**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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Hey Louis,

Cool little build you got going! I noticed you have already plumbed the walbro pump...I know you do your research, and maybe things have changed, but I was looking at using their pumps a couple of years ago and was advised by others and by walbro themselves not to as they are very hit and miss in the low pressure situations like carburetor or nitrous...with fuel injection, not so much....I ended up with a $50 ebay holley black copy, and so far, so good...Just giving you a heads up about it, like I said I know they are popular with the fuelie guys, but from what I found not so good for carbs...Hopefully it works out for ya though as they are a nice pump!

Interested to see what it will do on not just one but two guns! Should be fun!
 
mshred said:
Hey Louis,

Cool little build you got going! I noticed you have already plumbed the walbro pump...I know you do your research, and maybe things have changed, but I was looking at using their pumps a couple of years ago and was advised by others and by walbro themselves not to as they are very hit and miss in the low pressure situations like carburetor or nitrous...with fuel injection, not so much....I ended up with a $50 ebay holley black copy, and so far, so good...Just giving you a heads up about it, like I said I know they are popular with the fuelie guys, but from what I found not so good for carbs...Hopefully it works out for ya though as they are a nice pump!

Interested to see what it will do on not just one but two guns! Should be fun!
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Yes I did my research and most of the blow thru guys on theturboforums.com use them. The threads I did find were very old where the guys had problems. The newer pumps are working out fine. There are even quite a few guys that use them NA. I found a few threads where guys say they can control the fuel pressure even down to as low as 2 PSI. This is why this pump is very popular and can support over 800HP in NA form. Remember the Regulator will bypass the fuel and keep the fuel pressure at the set PSI that your particular set up requires. Mine will be right at 5.0 - 5 1/2 PSI. My regulator is good from 4psi to 15psi.
 
Mad Dart said:
Yes I did my research and most of the blow thru guys on theturboforums.com use them. There are even quite a few guys that use them NA. I found quite a few threads where guys say they can control the fuel pressure even down to as low as 2 PSI. This is why this pump is very popular and can support over 800HP in NA form. Remember the Regulator will bypass the fuel and keep the fuel pressure at the set PSI that your particular set up requires. Mine will be right at 5.0 - 5 1/2 PSI. My regulator is good from 4psi to 15psi.
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Cool! I spoke with a couple of blowthrough guys on the bullet who said when out of boost fuel pressure numbers are low and the pumps were fine, so technically they should be good in an N/A carb setup....BUT, walbro cautioning against it had me a little wary, and with no concrete answer for it I skipped them....Mind you though, this was about 3 years ago, and I never looked on the turbo forums about. Good to know though that it should work! And they are quiet to boot compared to the louder holley's I would imagine as well
 
Louis I was looking at your rear spring hanger setup.I,ve never seen it done this way.Will you be changeing this in the future?(tube through the frame rail)or just leave it as is?
 
pettybludart said:
Louis I was looking at your rear spring hanger setup.I,ve never seen it done this way.Will you be changeing this in the future?(tube through the frame rail)or just leave it as is?
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Yeah I have never seen it like that before either. The springs are moved in more than normal and the front hangers are in more also. There is work done to this car that just makes no sense. Must have been a Chevy shop that the old owner paid to do most of this work.

If I go the Caltrac route, I will address that issue at that time. I made sure there was enough room to move the fuel pump forward and mount the hanger in the normal spot with a tube through the frame.

My goal is to get the car running for right now. I am at my wits end wrenching on cars. I need to drive one!!:D
 
Mad Dart said:
Yeah I have never seen it like that before either. The springs are moved in more than normal and the front hangers are in more also. There is work done to this car that just makes no sense. Must have been a Chevy shop that the old owner paid to do most of this work.

If I go the Caltrac route, I will address that issue at that time. I made sure there was enough room to move the fuel pump forward and mount the hanger in the normal spot with a tube through the frame.

My goal is to get the car running for right now. I am at my wits end wrenching on cars. I need to drive one!!:D
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As long as they brace the mounting points well enough, I would think having them inboard of the frame rail is just fine. They were originally designed to be mounted next to the frame by the engineers 50 years ago...just on the other side of the frame.

I've never been a big fan of the "hack a huge chunk out of your frame rail" method for inboard spring location, and I've planned to mount mine just inboard of the rails on my next A-body. The front mounts would be built as part of a fabricated cross member that is heavily gusseted to the frame, incorporate a built-in drive shaft loop, and have the front spring mounting points a little higher up in the car for better ride height. Either diagonals or an x-brace off the main hoop of the cage would meet the floor right above the front spring eye location - where the force is applied upward into the structure.

