khuebner250
Well-Known Member
Looks like 1 of 4 transmission crossmember bolts. it's gotta be 4" long based on the pic. I don't think the idler bolt is that large?
idk,
Keith
1972 Duster Build with my Daughter
- Thread starter Jim Kueneman
- Start date
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Looks like 1 of 4 transmission crossmember bolts. it's gotta be 4" long based on the pic. I don't think the idler bolt is that large?
idk,
Keith
Divenut
Well-Known Member
Looking great man! Kudos to you and your daughter.
Pat
Pat
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
Whatever you say Jim, whatever you say.
No question about it, Jim is a friggin machine. I wonder if his paying job really knows how much time he spends on this project.
As for a frame off restoration? Kind of tough to do on a uni-body, even for Jim.
I see what you did there...... I didn't see but did he get the posi unit rebuilt too lol.......
JW
I bought a tri-power set up for carburetors too and they’re all rebuilt
Too big in diameter. I am sure it is the old idler arm bolt, they are very long, large diameter and fine thread. I have a new idler arm and bolt so it goes in the extra bolt box.
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
Fixed it for you Jim.
Trust your knowledge, you have the gift, remember?
GlenRay heater core arrived. Rear springs are de-bushing-ed (a word?) and ready for the media blaster and AC condenser stripped of paint. I am taking these last large parts to my machine shop that did the 318 to use his BIG cabinet bead blaster, we are tired of crawling on the ground fighting an recovering media in the driveway....
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Anyone have the short stock fuel line that goes between the fuel pump and the fuel filter. My understanding is these cars had the fuel filter down by the pump vs up by the carb like my Coronet did.
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
You mean the line and filter (below the alternator in the pic) shown below. This was our original configuration and we put it back that way. The filter is before the pump obviously. My Runner is like your Trumpet, between the pump and carb. I like them better down there before the pump, less mess come changing time.
As for the line, it's currently employed. We cut the tip off and ran a short piece of rubber line to better fit the new Holley. Classic Industries, stainless is only around $30.
I suppose if you really want to be anal about you could put one on both sides.
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When you start to restore the AC components you can see the light at the end of the tunnel! Here is the original unit before we pulled the Dart apart....
Now with nothing but Aircraft Stripper to remove the old paint and a thin needle nose combined with a cheap Harbor Freight fin comb miracles can happen.
And the back side was much less work....
Now with nothing but Aircraft Stripper to remove the old paint and a thin needle nose combined with a cheap Harbor Freight fin comb miracles can happen.
And the back side was much less work....
daddio4048
Daddios72
Is that the new harbor freight mopar k -member roll around stand Jim? I gotta get me one.Looks like it works great !
Bit the bullet and crawled around on the concrete today to finishing blasting the last batch of parts! Here is my large parts blasting booth....
I emptied my HF blasting cabinet with the glass beads. I used these to blast the parts that will stay natural since it leave as nice finish... After a few recycles I pick up enough other junk that I will just mix it in with the more aggressive bucket...
Here is Startblast and Coarse Coal Slag with a bit of glass beads from the past...
I use a piece of nylon window screen to sift the material after I sweep it up and refill the bucket.
All the big parts are blasted and painted ready for assembly this weekend.
I emptied my HF blasting cabinet with the glass beads. I used these to blast the parts that will stay natural since it leave as nice finish... After a few recycles I pick up enough other junk that I will just mix it in with the more aggressive bucket...
Here is Startblast and Coarse Coal Slag with a bit of glass beads from the past...
I use a piece of nylon window screen to sift the material after I sweep it up and refill the bucket.
All the big parts are blasted and painted ready for assembly this weekend.
Manifold bolts and manifolds are done with Seymours 1200F Castblast paint.
The fan was natural on the blades and the center core was painted. I polished one of the blades but I think I will just paint them with Seymours Stainless Steel and then mask and paint the black.
The fan was natural on the blades and the center core was painted. I polished one of the blades but I think I will just paint them with Seymours Stainless Steel and then mask and paint the black.
Supply run to town today for glass bead and a few other odds and ends. Shot the underside where the filler was to blend in the welds in the spare tire area and the Dart 318 torsion bars. Kaelyn and I got the rear springs/shackles re-bushed with an Energy Suspension kit and the springs installed. With the color scheme black seemed like the right choice. Now to get the 8 3/4" axel in house. Pulled the gas sending unit for the 2 tanks from the Dart and Duster... both rusted beyond use. Guess I have to buy an aftermarket
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GlenRay rebuilt heater core fits like a glove. The DMT kit gave you the correct white caulking for between the core and the back case (the front cover has a foam seal). It was dried out in just the time I had the kit open. I threw it in the garbage and got out the old reliable 3M Dum-Dum...
Don't forget the foam strip to seal around the heater pipes.
In restoring the visible plastic I used Herb's adhesion promotor and his dye. I like it for textured panels but not for smooth plastic. SEM satin black is still my favorite for smooth surfaces. Its spray nozzle is the best I have ever seen and it looks orange peeled when you lay it down but it flattens out and looks great..
Herb's paint.
Now in goes the first door which switches from heat to AC and to the under dash vent assy.
Now the door that switches to the defroster vents. See the piece of foam DMT give you so it won't rattle, just like the original.
This door must go in the cover first but here is where it sits in the housing.
In the cover it goes.
Now the AC section is bolted and and done!
