340 with big hopes

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Remember we are talking about the mighty 340.. how much Hp did they really have from the factory.
Truly a good question and a hard one to answer acurately. Since there all old now, rebuilds of the engine are not useing the same pistons, but if you take that out of the picture and run the test, with the grain of salt of piston change, they seem to come in at or around a few ponys better.
We need a time machine!
 
moper said:
One thing to consider, with all the "ready to bolt on" heads is, they are produced quickly. ... ALL heads should be taken apart and checked by a shop that has the current machinery. The difference between a great engine, and a mediocre engine is details. This is one of them. The cost for the heads mandates the need to spend the extra $150 and make sure they are "right". At least in my mind.
So essentially you are talking about 'blueprinting' the heads to reduce/eliminate factory induced tolerance issues. I agree that is certainly a good thing to do. From your first post, it just sounded like the Edlebrock heads in specific had a inherent flaw in the valve seat area and that it must be fixed before the heads can be used.
 
So do that. then, have a good shop do the valve job (5 angle using cutters, not stones).
I have a New Way valve machine in my garage, cutters not stones. What 5 angles and how wide per angle?
 
AAAAHHHHHHHHHH, Thats the $64,000 question, it varies from builder to builder and head porter to head porter, some like radiuses and some don't. I always build engines for the need and the mods are done for the need. Per the parts used. It's a matter of preference from the builder or the engine owner. Wide seats run cooler and narrow seats run hotter, wide seats don't make as much HP as narrow seats. IMO I would follow the NHRA rule book for stock and super stock valve jobs and you'll be fine. They give it to you in some detail.



BJR Racing
 
I completely agree with Moper- I have taken apart $4000 set of "ready to run" Big Block Chevy(bad word) Brodix heads and found chunks of crap in the ports- so now I just order bare heads, and asseble them myself- especially with ELDERbrocks- their springs are just to weak for a real cam, so you just waisted money on springs, retainers, and cups you won't even use- I just built a set of ELDERbrock E-Tecs for a SBC (dont ban me :crybaby: ) and it only cost me like $200 more to assemble them myself rather than buying them complete- and their a way better set of heads (Race-Flo valves- monster Comp valvetrain, ect...)- just my $0.02
 
I know a 340 with 9.5 , small valve J heads. 242 RB cam, made 415 HP.
Clean up the X, O,s whatever ones you have. good valve job polish the chambers and go. You will be close. The iron heads will last a long time, the Eddys maybe not so long. My op. only.
 
Build a 340 like this one...4" Callies crank, small solid roller, bushed lifter bores, Pro Gram caps, Shady Dell Edelbrocks...

Bob1.jpg


Bob2.jpg
 
The x head is the best in cast iron, but too much money, try the 915 head is is great than the 587, 596.
 
hey, the chassi is what it all work on , my 63 mw cone in street trim , good tires , thru the muffers . on calif pump gas turns 11.8 and quicker as a driver to and from work to play , but when the chassi set up is wrong , it just fries the tires . weight transfer is your best friend . so my friend , you need that or your just up in smoke ! looks cool but , fast and quick don't all ways pair up . slicks can inprove tracksion , but who runs them all the time , they ware quick and get harder n harder as you heat them , less n less tracksion , each time out . pm
 
Holy thread resurrection Batman!
 
Good luck,
I got a 340 bored .040 over, pretty hot cam nothing to much
9:1 comp aries forged pistons K-1 H beam rods, reused factory forged crank and balanced it proform rockers bunch of other odds and ends
Edelbrock performer heads and intake, 650 cfm edelbrock performer carb, running hipo manifolds to accurate dual exhaust and it dynoed at 400hp and 400ft lbs with open manifolds. i think everything said and done was around 5-6k from the engine builder

Maybe 450 hp if you stroke it out. But tryin to break over 400 without spendin a lot money is hard to do unless you do all the work yourself as you can tell from above



"Wow just now realized this was a old thread smh lol"
 
Good luck,
I got a 340 bored .040 over, pretty hot cam nothing to much
9:1 comp aries forged pistons K-1 H beam rods, reused factory forged crank and balanced it proform rockers bunch of other odds and ends
Edelbrock performer heads and intake, 650 cfm edelbrock performer carb, running hipo manifolds to accurate dual exhaust and it dynoed at 400hp and 400ft lbs with open manifolds. i think everything said and done was around 5-6k from the engine builder

Maybe 450 hp if you stroke it out. But tryin to break over 400 without spendin a lot money is hard to do unless you do all the work yourself as you can tell from above



"Wow just now realized this was a old thread smh lol"
I agree home ported J's 11.0 to 1, small solid 244 @.050 tti headers and it's probably a honest 400 hp on my 360. 450hp is going to take some very good flowing heads and a big cam to make a HONEST 450hp in a little 340 and that 450hp is going to be up hi in the rpm range and not a very street friendly setup. I would have to say the vast majority of stock stroke 340/360 with ported stock heads and the usual HIPO bolt on's are UNDER 400hp!
 