The rear would also have a gusseted cross member, as well as the mounting point moved up and using a slider instead of a shackle. Although probably overkill for the rear spring mount, a small diagonal brace would tie this cross member to the rear bars of the cage.

I probably wouldn't be able to use a stock gas tank with this method, but I didn't plan to anyway.



edit: After taking another good look at the under car pics, it appears to have the spring hangars inline with the frame, so my detailed explanation was pointless. Or am I seeing it right?

But one thing about the pic of the rear shackle in post #81 bothers me. Why did he mount it so low, in effect raising the ride height, and then use lowering blocks? Weird...
 
Well today I worked on the car for 7 Hours straight with no break.
Got all the fuel/return lines in and ran all the way to the carb. Fuel tank is in and plumbed up. I would much rather make up an fittings with stainless line all day long. This hard tubing is a PITA to work with. I would have been done 4 hours earlier if I did it with braided line and an fittings.
I still need to install the filler neck and the vent tube and complete a little bit of wiring. I hope to fire it off tomorrow at some point.
 
451Cuda said:
edit: After taking another good look at the under car pics, it appears to have the spring hangars inline with the frame, so my detailed explanation was pointless. Or am I seeing it right?

But one thing about the pic of the rear shackle in post #81 bothers me. Why did he mount it so low, in effect raising the ride height, and then use lowering blocks? Weird...
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They are under the frame rail because they moved them in past center of the frame rail. Probably about 1 " more than they should be, I'm telling you a Chevy shop did this work.
Yes the springs are under the rail and they used a bigger than normal block to get the car to sit where it is. It would be less work for me to just have the springs de arched than to cut the front and rear hangers out and build new ones. I'm not up to that task.... Today anyways. Get me on the right day and ill cut the whole damn car up! Lol:D
 
Looking good Louis!

On a side note the NHRA rulebook states that the fule line needs a frame rail or like structure between the fuel line and the driveline until it reaches forward of the flywheel. So in your case the fuel line should be in the frame rail or outside (curbside) the rail until it passes the fire wall. The regulator can't be mounted to the firewall per the rule book. Sorry I was late to this discussion. Most tracks wont catch the fuel line but the regulator is a red flag.
 
turbodart68 said:
Looking good Louis!

On a side note the NHRA rulebook states that the fule line needs a frame rail or like structure between the fuel line and the driveline until it reaches forward of the flywheel. So in your case the fuel line should be in the frame rail or outside (curbside) the rail until it passes the fire wall. The regulator can't be mounted to the firewall per the rule book. Sorry I was late to this discussion. Most tracks wont catch the fuel line but the regulator is a red flag.
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Yeah I figured. Most guys run their fuel lines inside the frame rail and almost everyone's fuel lines pass by the flywheel. Like I stated earlier almost all have this problem one way or the other unless you enter the engine bay from inside the fender well from outside the frame rail. This obviously would be the safest way for all of us to do it....

I said to myself they can kiss my ***!!
From the late "EZ E" LOL :mrgreen:
 
Chris, I think they changed that part of the rule book. You can't route inside the driveline tunnel. If that includes any area between the frame rails, I've (and many others) been doing and getting away with naughty stuff for 30+ years.

The latest RB I saw said that it had to be encased in .125 pipe for 16" through the FW area.

Do Mopars actually have a flywheel when running an auto?

I had that discussion with the tech guys before, we don't.... ever see a converter on a 10.00 or slower mopar detonate? I haven't. The problem with these rules is they are too general to fit every car make design.

The cars that have aluminum line in the inner fender wells should not pass tech, you aren't suppose to have fuel lines in the tire areas. Our unibody cars are a PIA to get fuel lines run in a "legal" manner if not running steel braided line
 
nice work. looks good. id like to see pics of your tube work. -An lines and stuff. I'm going ape **** with AN stuff on my car. LOL
 
Louis, just wondering as I can't tell by looking- do those rear wheels have rim screws or beadlocks, or some sort of beadlock ring? It doesn't look like real beadlocks, but almost like some ring with screws in it based on the pics...Just curious
 
mshred said:
Louis, just wondering as I can't tell by looking- do those rear wheels have rim screws or beadlocks, or some sort of beadlock ring? It doesn't look like real beadlocks, but almost like some ring with screws in it based on the pics...Just curious
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I havent really looked at them yet. I do know whoever balanced them put weights on the outside of the wheels on the good looking shiny part of them. There is also no steel stems. I will be popping all the wheels off the car and having them re balanced "Inside" and chrome steel stems on all of them.
 
Looks good, although my only concern is over time that vent filter might get caked with crap from the tire as it gets kicked up from the road. Whether it really affects anything is another question...probably not?

