AMEN and AMEN !!!!!!
318 or 340?
- Thread starter Jplush
- Start date
-
AMEN and AMEN !!!!!!
Why I said that is a converter and gears is what makes a combo work. In a street engine I don't think bore sizes are gonna effect the hp outcome overly in the 318/340/360 with the same parts eg. Intake, cam, heads etc.. the difference will be the powerband will be 300-400 rpm apart from each other. So say the converter and gear ratio were optimal for the 360 then the 340 would ruffly need 300-400 more stall and at least one gear step deeper to put it on equal ground.
Since most people aren't willing to go deeper than 3.xx:1 gears and 3.55 being most popular the larger engine will almost always be more suited.
To the OP since you don't want BB 360 is your best choice, 650, headers, 9:1 210-220 cam should probably put you where you want to be.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
All I can is wow.
If you think that magnum system is all that you are a fool. Chrysler went to it to save money, just like Chevy did back in the day. It's a piss poor way to open a valve. Makes no difference whether it bolts down or is adjustable. It's still crap.
I'm sure the FSM says something else though.
To the OP build what you want. Just remember that ANYONE can post on the web and run their mouths.
Never said it was "all that". I meant exactly what I wrote. And I didn't insult you doing it. I am also no fool.
It makes a big difference whether it's actually anchored to the head or not. I can simply agree to disagree. Have a nice day.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Let me help you out since you like to flap your gums in my direction.
No one in their right mind would use a system like that. You can't find an 11 second Chevy that isn't running shafts any more, unless they are so cheap as to be retarded. Why would you tell the OP to do something that has been proven junk for decades? So in my opinion they are JUNK. I know you get butt hurt about that but a fact is a fact.
I can remember the Crower brothers were POSITIVE that that rocker system was balls out number 1. They did up a 383 and IIRC a hemi with ball stud rockers. They said the HP was the same as the shaft rockers. What they did not say was that they stopped development because they figured out when the cams got more aggressive and spring rates went up, the ball/stud system was a sure loser.
I am all for a better mouse trap. Any ball system, no matter how it is attached is a cheap way to do it. Even Yunick knew they were junk. He just had to deal with it.
Run what you want. But I would suggest you would argue with a sign post.
Gentlemen gentlemen......this doesn't help the OP
Still, good information and a great topic.
I happen to love the LA 318....always will.
Still, good information and a great topic.
I happen to love the LA 318....always will.
stroked340
Well-Known Member
LMFAO...too dark to see whats running what..
salinasjoel
Learning Daily
wrong thread
Mad Smith
Member
It's hard to find a better price than an old 318, I'm swapping mine out with a fresh rebuild, selling original for like $100... ha. Will end up with a 360+ down the road, but for now can't beat it. Big cam and headers won't hurt either.
moper
Well-Known Member
I think, given it's a convertible and will be cruising, maybe long distance, I'd do a 318. Cheap, as powerful as any comparable small block, and easy to find. You can make 1hp per inch plus with very little investment beyond solid performance parts and good machining.
Infecteddog
Well-Known Member
This comment is more and more my thought on cheap performance. With the decent stock cam and everything you're starting out around 235hp. Sure you could get a 360 with some extra power and a reasonable bit more torque but the 318s are much more common, more often a u-pull motor, and would more commonly be an item you could warranty if bad and get a better one.
Which is exactly why you said 360. It really is an apples to apples comparison since for the gear limitations typically imposed on a street car, the longer stroke larger CID engine will typically be supreme. It's exactly why Chrysler chose the 360s over 340s.
If you can get a great deal on a good 360- that's worth using. A Mag 318 is worth using. A 340 will add more value to the car than it has in the floor. '72/3 motors are cheap even though they don't actually add any less value to the car than a '71-down motor. They make a shade less power than an E58 or a Magnum 360, might be cheaper too. I'd let budget and availability dictate what I got and not care. I don't care and enjoy all of them. I've run low compression stock 318s in cars and trucks and they're entirely adequate and decent. Get fuel economy, pull anything you need to when they don't have that crappy 2bbl on them, have fantastic manners in cold weather. Same exact thing to say of 340s and 360s only they have more power doing all of it. I'd be pretty surprised if a '72/3 340 wouldn't have a pretty easy time running cheap gas but a Mag 318 is gonna do about all of that, with a good intake and carb or just a better FI intake and headers in the car it'll be a fantastic driver somewhere just on the South side of 300hp for a few hundred with a roller cam that should give no trouble.
Jplush
Well-Known Member
Again, thanks everyone. I really am just starting to love k and see what I can find around me right now and was wanting some input as to where to start. This being my first ever trek into Mopar I was hopeful my to save some headache and trouble down the way. The car was is originally a 318/automatic. I'm also in the market for a tranny too but that should be another thread. I'm kinda starting with a fresh slate here. Would $2k be a reasonable engine build budget? With past projects I've had the luxury of access to ton of SBC parts, not so much here.
Stu
Stu
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
2k is not realistic if you are starting with nothing. If you have the original 318 and 904 I would start with that.
leblanc
member 2883
If you don't race a 360 or plan to beat the crap out of it, a stock bottom end will work fine and save $$$ in the process!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A person does not have to spend 10 grand on an engine if he is only going to cruise. Mine was built cheap but has visited high revs a few times, was built on the cheap smokes tires and never said boo.
It is always a good idea to have your engine put together by a reputable shop if you have never done it yourself.
They say in carpentry to measure twice and cut once, well in automotive stuff it's measure at least three times and then assemble.
It is always a good idea to have your engine put together by a reputable shop if you have never done it yourself.
