5.7L hemi Duster/resto.

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truck pic
 

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more truck pics........ finaly hell it took me longer to get these pics up then it did to paint my truck :banghead: lol
 

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So i have been thinking about motor mounts. Im thinking of using custom mounts welded on the frame rails. my main reason in doing so is to make it easier if i get the $$ to do an alterkation i wont have to mess with the engine



just looking on some input on this idea
 
rapidtransitric said:
how did the wiring go?
Click to expand...


got some done tonight on the wiring. Started to wire in the fuse box. hopes are that tomorrow i can get the wiring powered up and get the OBDII hooked up to the diagnostic reader to see if it communicates.
 
any one done one of these before? I got most of it figured out just not 100% sure on this its pin #12 out of the PCM C1 Black/Black connector. my schematic reads "Fused Ignition Switch Output (off-run-start)" my thoughts are that it would be fused constant power to the PCM if it was the pin #11 "Fused Ignition Switch Output run-start" that i would say that it is not constant power but only powered in the run and start positions.


just not sure on the #12 pin the only thing i find on my schematics are showing it going from C1 pin#12 to the totaly intreg. power control modual that i do not have and dont plan to use. it seams to be just a relay/fuse box to me
 
sag this is from the 06 service manual but i believe you will find the same since I think you said you were using the 05 pcm. If you were to look at the wiring diagram 8w30-2 you will see the circuit you are talking about at the bottom. You will also see two small ## signs next to 12 c1. This indicates it is only used for the 42rle transmission. I do believe you will be ok with not using it at all.
 
Im actualy using an 06. The schematic i have through all data shows it in 8w30-3 I just looked and followed it to 8w-13-18
 
8w13-18

tried to make it bigger to be able to read but couldnt
 

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toplscuda

Thanks for the help I followed the 8W30-2 and 8W30-3 and found this on 8W13-18 It looks to go from the PCM C1 conector pin#12 to the (fused ign. OFF RUN START and also to the Cluster. So i beleive you are corect in the sence that i will not need it

thanks again
 
maybe this weekend I will get a switch hooked up and see if I can conect with my scan tool and hopfully not let any of the majic smoke out...
 
When you get it done let me know. While I have went through the scmatics with colored pencil and a fine tooth comb, my harness is still in the spaghetti stage.
 
this is my bowl of spaghetti as of now. I have to eliminate more un-used wires and install a ignition switch for testing purposes. Wire up the starter relay and might need to do somthing with the park nuetral switch so the starter relay will work not to sure how that part will work yet. I just havent looked into it that far yet.... I dont have a starter yet. I have the flex plate but need to get a flywheel. Not sure what starter works best in this application.



I need to get a garage at my house so i dont have to travel 40 minutes in the opposite direction from were i work every day that i want to work on the car :banghead:
 

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Powered up my engine PCM today for first time and no smoked wires or modual :thumbrig:

Did have some codes...........kind of expected that though

codes are:

1. no DTC definition
2. EVAP vent circuit high------Dont have it wired up
3. EGR Flow sensor "A" circuit high
4. Engine oil pressure sensor/switch low voltage
5. Engine oil temp. sensor circuit high

1.The DTC code may be due to not having the transmission (TCM) modual wired to the data link connector. If thats the case its not a concern (using a STD trans.

2.The EVAP i don't plan to use and is not hooked up.

3.Will have to look into the EGR. I would like to eliminate it and i don't believe i have it wired up. Didn't get a chance to check my wires

4.&5. Didn't get a chance to look at it. Hopfully just a wire i missed or bad sensor

All and all I am very pleased with how it has come thus far, I watched my throttle position while moving the accelerator peddle and the percentage went up with the peddle movement. Also the throttle valve/butter fly did its thing (opening slightly) when i put the power in the run/start position.
 
:happy1:

Keep up the good work, would love as much information as possible on your wiring the stock computer.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
rapidtransitric said:
and you stopped there? wtf!!! times a waistin' LOL!
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haha yeah ..I figured I would stop the night on a good note. I realy need to find a starter to try to do a quick fire up on the floor to see what happens. I have a small block 4-speed bell bolted up to it now. I'm thinking the small block V8 starter may work good enough for a few fire ups. I'm going to look for that today.
 
Joe Dokes said:
:happy1:

Keep up the good work, would love as much information as possible on your wiring the stock computer.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

I will try to put some type of digraph or schematic together and post it once I make sure that everything I do and have done actually works. I don't think I'm out of the woods yet. But ill keep you all updated

thanks for the interest it helps with motivation lol
 
Im realy itching to get a flywheel and a starter to see if this beast will come alive.

I came up with a flywheel off ebay part #Mopar P5153592 about $235.00 to my door. uses a 10.5" clutch

The starter i believe would be a small block mopar starter since im going to use a A-833 4-speed..........:burnout:
Pay days just don't come often enough lol
 
Flywheel should be here tomorrow.............hope it works with my starter and if so I may try to fire it Sunday if i can find a fuel pump.
 
got the flywheel put on and hooked everything up other then a fuel pump. cranks over good. the signal for the starter relay comes from the pcm so that was nice to know that the pcm and my wiring works as it should. Im going to try to build a stand and get the fuel pump off a cavalier parts car tomarow......and if im lucky may make some power tomarow
 
One piece of advice before trying to start it is to make sure there is not corrosion in the fuel rail. When I first tried to start mine it wouldn't fire because the corrosion instantly plugged all of the injectors. I had to spend cleaning each one out by wiring a setup to open them and blowing air through backwards. Good luck I definately did a happy dance the first time mine ran.
 
thanks thats somthing i would have never thought about

good to know info
 
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