The hard line looks great. I would add a couple straps to the longer sections to limit the road vibration. I had one crack at the filter inlet and start leaking fuel while ten miles from home, and only reason I knew was a cop saw it and pulled me over. Instead of just letting me fix it with a rubber line, he called the frickin HAZMAT truck, and I had to standby and watch as they drained all my gas and yanked on the fuel line like morons.

And with another look at that rear shackle mount, it looks weak. Depending how well it was welded, I think it may start cracking the welds and pulling away from the frame with enough hard launches. But you already plan to fix it, so once again I'm just rambling on about things that don't matter. :D
 
451Cuda said:
Looks good, although my only concern is over time that vent filter might get caked with crap from the tire as it gets kicked up from the road. Whether it really affects anything is another question...probably not?

The hard line looks great. I would add a couple straps to the longer sections to limit the road vibration. I had one crack at the filter inlet and start leaking fuel while ten miles from home, and only reason I knew was a cop saw it and pulled me over. Instead of just letting me fix it with a rubber line, he called the frickin HAZMAT truck, and I had to standby and watch as they drained all my gas and yanked on the fuel line like morons.

And with another look at that rear shackle mount, it looks weak. Depending how well it was welded, I think it may start cracking the welds and pulling away from the frame with enough hard launches. But you already plan to fix it, so once again I'm just rambling on about things that don't matter. :D
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Everyone only looks at the pictures..... LOL

Here is a quote from my post #115

Here are some pictures of what I got done. I still need to secure the tubing so don't go all nutz on me just yet.

Also the fuel line is ABOVE the alternator by at least 5". The picture is deceiving.
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Yeah a car is just about never done. I posted earlier when I started this thread that there are a few shady things done under this car. I for sure at one point or another will MAD DARTerize it all! :burnout:

As far as that filter goes. It will be fine. I don't drive in the rain or on dirt roads. The filter cost $3.00 so if it gets all jacked up I will just replace it.

I just ordered 3 more delivered for $11.37 ..........

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120977735975?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 
I must have missed what you said about securing the line, sorry about that.

The filter I didn't figure it was likely to be that big of a deal, like I said. I'm just anal and can't leave **** alone until it's perfect.
 
451Cuda said:
The lines in the engine bay looked great.

I was referring to the hard aluminum line that runs along the frame connector. Road vibration will make it crack eventually if it's allowed to flex and move.

The filter I didn't figure it was likely to be that big of a deal, like I said. I'm just anal and can't leave **** alone until it's perfect.
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Yes I know what you are referring to. I have the rubberized clamps to take care of the hard line. I knew some of you anal retentive guys would catch it is why I put a blurb not to give me any chizzle about them....... LOL

I am also going to slit some rubber hose and zip tie it over the tubing in a few areas where there is a concern of the hard line rubbing anything before I clamp it all down. This will all be done after I fire the fuel system up and verify there are no leaks.

I am going to dump 10 gallons into the tank at some point and disconnect the line at the carb, extend it into a gas can and then fire up the pump to bleed the system and clean it out. Prob run 5 gallons through it. Then I will filter that gas and dump it back into the tank.
 
Mad Dart said:
Yes I know what you are referring to. I have the rubberized clamps to take care of the hard line. I knew some of you anal retentive guys would catch it is why I put a blurb not to give me any chizzle about them....... LOL

I am also going to slit some rubber hose and zip tie it over the tubing in a few areas where there is a concern of the hard line rubbing anything before I clamp it all down. This will all be done after I fire the fuel system up and verify there are no leaks.

I am going to dump 10 gallons into the tank at some point and disconnect the line at the carb, extend it into a gas can and then fire up the pump to bleed the system and clean it out. Prob run 5 gallons through it. Then I will filter that gas and dump it back into the tank.
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Dammit you quoted me before I edited, :D
 
Ok went and got 12 Gallons of fuel. Filled the tank and extended the fuel feed line from the carb to a gas jug. Turned on the pump and in less than 20 seconds it was starting to flow fuel into the jug. All was good and I found only 1 leak. It was at the bottom of the regulator at the return fitting..... Some stupid guy forgot to tighten up the fitting all the way. What a dummy. Took it apart, inspected it, cleaned it all back up, tightened it up an absolutely no leaks at all. I hope I can say the same thing in the morning. So as of now there is 12 gallons in the tank.

I forgot to mention that I messed with the fuel pressure and when turning it down it would hold at 2psi and very steady. I increased it to 4.5 PSI initially and I will fine tune it when I get it started. The Eddy 1406 Carb supposedly only likes a max of 5 to 5.5 PSI or the seat cant hold it and floods the bowl.

Tomorrow I will tackle the minor wiring issues and try to get the tires re balanced with steel stems.
 
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