**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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And the games begin! I think I have been here before?? Lol

I should have it all tore down by tomorrow night~

The body line is set at ride height + 10"... I set the rear down 2" more than it was and the front down 1 " from where it was. It should be in the ball park once it is back on the ground.

I will be checking it with a laser and getting it dead nuts before setting the Ladder bar in the car. The Laser will also be shot front to back for a true centerline. Lines will be snapped on the ground and sprayed over with clear lacquer so they don't disappear. Everything will be built using the lines to square up the car.

FYI what is in the car now is WAY off so I can not use the leafs nor the attachment points from what is there from the previous owner...... It is all catiwampus! LOL

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Just bought a 1350 Billet Trans Yoke from Mancini's.

I hope to have a length for the driveshaft on Saturday. At that time I will order one up from the same guy that built my last one. 1350 on both ends.
 
junior636 said:
Looks like it's time for some fun! Remember, measure twice, cut once :)
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Only twice?? Your good!! Lol.... More like 10 for me! I should have the fuel system and the complete rear end out of the car by tomorrow. Then comes the fun part. We should be able to have it tacked and up in the car on Saturday fairly easy is my thought...... I need it done so I can get the measurements and order the new driveshaft and aluminum gas tank.
 
I would say the biggest pain is cutting the stock shock mounting point out to make clearance for the coilovers. That thing is pretty thick and has about 2 million spot welds holding it together.
 
junior636 said:
I would say the biggest pain is cutting the stock shock mounting point out to make clearance for the coilovers. That thing is pretty thick and has about 2 million spot welds holding it together.
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I have a back brace on mine. I think I will have to actually move that rear section back a bit and add in a strip of metal kind like the Mini tub to get the top of the shock to clear.

It looks like your shocks are tilted in at the top toward the driver compartment? I don't know if tilting mine forward will get it done so I don't have to move that section back and then add that strip of metal. We will see.

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I actually cut that section out thinking the same thing, my shocks are pretty much straight up and down,they might be tilted 1/2 degree or so, they just barely touch that section at the top. It was a lot easier to remove that shock brace with the section out though.
 
Well, I think for sure with the back brace I will have to move that section in the trunk back to clear the upper part of the shock. I was thinking about it and I may just notch where the shock goes and just build another section the length of the tray to cover it up. My trunk has a mat so whatever I do will not be noticeable.

I did get the fuel tank, fuel lines, Nos Hose, Bottle, Driveshaft, exhaust, parking brake cables & shocks off the car this morning. The rear end will get taken out most likely tonight. 4 bolts and 1 brake drop line and it is on the floor complete with the leafs still attached!

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More progress. I got the Ladder bar under the car. Since I am using the 32" Ladder Bar. I don't think I will need to cut the floor at all, not even under the rear seat. I have it sitting in the weeds and I have 2.5" clear from the floor to where the ladder bar would think about hitting.

Before I go ape **** welding it in the car I am going to have Pete look at it and sign off on it! Lol

Right now the rear fender lip would be 2" over the wheel so it is dumped pretty good. I have it set at 3* down on the front of the ladder bar. The rear tray will need to be moved back about 3" so the top of the shock will clear. I have lines snapped everywhere on the ground and under the rear shock tray for cutting. I have not cut anything as of yet..... Except all the butcher brackets and tabs from the previous owner. I cleaned it up pretty good and got rid of everything that is not needed under the car except the rear shackle butcher brackets.... I got to remove my fuel pump then those POS things are gone too.

I also went to the metal yard today and picked up the material for the new trunk floor and the drop down hidden spare tire gizzzzmooo I will be building for the trailer.

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Little more progress. I mocked it all up and got my new Driveshaft length. So I will call and order that tomorrow.

There is plenty of room to run the exhaust to the back of the car if I want even with the Track Locator in there. I will probably just dump it at the rear axle though. I decided to use the fuel cell that I have. It is 23.5 Gallons and will work well when I make the switch to E85 in the near future. When it goes back together with the new trunk floor I will be making the necessary changes under the new trunk floor for Dual Walbro GSL-392 Fuel Pumps so when I make the swap to E85 it is already done. 2 of those pumps will handle it without a doubt.

Tomorrow Pete will be here in the morning and we should have most of it all done besides the Fuel System. That is the plan anyway.

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How low is that cross-member? Did you angle it back some? Looks like it's going to be the lowest point of the car.
 
junior636 said:
How low is that cross-member? Did you angle it back some? Looks like it's going to be the lowest point of the car.
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It's not welded in yet and in the pics it's probably an inch or so low. I could make another one. It can actually go straight across with almost no bend in it.

Or I can slice the floor and shove it up further as well. We will see how it goes tomorrow when my chassis builder friend Pete gets here in the morning.
 
Finally it is in the car and all welded off. I will be replacing the complete floor in the trunk. The Cross member is in the trunk and the shocks are under it.

I will be ordering my new drive shaft on Monday or even tomorrow if he answers the phone.

I did not need to cut the floor anywhere. The cross member is 5.25" off the ground at ride height. The K member will be the same. I will have to pull up on the front bumper to get a jack under it.

It is getting there but no cigar just yet.

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Looks good! What are the tubes going forward off the cross member? From the pics i can't tell if it's a gusset tube or maybe you tied the frame that way?
 
junior636 said:
Looks good! What are the tubes going forward off the cross member? From the pics i can't tell if it's a gusset tube or maybe you tied the frame that way?
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Those tubes go from the cross member back to the frame connector.

Right now I'm deciding if I will sink the fuel cell into the new trunk floor or only have the sump section come throug it. If i do sink it, it would only be to the bottom of the frame rail.

Funny when we got done with this part yesterday, Pete says well let's stert on the parachute mount.... I just startied laughing.....We never talked about it til that minute. Lol! 1 thing leads to another.
 
Your car has a nice clean look. I would avoid having the sump and fuel lines visable from the back of the car if it was me.
 
Driveshaft is ordered. Fuel parts are ordered to make up the Dual Walbro GSL-392 Fuel System so I am ready for e85.

Exhaust parts are up next.
 
crackedback said:
Looks good!

You call Curtis again?
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Thanks! Yes he said I should have it by Friday. $225.00 Delivered to my door. 3.5" .083 wall with 1350 U Joints. The billet trans yoke was the same price from Mancini! Lol

I asked him about the power handling and he said he has guys with 1250 HP to the tires with the same unit and they have yet to break one. He has nothing but good said about his stuff all over the net. Glad you sent me his contact info.

I took the other shaft out that he built me with the 7260's and 4" tube and inspected the ends and U Joints real good. They are like the day I put them in. Those baby U Joints are pretty damn strong is all I can say. There is a lot of trash talk about them but I know now first hand that they will handle some **** foooooo shoooo! :D
 
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