8 3/4 rear end confusion

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340 RR

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Hello guys, I was re-doing the brakes on my 1973 roadrunner with a 340 and I ended up doing the inner axle seals as well. As you guys know, the axles have to come out and I was in the process of putting the driver's side axle back but it will not seat completely. I have done some research and believe that I have a sure grip dif and that there are 2 sets of splines in a sure grip. I also did not replace the bearing with the "green bearing", it is the original one that I kept and lubed up. I feel the axle go into the first set of splines but then it won't go in any further. The studs just barely begin to go through their respective holes on the axle end so it doesn't need to go in much further. When I go to spin the axle, I can't spin it by hand even though the rear end is off the ground. The trans is auto. What should I try first? I know that sure grips are tough to spin in general but would it help to put the trans in neutral? Should I put a pry bar in between the studs with a couple of the lug nuts on and attempt to spin the axle slightly while applying force inwards? One more thing, the passenger side axle is off. Should I try to put that one back in first or will it not make a difference? I appreciate everyone's help!
 
See if you can get one of the axels in, maybe the passenger side install, rotate the axel that was installed a little using a wheel or prybar like you suggested.
On the side you are installing use a 2x4 or something softer than steel against the center of the axel and give it a couple of whacks, it should seat itself.
 
Is your automatic transmission in neutral? Or is it in park? Because if it’s in park the driveshaft won’t turn, the transmission is locked with a metal pawl.
 
It’s in park and I know the driveshaft won’t turn but wouldn’t the axles still be able to spin?
 
Oh okay so if it’s a sure grip then it would have to be in neutral for the rear axles to spin? Didn’t know that, thanks.
 
So should I put it in neutral and spin the rear end to try to line up the secondary splines?
 
So should I put it in neutral and spin the rear end to try to line up the secondary splines?

I’d put it in neutral and have someone rock the driveshaft back and forth a bit when you’re sliding the axle in. Might take some fiddling to get them lined up again.

Also, before you get carried away, have you checked to see if the thrust button is still in place?
 
Get a good light and shine it in. See what you are fighting before hammering away at it. Like Blue said.. make sure that your thrust block hasn't moved and possibly dropped across the spine area.
 
Bolt the tire back on the axle without the drum, it will give you more leverage to turn when trying to seat into the splines.
 
Does it have the adjuster on one side I know on my the axle adjuster is supposed to go in the passenger side if I'm not mistaken
 
Be sure that the inner seal is fully installed. If not fully installed the seal will hit the bearing retainer and prevent full installation.
 
Thank you everyone for the replies! I will first shine a light to make sure that the thrust button hasn't interfered with the splines. I will then get the car into neutral and have someone move the driveshaft around while I try to wiggle the axle into place. Mounting the tire back on for leverage is a good idea. I read somewhere that the inner seal face should be 1 11/16 inches from the axle housing flange. Mine was not that far in so I hit it further in and I think it is now sitting against the ridge which is correct. I also measured and it is right around 1 11/16in away. I used a socket that was a bit smaller than the 2in socket I used at first to hit the seal in, just cuz the 2in I had was rubbing against the inside of the axle housing and I didn't want to scratch it up but now I think the inner part of the seal is further in than the outer part, because of the smaller socket. I hope that doesn't cause an issue. I'll let you guys know. Thanks again!!
 
If you have stock sure grip in a '73, it should be the cone type sure grip. Those don't have a clutch pack to get out of alignment. If you have the clutch type sure grip and the clutch plates turned to where you can't install the axle shaft, the clutches are worn out and need to be replaced. Same goes with the equalizer spacer. The clutch type one comes with two buttons and a roll pin holding them in place. Those pins are commonly broken and the buttons can fall out and jam things, or, fall into the bottom of the housing and the end play can't be adjusted correctly requiring you to pull the third member to retrieve them. The cone type spacer is one piece and can fall out. I suspect you just didn't install the seal correctly and the bearing is hitting it short of where it needs to be when fully seated.
 
Do not hammer on anything that is a slide in fit. If it doesn't go, you are doing something wrong.
Get your Factory Service Manual out guys.
I you don't have one , you shouldn't be doing any service on your car.
Here is the link for a free one.
It will answer 90% of the questions that you will see on these sites about doing different services and repairs.
The dealer mechanics used these manuals at the Dealer.

MyMopar
 
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When I had this issue on my challenger I reached out to Dr. Diff, this is what he wrote me and it worked perfectly then and has worked since.

On Sat, Apr 14, 2018 at 10:35 AM Cass Eslick <[email protected]> wrote:
I assume you are running an OEM cone sure-grip? If so, the cluth hub spline is probably mis-aligned with the side gear spline on one side.

Ater installing one axle and wheel, put that side back on the ground. Twist the other axle with a crow-bar between the lug studs until both sets of internal splines line up.

This is a trial and error procedure.
 
Thank you guys for the replies, I do believe it is just an issue with lining up the secondary splines. Here are pics of the wheel seal, don't know if they're good enough to help y'all decide whether I did it right or not but I think it's good.

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