Wow--2006--pomonamissel's been diggin' in the archives!

Despite the age of the thread, it's a pretty common and recurring theme: how much to make how much...

cheap fast reliable

Pick 2 of the 3...and picking "cheap" anywhere is kinda subjective anyway.
 
I agree home ported J's 11.0 to 1, small solid 244 @.050 tti headers and it's probably a honest 400 hp on my 360. 450hp is going to take some very good flowing heads and a big cam to make a HONEST 450hp in a little 340 and that 450hp is going to be up hi in the rpm range and not a very street friendly setup. I would have to say the vast majority of stock stroke 340/360 with ported stock heads and the usual HIPO bolt on's are UNDER 400hp!

That's a STRONG street 340.... And are wonderful to watch...(geared & convertered ,correctly).
 
How and why does someone dig up and comment on a 9 yr old thread. The Original Poster hasn't even had any activity since 2011 so I doubt he cares anymore.
 
..how did you arrive at 450 hp ?
..stock 340's were only 275 hp and were very quick on the street.
If this is for an A body the most economical way would be build it to stock specs with a 650 cfm carb of your choice,recurve the distributor add a 3.55 gear and have a converter built for your combo.You will have a little rocket.

..as for digging up an old post don't forget there are 30,000 members.
 
Seeing old posts revived is fine. It's a (re) growing thread.

Here's food for thought....

Copy the 360/380hp create engine and fully port the heads.
When it comes to a cam, add 6-8*'s duration with as much lift as possible or until the head flow stalls. The 360/380 create routinely dyno's north of 400hp as delivered. Adding a ported head and a cam with the valve lift to take advantage of it should do it. Adding a few more degrees of duration will insure it.

There should not be a whole lot of thought behind this since there are many good engines to ether copy or enhance. No shame in doing a copy or enhancing what someone else did.
 
OK here's my take on this iron head debacle. I myself, ported a set of X heads, bought all new Manley SS valves, Comp Beehive springs, Comp Retainers and locks, and seals. As well as, paying my machinist $300 to have new hardened exhaust seats installed, new bronze valve guides installed, cut the intake seats, and setup the valves and springs for my cam. In total I have around $1000 into my heads minus my time porting them.

A new set of bare Eddy's is about $1300. The reason I go bare is because you need to setup the springs for what your cam desires anyways and I don't like the valves that Eddy uses. Regardless of what anyone says, Eddy's still need to be checked out by a qualified machinist. You can never bolt a head on out of the box. When components are mass produced, the tolerances get skewed over time causing a lot of bad runs. Do a search on here about bad Eddy castings or machine work and you'll find a lot of unhappy people. So between the initial cost of the heads, components, and machine shop expense, You'll easily be in $1800 to $2000 for a set of properly setup Eddy's.

Another thing I want to address. I'm sure it's just a terminology issue, but there is no such thing as over scavenging. At low RPM's, with large exhaust ports and large tube headers, the velocity of the exhaust gases exiting the cylinder is low and doesn't create nearly any negative pressure in the cylinder before the piston starts on intake stroke. Higher RPM's allow for some of the intake charge to be pulled into the cylinder during valve overlap, before the piston starts its downward stroke in the cylinder. The more scavenging, the more air/fuel charge can be crammed into a cylinder. This directly relates to volumetric efficiency.
 
...So between the initial cost of the heads, components, and machine shop expense, You'll easily be in $1800 to $2000 for a set of properly setup Eddy's...

I've heard/read this from a growing number of folks on here. But don't stop at Edelbrock...any aftermarket heads...Edelbrocks are just an easy target because they probably sell the most aluminums
 
I've heard/read this from a growing number of folks on here. But don't stop at Edelbrock...any aftermarket heads...Edelbrocks are just an easy target because they probably sell the most aluminums

Agreed 100% I'm not picking on edelbrock. That was the company used by prior posters so I just used them as an example.
 
I read all I could on heads and went for these.
http://www.immengines.com/rhsheads.html

Really happy with them, just bolted them on my 340 with instant improvement and no losses at lower rpm. The machining and checking is done before they are shipped.
 
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