Don't forget the foam strip to seal around the heater pipes.
In restoring the visible plastic I used Herb's adhesion promotor and his dye. I like it for textured panels but not for smooth plastic. SEM satin black is still my favorite for smooth surfaces. Its spray nozzle is the best I have ever seen and it looks orange peeled when you lay it down but it flattens out and looks great..
Herb's paint.
Now in goes the first door which switches from heat to AC and to the under dash vent assy.
Now the door that switches to the defroster vents. See the piece of foam DMT give you so it won't rattle, just like the original.
This door must go in the cover first but here is where it sits in the housing.
In the cover it goes.
Now the AC section is bolted and and done!
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So tried to put it in...... and I tightened the upper bolt too much for the old brittle fiberglass...
Need to get some JB Weld for a patch..... Sucks...
The real problem is the Duster does not have the rear bracket stud since it is a '72 and this is a '73 box... need to get the welder out again...
Need to get some JB Weld for a patch..... Sucks...
The real problem is the Duster does not have the rear bracket stud since it is a '72 and this is a '73 box... need to get the welder out again...
After that depressed the hell out of me I decided to find something else to screw up... Pulled the condenser off the drying rack and slid it in. Since I decided to use the '72 lower radiator support with the Demon chin fairing tab the hole for the bottom brackets were not there so I drilled them out and installed the condenser.
Next on the agenda was to get the AC lines run (don't worry this is the old dryer for fit check, when the system is about to be sealed I will install the new one).
This brace is a SOB, these bolts come in from the back and you have to have the radiator out to get to them... We are going to paint that bracket black so it won't show blue through the grill.
Latch will be painted black too.
Dug out the headlight adjuster kit and installed the head lights. Those spring are a bugger to get started and need a bit of re-bending to get them started..
Lastly bead blasted the fresh air duct and restored it.
Next on the agenda was to get the AC lines run (don't worry this is the old dryer for fit check, when the system is about to be sealed I will install the new one).
This brace is a SOB, these bolts come in from the back and you have to have the radiator out to get to them... We are going to paint that bracket black so it won't show blue through the grill.
Latch will be painted black too.
Dug out the headlight adjuster kit and installed the head lights. Those spring are a bugger to get started and need a bit of re-bending to get them started..
Lastly bead blasted the fresh air duct and restored it.
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I was dreading this but it went easier than expected..... Cluster time...
Removed the gauges. The horror stories of the ammeter start here. The connection get loose because the fiber washer falls apart causing arcing and sparking to start.
I bead blasted the connection points and though the washer was cracked it was not brittle so I just cleaned it up and reused it. Bead blasting and steel wool make the circuit board nice and there were no cracked traces.
Don't forget the plastic bushing and the ridges go into the steel housing so the threaded studs can't short out on the main housing.
Snug the bolts that make electrical contact.
I masked from the front and sprayed the SEM satin black from the rear to get the black around the gauges finished in the plastic face plate.
The holes for the switches are a bugger....
The plastic pins were brittle and broke on disassembly for the gauge shields/covers. I used some 00-90 brass screws. Drilled out the pin bosses and tapped them then used the tiny screws and washers. You could use JB Weld but I was not sure if I would ever want to take it back apart to try to get more scratches out of the clear plastic.
Removed the gauges. The horror stories of the ammeter start here. The connection get loose because the fiber washer falls apart causing arcing and sparking to start.
I bead blasted the connection points and though the washer was cracked it was not brittle so I just cleaned it up and reused it. Bead blasting and steel wool make the circuit board nice and there were no cracked traces.
Don't forget the plastic bushing and the ridges go into the steel housing so the threaded studs can't short out on the main housing.
Snug the bolts that make electrical contact.
I masked from the front and sprayed the SEM satin black from the rear to get the black around the gauges finished in the plastic face plate.
The holes for the switches are a bugger....
The plastic pins were brittle and broke on disassembly for the gauge shields/covers. I used some 00-90 brass screws. Drilled out the pin bosses and tapped them then used the tiny screws and washers. You could use JB Weld but I was not sure if I would ever want to take it back apart to try to get more scratches out of the clear plastic.
Model train tools come in handy for this fine detail work!
And the finished product. I need to call Dick's in Tempe and ask what he painted the speedo needle with so I can do the same for the gauges to make them pop.
The pencil eraser stamp pad for the white lettering works great.
And the finished product. I need to call Dick's in Tempe and ask what he painted the speedo needle with so I can do the same for the gauges to make them pop.
The pencil eraser stamp pad for the white lettering works great.
Detroit Muscle Technologies.
What a dummy of course I have Orange paint!
Here we go again with oxidation at rivet connection. A soak in vinegar then lye to neutralize the acid and good as new...
This connection from rivet to rivet across a shorting strap was 54 ohms when I started. It is now less than 1 ohm..
Polished up the knobs and installed them. I lost the damn spring steel tab that hold the wiper knob on..... Maybe it is some where in one of the boxes/baggies. I will keep looking...
Here we go again with oxidation at rivet connection. A soak in vinegar then lye to neutralize the acid and good as new...
This connection from rivet to rivet across a shorting strap was 54 ohms when I started. It is now less than 1 ohm..
Polished up the knobs and installed them. I lost the damn spring steel tab that hold the wiper knob on..... Maybe it is some where in one of the boxes/baggies. I will keep looking...
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