanks Bear

the cheapest I found was $35 at O'rilley aka. CSK......it does matter 4-wheel-drum or front disc.
 
yes it matters. there are drum/drum master cylinders, and disc/drum masyer cylinders. that one was for a 67 dodge dart with 4 wheel drum. i ended up going with discs though and had to get a different master cylinder. if you check rock auto. they list a few.
 
well i started to mount the my line lock today. i need to order a new master cylinder and proportioning valve still. then make new lines and that project will be done.
 

Attachments

  • P1060247.jpg
    121.3 KB · Views: 638
1987 dodge dakota disc/drum master cylinder, it dont get any easier or cheaper then that,, new or rebuilt, 2 bolt mounting flange 15/16 bore,,but sold as metric,,it is an exact replacement of the master that is no longer available from mopar performance ,,,i have used both no difference, i currently use the dakota master,,with 1976 dart front disc and giant C body 11x2 1/2 drums
 
thanks for the info. i have the newer 2 bolt style on it now, but i had a problem with it the last few times i drove it. where the pedal would be real soft once in a while. or even go to the floor. i wasnt loosing fluid anywhere either. i think it may be the proportioning valve since its the only thing in my brake system that isnt brand new. but to be on the safe side im going to replace both the master cylinder and prop. valve. i was just planning on going with the eastwood with the larger reservoir, and their adjustable valve.
 
ok heres some thign to remember,,, check and see what the bore size of your current master is now, if you like the way it feels whe n working properly,,sounds to me like your master is leaking down a little at a time or a very small drip at some connection,, i had a braided hose come loose and had the smallest amount of fluid leaking caused the pedal to sink to the floor if the car sat with out being driven,,,

chaning the bore size of your master will make a big difference how the pedal feels,, the bigger the bore, the harder it is to push the pedal,,very noticalbe on ,manual brakes,,,the smaller the bore the more fluid it pushed quicker,,,less effort to push to get the same stopping power,, on power brakes you may not feel the difference,,
 
Does anyone make a rust repair section for the rear footwells for a wagon? Would a 65 Barracuda one fit a Wagon of the same year?

Thanks

Alan
 
ok. well i made a little progress today. i mounted up the new master cylinder and made some lines. i need to get a "T" for my front lines and then i will be done. i spent about 4 hours making them, but i kept screwing up and i wanted them to look good.
 

Attachments

  • P1160249.jpg
    84.7 KB · Views: 543
  • P1160248.jpg
    83 KB · Views: 549
hey alan,

are you talking about the rear floor pans, if so autobodyspecialist has them now for early a bodies. i dont think they are different than sedans.
 
ok, brake lines are all run. i even got some nice clips that hold the lines. i just need to install the prop. valve after i paint the bottoms of the floors. that will be easy though, it just goes inline with the rear brake line. i also started wiring the fan today. got the relay all mounted up.
 

Attachments

  • P1170256.jpg
    97.1 KB · Views: 513
  • P1170257.jpg
    116.2 KB · Views: 514
  • P1170258.jpg
    91.6 KB · Views: 513
  • P1170267.jpg
    83.5 KB · Views: 497
man, i cant wait for my blower adapter to get here. i cant wait to get this thing all bolted up and back in the wagon.
 

Attachments

  • Aaron front view.jpg
    88.2 KB · Views: 512
  • Aaron pulleys on.jpg
    85.6 KB · Views: 497
  • P1160254.jpg
    81.1 KB · Views: 487
-
Back
Top