**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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moparlover said:
she's a pretty car! nice bro

my guess on the vibe... same as yours, probably damper/crank/flexplate/tq conv mismatch somewhere. what year is the block?

it would be nice if you had a spare gas tank around, that one is probably pretty nasty up inside.

but man, that is a nice Scamp!
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The 340 is a 1973. I havent got there but after I messed with the timing and carb tuning for some reason I did not notice it today. Weird. It is on Jacks now so I will investigate it further.

As far as the gas tank goes it is TOAST. It is leaking everywhere not bad enough to drip on the ground, just seeping out and evaporating so I am ordering a new one. I will add the sump myself. My whole shop smells like a gas station real bad it gets irritating and stuck in my nostrils. Yuck.

Someone cut off the Return and the Feed on the sending unit and just packed it with JB Weld. There is also JB Weld around where the twist lock is and it is leaking there too.
 
Na... If it works and has some decent shocks on it, it should be OK. Not great, but definitely workable.
 
Mad Dart.....Great to see the Scamp made its trek safely to a new home. It looks pretty bitchin' from here.

Sorry that you have to deal with a few things that've been butchered. Oh well, I'm confident you can get it fixed & safe real soon!!


crackedback said:
3400 pound SS springs
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What's the difference between the 456-7 SS springs & the 002-3 SS springs? Is is just the pound rating........?
 
heres those pics
 

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Took the fuel tank out of the car.... All I can say is WTF?? People to some very shitty work is all I can say. I will be cleaning up a few items under the car that are just not up to standard.

I am surprised that the car did not catch on fire with how bad it leaked fuel from every place a hose or fitting was connected. The vent was not hooked up "Found that out the hard way with a full tank of gas" and was leaking like a water hose.

The Vent bolt was missing in the Housing and the Rear Diff was pretty low on fluid. I fixed both of these issues. A shock bolt is missing in the trunk?? I don't understand that one.

I did order everything. New Fuel pump "GSL-392 Inline" The GSL 392 is good for 800HP in NA Form, Mallory FPR #1407M For future Blow thru boost Ref If I decide to go that route, filters, Hose, fittings etc. The tank, sending unit, straps etc will be here tomorrow so I will start the modification for the sump and return line, the SUMP & all other parts are already here. I got new gauges for under the dash too. I will also be installing a Wide Band 02 Sensor and a B&M Quicksilver Shifter. I also got new trunk springs & Blocks so the stick is GONE. Polyurethane Motor Mount bushing are on the way too. I will make my own torque strap. I need to get this car back on the road by next weekend!!
 
The new tank came today so I installed the sump. It took 4 hours to install the sump and test it for leaks. I had 2 pin holes so I fixed them and now the tank does not leak at all. Damn I am getting slower as I get older. The 8an return line bung I will weld in tomorrow and then seal the sump inside and out with Norther Fuel Tank Sealer.
 
It looks like in this picture the heavier/thicker spring is on the left side. I was thinking it would normally be on the right side. Might want to double check they are installed on the correct side. Car stance looks really good being lowered right now, you going to pull out the blocks?
 

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zhandfull said:
It looks like in this picture the heavier/thicker spring is on the left side. I was thinking it would normally be on the right side. Might want to double check they are installed on the correct side. Car stance looks really good being lowered right now, you going to pull out the blocks?
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Thicker spring Pak is on tbe passenger side.
I have another set of springs on the shop floor that are set up 1.5"
Lower than stock. Pinion angle shim should set it where it
Is now I'm hoping.
 
Mad Dart said:
Well what I am going to do is pull the Turbo stuff off of the Stroker motor I have and change the Intake Manifold to the M1 and put a Carb on it so it will run NA. Yesterday I ordered the M1 port matched to Brian's RHS Heads he did for that motor. He is knocking down and making the plenum transition to the runners smooth. Anyone who has ran an M1 knows the Plenum is junk out of the box.

I will be ordering up a 2 stage NOS Kit to top it off. The 904 in the car already has a Billet front drum, 5 clutch pack, Koleens, bolt in Sprague etc. It has a 3000-3500 stall in it also and a 391 gear. I can always add a TBrake if need be. If the trans don't hold up I will put the full out 727 that I have behind it that has all the goodies ready to go.

The NOS system will have its own dedicated fuel pump "Walbro GSL-392" and 2 Gallon Fuel cell mounted where the Battery Tray use to be. This will be filled with 110VP Fuel that I can buy out of the pump at my local truck stop fuel station. Pump Premium will be on tap in the regular fuel tank.

The car has a MP version of the MSD box already in it. I will either get a NOS Retard for the current set up or run a Digital 6 box. But I think the Digital 6 only has a single stage for NOS. I will verify.

Again, I am going to do my best with the pre planning and having all the parts etc on site so it is a Weekend swap.:burnout:
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You already run a drop base air cleaner? I know of one that will give an extra inch of drop, if that would help.
 
