1974 Brain Box saves the day.
- Thread starter George Jets
- Start date
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MP performance books forget which ones.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Ten 4 thank you Sir
The ones with 0 instead an O are from the electrical chapter of the Engine Book.
That typographical error (and many others) is in several of the later editions.
The edition I have is the one with Carrol Shelby on it. Nobody was proof reading the stuff the going out the door. Best I can tell MP was on autopilot, feeding off the work done by the previous generation.
That typographical error (and many others) is in several of the later editions.
The edition I have is the one with Carrol Shelby on it. Nobody was proof reading the stuff the going out the door. Best I can tell MP was on autopilot, feeding off the work done by the previous generation.
moparlee
64 Valiant
I didn't have any luck with this. Kept going threw modules like candy with no run time...yes...I used the correct grease. Went back to the Mopar style brain box's.
moparlee
64 Valiant
This what you can put in the back of these box's.
I just bought some NOS aftermarket boxes....Silver Streak (made in the U.S.A) out of Troy, MI that gotten hot in the box's would like to clean them up and use them. Was wonder if a person could melt the old stuff out and put new stuff in...is this what you're showing the folks here with this stuff?
Looking at #205, I can see at least one reason why it wouldn't work, & possibly two.
[1] Pin 'C' is the coil neg wire. It needs to be kept away from the p/up wires, as the coil neg wire too close can cause false triggering.
[2] Red is often used conventionally for the pos wire. If this has been done [ goes to Coil [+] & 12v supply ], then the B & C wires are reversed on the module.
[1] Pin 'C' is the coil neg wire. It needs to be kept away from the p/up wires, as the coil neg wire too close can cause false triggering.
[2] Red is often used conventionally for the pos wire. If this has been done [ goes to Coil [+] & 12v supply ], then the B & C wires are reversed on the module.
How is that moduale grounded in a plastic case? Not seeing it. Bet if you mount it to the metal plate it would be fine and not burn them out.
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Missed that thanks.
bee1971
Well-Known Member
This #2
moparlee
64 Valiant
Sorry didn't realize you guys were even talking about the FBO box. Yes it's aluminum and the rear plate is aluminum also.....the wiring was like that when they sent it....and my bad for not noticing/checking it to see if it right or wrong....but all the modules that I put in it worked for awhile....
Ok...went and looked at it...
Pin 1 blue is going to terminal B
Pin 2 red(note that it isn't soldered) is going to terminal C
Pin 4 yellow is going to terminal G
Pin 5 white is going to terminal W
Ok...went and looked at it...
Pin 1 blue is going to terminal B
Pin 2 red(note that it isn't soldered) is going to terminal C
Pin 4 yellow is going to terminal G
Pin 5 white is going to terminal W
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moparlee
64 Valiant
I wish that I would of bought one of these over the years why they were available.
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Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
go to the hardware store get a tube of clear silicone and squeeze it into the back of that old one to reseal it...
moparlee
64 Valiant
The last four pin Select BorgWarner module I lost W terminal....not sure if they others was the same reason or not. I'm also wondering if that GM modules aren't also coming into quality issues like the Mopar brain boxes? Food for thought.
moparlee
64 Valiant
That's got to be the coolest looking BorgWarner box I've ever seen.
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moparlee
64 Valiant
Has anybody tested these out...I realize that looks goofy has heck...but if they work they work.
moparlee
64 Valiant
I'm also doing an experiment at the moment with Manicini's $11.95 cheap box cause it doesn't look like the latest fake boxes....will see how well it works on the 440 in the 86 RC. Also I notice that I used feet like MSD this time and yes....I've made sure it's over grounded. To try and see if it helps with cooling...or not....again we'll see.
Mancini also told me though an email that they were made in Taiwan.....anyways
Mancini also told me though an email that they were made in Taiwan.....anyways
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qUICK SIGNS ARE NOTHING WRITTEN ON TOP OF THE TALL TRANSISTER AND THE "REPLACES cHRYSLER pRODUCT STICKER. rUN IT hOT (HAIR DRYER HOT AND FRIDGE COLD) AND COLD TO SIMULATE CONDITIONS.
Oh crap caps lock sory!
Oh crap caps lock sory!
Now, I'm not arguing here.....quite the opposite, actually. Looking for clarification. WHY is it "ok" to use the style resistors you say are "bad" for the ignition boxes on the instrument cluster voltage regulator? Lots of people have done that and they work great. Isn't it possible some of "that style" resistors....transistors.....whateverthehelltheyare are a good design? Help me understand.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Same issue on a Lifetime alt, come to find, remanned un Xhina
Rob it is all about getting the heat from them out thats usually what makes electronics fail. The old ones aka "real" are mounted to a heat sink that dissapates the heat well, the new transistors are burried inside the box so its heat and other heat dgenerated by other internals has no where to go. Pretty wel explained in here. That help?
pishta
I know I'm right....
That's probably not beach sand but binder saturated silica dessicant. we use that stuff in 'dime bags' in paper cable splices to keep the moisture at bay.
pishta
I know I'm right....
at least they are honest about it.
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