273 questions...a few of them

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toolmanmike said:
67Dart is doing a good job here so I won't mess things up with a different point of view.
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Listen, feel free to jump in. At this time I'm thinking it's a geometry/ bind situation, but I'm running out of ideas.
 
Hey, I just noticed on the specs from the comp website, that it states .022" for both intake and exhaust.....??? Whats with that, I thought it was .013 and .022
 
I don't know why the manufacturers do that. My Isky E-4 is .018/.018. I have set it to both specs and couldn't tell much difference.
 
toolmanmike said:
I don't know why the manufacturers do that. My Isky E-4 is .018/.018. I have set it to both specs and couldn't tell much difference.
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So did you set to Isky specs of to factory specs?? Oh yeah, a heads up as well. I noticed in the factory service manual they list the torque specs on the rocker shaft bolts as 30 ft pounds....well that didnt seem right, so I checked my Mopar book by Larry Shepard and it states 15 ft pounds...
 
What year manual? Those 5/16 bolts? Should be 15
 
Were the head or block faces milled? That could alter the geometry.

Head gasket thickness? Is it close to stock or more or less?
 
Manual was my 69, gonna dbl chk dads 67 manual
Karl, to the best of my knowledge everything is stock, head gasket is from the std felpro kit.
 
I can't help but think there must be something very simple that we're all missing. Just a quick reminder, remember those rocker assemblies aren't the originals for that motor. Even though they are the correct ones I wouldn't expect them to have even been in the ball park on the adjustments to begin with. Not to be insulting but have you tried backing everything way off and with the plugs out turned the motor?
 
if your crank timing sprocket only has one keyway and the cam and cam sprocket only has one locating dowel hole, and the dots are eye to eye lining up at 12 on the crank and 6 at the cam, there is no way to install the timing set incorrectly.
 
Ok well at dads again, with no results. Here is what I have found so far, I called comp cams and they said to skip the factory specs, that the valve lash on both should be set to .020".....did that and it still jams!! WTF!!! Im wondering if the heads were milled or the block was??? Once we get the 1st set of valves done, and we rotate the exhaust valve on the one we just set is hitting the piston...so we back it off(quite a bit) then it turns...
 
my only guess would be that the there is something going on with the cam or the pushrod length. i know this may sound like a pain, but you could go back and put your original cam back in and see if that one will spin around and fall into adjustment, just to rule out anything with the new cam.....just a thought ...
 
4spdragtop said:
Once we get the 1st set of valves done, and we rotate the exhaust valve on the one we just set is hitting the piston...so we back it off(quite a bit) then it turns...
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!!EEEE YIKES !!

If you are absolutely sure that the valve is hitting the piston, then the valve timing must surely be incorrect

I'm not saying you did it, maybe the sprocket set was mis machined or mis-marked Hell, maybe the cam grinder got the cam indexed wrong

Sounds like it's time to get serious. If you can't scare up a degree wheel you can PRINT them from online.

And, you can make a couple of checks by referring to your cam card and figuring degrees on your own balancer

First do the "piston stop" routine to be sure the timing marks are accurate, then determin some point on the cam by measuring around the balancer and calculating how many degrees per inch

For example, the website shows that exhaust closes at 21* ATDC. You can EASILY measure that. Same with intake, shows it opens at 29BTC and you can easily measure that. so there are two checkpoints that you should be able to get EASILY within 2-3* and will tell you if the valve timing is seriously AFU or not.

This thing have hi compression pistons? Any chance the pistons are in upside down?
 
Here's another painfully insulting double check, sorry... Any chance the cam is 180 out? It goes around twice for each crank revolution.
 
JimsDuster said:
Here's another painfully insulting double check, sorry... Any chance the cam is 180 out? It goes around twice for each crank revolution.
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if your crank timing sprocket only has one keyway and the cam and cam sprocket only has one locating dowel hole, and the dots are eye to eye lining up at 12 on the crank and 6 at the cam, there is no way to install the timing set incorrectly.
 
If the valves are hitting the pistons then either the cam is ground wrong or you don't have the cam timing right. It needs to be degreed to be sure
 
Okay, I'm going to show my own ignorance here, but even old guys can learn right? Since the crank turns twice for every time the cam turns once why can't it be on the wrong revolution with the dots still being lined up? And wouldn't that make the cam 180 degrees out? Sorry, just something my brain is stuck on.
 
Never mind, brain cells just fired... it's only a mtter of which strock it's on. I get it :violent1:
 
JimsDuster said:
Never mind, brain cells just fired... it's only a mtter of which strock it's on. I get it :violent1:
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IN FACT, Jim, the cam marks are "in a sense" 180 out. When you install a Mopar, Chivvy, and many other cams "by the book" IE cam sprocket mark at 6 o'clock, and crank mark at 12 o'clock, you have in reality set the engine to fire on no6

That is, if you don't rotate the engine before you install the distributor, in order to get the thing to run, you would point the rotor to fire on no6
 
i have never used a magnum grind in anything but a 360 and it was a hydraulic . it was a slide in and go type of deal. i dont know if these things below have anything to do with it, but i posted them anyway....


2

[2] Requires machining on cylinder heads.



3

[3] Standard weight and lightweight retainers



7

[7] Stock springs cannot be used.



23

[23] Includes special shafts & spacers.



24

[24] Special 10º 4 Groove Lock. Single Groove use part #612-16.
 
Ok, home on break, just got off the phone with dad, he took the lifter(new and old), pushrod and old cam to the machine shop. Al the machinist measured the old cam and the lift on it is .405", the new cam is .468" so this cam wont work!! WTF, I talked to comp at least 3 times!!
 
4spdragtop said:
Ok, home on break, just got off the phone with dad, he took the lifter(new and old), pushrod and old cam to the machine shop. Al the machinist measured the old cam and the lift on it is .405", the new cam is .468" so this cam wont work!! WTF, I talked to comp at least 3 times!!
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holy crap batman, i had a feeling it was in the cam , those guys are inCOMPetent LOL
 
well got off the phone with comp and that is the lowest lift cam they sell, so maybe aftermarket pistons in it?? Or comp asked if the bottom end was redone???
 
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