451Cuda said:
You already run a drop base air cleaner? I know of one that will give an extra inch of drop, if that would help.
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Yes it has a drop base on it. It has the snorkel hood scoop on it and there is a cut out for the air cleaner so I should be fine. I have a couple other drop bases on my shelf if I recall correctly.
 
I worked on the car for 5 hours today.... I am setting world records lately!! haaa Anyway I got the sump installed and the Return line provision welded in. I tig welded a 1/2" Stainless Steel tube on the back of the bung and brought so it's about 3/4" off the bottom of the tank. This should help with foaming of the fuel.

The cars fuel system was all screwed up so I ripped the whole damn thing out and started over. The vent was never hooked up and it did not have a spot for one at all so I am making one...... you will see when I am done. Pictures tell the tail of what I am going to do.

I also got the shock bolts in the trunk fixed. I still can't believe one was missing..... Weird

I stole Crackedback's idea and drilled the frame for the Main Fuel line and return so they are tucked up under the frame all the way down the car. That was a Job drilling and filing the cross member. I got it all cleaned up and will weld them in tomorrow. Missing a few more parts but I am looking good so far for running the car by Saturday. We will see.

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Love that fuel line idea, may have to use it as well.


Also, this is the base I was talking about:

Ran a 4" element under a flat hood in my 440 fastback with it. Easiest way to find it is ask for air cleaner assembly for 1970 Corvette LT-1 at Chevy dealer. Only works with Holley 4150/4160 carbs.

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Ah - the joys of buying something that pissed off someone enough that they sold it...lol.
At least you're going through it - which is the right way to do it. I think it will still end up a lot cheaper buying a partially messed with but complete car. It reminds me of "Crankenstein". My buddy's '76 Scamp. Same color, same interior and colors, no scoop or mini tubs - but a 360 stick car with the grille and bumpers blacked out. Have a blast in it!
 
is that the summt racing sump for the tank?i got mine from jegs and it is about half as wide...nice job on finding all the mickey mouse crap that was done to it.now put a big *** shot on it with that engine and see if it was built right lol.cool car man.....:glasses7:
 
moper said:
Ah - the joys of buying something that pissed off someone enough that they sold it...lol.
At least you're going through it - which is the right way to do it. I think it will still end up a lot cheaper buying a partially messed with but complete car. It reminds me of "Crankenstein". My buddy's '76 Scamp. Same color, same interior and colors, no scoop or mini tubs - but a 360 stick car with the grille and bumpers blacked out. Have a blast in it!
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Yes it for sure will be a cheaper/faster process in the long run. Paint and Interior work are not cheap and they seem to hold you hostage, especially in the body work & paint department.

zhandfull So whats the plan on the engine swap? Before MATS or after?
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No way before MATS. I will be pushing it to have the car in good running condition before then. I want to go through everything before I throw some big power at it. I found some Electrical wiring that I need to trace and make sure there are no splices in the wrong areas like under the carpet and stuff. I just don't trust anyones work....... I believe the previous owner paid people to work on this car. I can tell because there was "NO Thought" as to how things were done. I need to go over everything and inspect it with my own eyes and make the necessary fixes to be 100% sure the car is safe first.

The swap will happen an I have most everything to complete it. New Intake "M1" Port matched to Brians RHS Heads. I had him do some work on the Plenum transition area to get the transition all massaged in. TTI Headers, 1 NOS System "Cheater 150-250 Plate". I still need to purchase a Fogger for the second system and a Double Pumper. I may just hit it with the 1 system and get the other system later. Anyway the swap should be all done before Spring Fling.

bad440, is that the summt racing sump for the tank?i got mine from jegs and it is about half as wide...nice job on finding all the mickey mouse crap that was done to it.now put a big *** shot on it with that engine and see if it was built right lol.cool car man.....
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Yes it is the sump from Summit "Competition Engineering", it was a lil bit crooked at the fittings but it was easy to straighten out. There for sure is ALOT of Mickey Mousing done on this car. I am investigating everything. There are some mysterious wires that go from the trunk to the front of the car so I will be pulling the back seat and tracing them all the way to where they go. Also there was NO Relay for the previous Fuel Pump and the Power wire is VERY Small and no way up to the task. I will be adding a Bosch Relay and a 20amp fuse to the system so it will be done right. The battery is in the trunk so I will just run a new thicker trigger wire of the ignition to turn on the relay. The relay will be mounted most likely behind the battery out of site.
NOS is for sure on the way but I will be Hitting the 410 Stroker with it...... Not the Lil 340. The Stroker is all forged, Cometic Gaskets and Studs on the heads and mains. This is the engine that I had the mains and cam tunnel line bored. It is the smoothest spinning engine I have built to date. I don't think I will build another engine without line boring the cam tunnel. It makes a HUGE Difference.
 
As usual,nice work Louis.I knew you,d be changing a bunch of stuff on the car to your liking.Good luck with your goal for saturday,might have to put in some overtime but we know you,ll get it done.Ofcourse we,ll need lots of pics from your trip to the MATS.:D
 
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