They say in carpentry to measure twice and cut once, well in automotive stuff it's measure at least three times and then assemble.
leblanc
member 2883
I have a 360 with a 904 and ran the old 7 1/4 rear for four or five years before changing to an 8 1/4 rear. Surprisingly the 7 1/4 held up that long with no problems.
It all boils down to BUDGET...a very familiar problem.
You might want to start a parts list...noting what parts you can accept as used parts (like intake manifold, etc...). Try to make your list as complete as you can with estimated prices...
Note which items are "wish list" items (like all new exhaust, etc...) and what items are mandatory.
If you have no idea on the cost of a part, Google it.
Machine shop rates vary greatly by region so a few phone calls will be in order.
It helps get your head around the project and an idea on the cocts.
Lists are free and can always be modified.
I'd stay with the 318 on your budget. You won't need motor mounts, weighted flex plate/torque converter etc...
You'll see $2000 dissappear very quickly. ....but there are tricks to doing it cheap.
Note which items are "wish list" items (like all new exhaust, etc...) and what items are mandatory.
If you have no idea on the cost of a part, Google it.
Machine shop rates vary greatly by region so a few phone calls will be in order.
It helps get your head around the project and an idea on the cocts.
Lists are free and can always be modified.
I'd stay with the 318 on your budget. You won't need motor mounts, weighted flex plate/torque converter etc...
You'll see $2000 dissappear very quickly. ....but there are tricks to doing it cheap.
Here is an example of my suggestion.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Dodge-...ash=item542bd9aef6:g:15sAAOSwZQxW6h0K&vxp=mtr
That is from LKQ which I am sure you have in your area. Comes with a 6 month warranty so you know it was a good running engine. They make the best cores. You can probably get by with a very simple re-ring and bearing job and never have to see a machine shop if you do it all yourself. For less than HALF your budget, you could have the engine done.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Dodge-...ash=item542bd9aef6:g:15sAAOSwZQxW6h0K&vxp=mtr
That is from LKQ which I am sure you have in your area. Comes with a 6 month warranty so you know it was a good running engine. They make the best cores. You can probably get by with a very simple re-ring and bearing job and never have to see a machine shop if you do it all yourself. For less than HALF your budget, you could have the engine done.
Infecteddog
Well-Known Member
I had my heads redrilled for $80 for the Mag head swap, ended up going back to Mag pattern intake. Next one I will probably try drilling a 360 smog intake. Such a cheap solution that if I could start grabbing the wiring bits needed from a 360 truck, pulling the intake, and getting a carb- that'd be a nice saving.
Is the trans absent or non-functional, or simply unknown?
Parts aren't really more expensive than an SBC. When it boils down to it your average SBCs tend to be very low power for the dollar when you're down buying stock motors. The 350s that aren't laden with smog crap and motors that aren't ancient if they've got over 150hp don't grow on trees. Your average '80s truck 360 needs a larger cam to produce superior power- unlike GMs the cream of the crop was not restricted to high-end cars or applications but was spread throughout the lines. Pretty much stay away from 2bbl and TBI 318s if you don't want to buy heads. Factory 4bbl 318s and everything else has heads that are at least worth using. I hate to be "that guy" but were your previous SBC builds more substantial than 18 second B body Impalas?
A few years ago 318s cost significantly more to get decent pistons for and their decreased value made them not much worthwhile but for a stock short/long block "bolt-ons" motor or a stroker build it'd be fine.
This is what I get so tired of seeing. People or so good at spending someone else's money. Get what you can afford. If you can afford a 340, and have it built all out, go for it. If not, go with what you can. I get it, you're wanting to build a cruiser. Not necessary to put a $10,000 motor in it. I gather from your posts, you're past is I Chevy, and that's fine. Now you're into Mopar. Get ready, more $$$'s. Do what is in your budget, to get on the road, and have fun. A teen will get the job done, a 360 probably a little better, 340 better yet. What can you afford, and what's it worth to you?
Many apologies for tiring you out with my ideas. Budget is always a main concern for me, so my recommendations usually reflect that.
The OP did ask for opinions, after all.
I will try my best to refrain from suggestions in the future.
Rusty, I'm on your side. You are the one who usually comes up with the most for the least ideas. Most of us are on a budget, and you get that.
moper
Well-Known Member
I don't think $2K will do it if you have to do a complete performance rebuild. Mopars are more expensive than any Chevy. I would not get anything from a mass rebuilder. The parts are machined poorly, lowest price point stock parts used, and the final product is beyond any further rebuilding when they sell it. Piss your money away elsewhere.
If it were me, I'd find a running 5.2L Magnum, stick a 4bbl intake and carb on it, find a running 904, and put it in. That you could do with les than $2K. You could also shop around for a running 318 engine and transmission. They can be had for well under $2K, usually rebuilt with some speed parts, and all you have to do is find one you can hear run before you buy it.
If it were me, I'd find a running 5.2L Magnum, stick a 4bbl intake and carb on it, find a running 904, and put it in. That you could do with les than $2K. You could also shop around for a running 318 engine and transmission. They can be had for well under $2K, usually rebuilt with some speed parts, and all you have to do is find one you can hear run before you buy it.
IF you're still considering a 318 AND on a budget, give this a read!
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=338351
Actually, it really applies any SBM......
I'm working on my 318 and dipped my hand into head porting for the first time. .....thanks to the thread above.
I'm on a tight budget myself. ....
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=338351
Actually, it really applies any SBM......
I'm working on my 318 and dipped my hand into head porting for the first time. .....thanks to the thread above.
I'm on a tight budget myself. ....
-
