A question that I am not sure how to even ask...

Slant 6 Engines

  1. TXDart

    TXDart Well-Known Member

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  2. TXDart

    TXDart Well-Known Member

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    Try remove a push rod and I bet it is covered in oil if the drains over the cam are clogged.(use a push rod as a dipstick so to speak)
     
  3. oldkimmer

    oldkimmer FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    .......I fail to see how this motor could be clogged if it was running good b4 the oil change...it had 2 b pumping oil then...........kim....
     
  4. amoparacer

    amoparacer Well-Known Member

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    Try running a coat hanger up through the drain plug hole of the oil pan. There is know way 7 quarts of oil are hiding. I think the oil is in the lifter area where the push rods are. The drain holes to the pan are blocked down where the lifter bores are. Its large enough in there to hold 5 or six quarts of oil.
     
  5. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for doubting the OP's sincerity. We just see so many "fly by's" who disappear without a conclusion that I wondered.

    TXDart has the best idea for the missing oil. If it is a 1962 170 engine (3 core plugs on side of block), the pushrods go thru big cavities in the head, enough to stick your hand down and pull out the lifters. If the OP sees the 7 qt of oil sitting in those cavities, that explains things, and should be easy to clean out the drain holes. As for the milky stuff, that will take more investigation to see if a serious issue with coolant leakage.
     
  6. Dartnut

    Dartnut Don't hate me because i'm beautiful

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    When you pull the engine and disassemble it, you will find the problem as well as the others that are obvious already.
    The engine needs a thorough cleaning and a rebuild.
     
  7. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't pull it just yet. I have seen much gunkier engines. If the compression measures good, the oil pressure is fine, and it makes no deep, clunky sounds under throttle, it is probably perfectly good. If it proves out, I would jack it up a bit, remove the oil pan, and wash the topside good w/ kerosine (diesel) or gasoline (don't smoke) until shiny, and wash all the carbon and crud down, clean the oil pickup screen. Force clean oil thru the passages using a small garden sprayer attached to the oil sender port (I do this on engines that sat for years) to wash any grit out of the rockers. Then bolt back w/ new gaskets.
     
  8. The DC

    The DC Well-Known Member

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    I think that your right about cleaning out the pick up screen.

    After I pulled the cover and photoed it I went to a wyfy bar to send it. When I got home, just to be sure, I pulled the oil plug again and...


    Black gold!


    Somehow the removal of the valve cover let the oil spill down, maybe the pressure change or movement dislodged the stoppage.

    To test this, I poured 48 ounces over the vales and they went right through as if nothing was unusual.

    I'm going to put the cover back on with a new gasket so I dropped by here to send you the note. My oil collector got it all, so the oil's accounted for [6 1/2 quarts].

    Now I have to look into the screen to clean that out and then look at the core plug problem that RustyRatRod explained. I cant afford a rebuild so I'll have to find another solution. 64ragtop asked about coolant on the valves but that was just the flare of a cheap digital camera. The oil looks clean inside and there's not much sludge to find.

    So thanks for the feedback. I'm off to buy some dowel rods to set the valve cover gasket and I'll pour another 4+5 with it on to see if there are any leaks I had missed before.

    Thanks!

    Be back as soon as I'm in wyfy range...
     
  9. The DC

    The DC Well-Known Member

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    Good advice.

    I'll look at pulling the pan in a few days after I get the valve cover reseated.

    You are correct; she doesn't smoke much, runs smooth until this point, no knocking sounds, save the solid lifter chattering of course, but I do have that one core plug problem mentioned before, although there was no evidence of serious leakage yet.

    Thanks and i'll get to that oil screen!
     
  10. The DC

    The DC Well-Known Member

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    Thanks much!
     
  11. 64ragtop

    64ragtop Well-Known Member

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    Congratulations! Plenty of advice here on giving it the best internal cleanup you can without pulling the engine.
    Carry on, and check back.

    BC
     
  12. Idaho

    Idaho FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Hope to see what comes out during cleanup.
    I'm thinking a family of mice :)
     
  13. GEO

    GEO Sarcasm Inc.

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    A solid lifter motor like this will run with almost no oil
     
  14. The DC

    The DC Well-Known Member

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    Thanks much for the help.

    Not enough $ for a full tear down and I'll still need a pair of rocker panels [the only rust in the car!!!

    Got more oil today to do another test.

    Most appreciated,

    The DC
     
  15. The DC

    The DC Well-Known Member

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    Oh!

    Thanks to the administrator for offering this forum!
     
  16. The DC

    The DC Well-Known Member

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    I'm adding a thread about my valve cover gasket placement technique, since I was asked, as a thank you for helping me chase this down!

    Slainte!
     
  17. spikekid999

    spikekid999 MOPAR OR NO CAR!!!

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    My fathers intrepid engine was so gummed the the cam broke after the seconded lobe on his way home from work one day, it just dotted like someone turned the key off. There was so much sludge on the valve covers you could scoop it out of the valve covers with a spoon like ice cream
     
  18. Coronet 500

    Coronet 500 Well-Known Member

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    I have taken a gallon of WD40 and primed it through an engine, emptied and primed with some decent used oil then filled with new oil. This worked well and cleaned up this oil through pushrod engine.
     
  19. The DC

    The DC Well-Known Member

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    I have heard some suggestions involving using kerosine to clean it out.

    Thoughts?
     
  20. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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    They used to sell quarts of "motor flush" at auto parts, which was basically kerosene if you read the ingredients. You drained your oil while hot, filled a quart of that and let the engine idle for a few minutes. I did that in my 69 Dart slant (dumF kid then) and maybe a month later the oil light came on while driving cross-country. I now think that gunk clogged the pickup screen. Today, most I would do is fill the pan with kerosene, but not start the engine, and let is sit for a week, maybe with a heater under the pan, then drain.
     
  21. RedFish

    RedFish Well-Known Member

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    In my experience, if an engine has more than 60 thousand miles on it, once coolant or fuel gets into the oil system, the bottom end will come apart within 12 thousand miles.
    Main bearings are made of a Babbitt lead material. Its wear smears to voids making it sort of self conforming, almost self healing. Water or gas will wash that material away.
    The 7 quarts of oil had to go in one of 3 places.. in the coolant system ( unlikely ), in the cylinders, or down the exhaust pipe. I hate to say it but it really doesn't matter where it went now that we see the fluid mixing.
    I would pull the head and rotate the bottom end to inspect the bores. If I didn't find a wrist pin walked, or a cracked cylinder wall, I would assume for now that I have a rebuildable engine.
     
  22. fastnos

    fastnos Well-Known Member

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    You can also go to Autozone or Advance Auto and rent a radiator/cooling system tester. Basically, you put down a deposit equal to new cost of equipt, use it, and they return your full deposit apon return.
    It has a hand pump, hose and adaptors for radiator top and cap. Hand pump has a vage on it- yellow/green/red. Pump it up to see if it holds pressure to about same psi as your cap. If you have problems, it'll bleed off fast. Look for coolant leak, while under pressure. Best to do while you still have V. Cover off.
     
  23. 66plyValiant

    66plyValiant Well-Known Member

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    leave drain plug out until you get most of the oil out, put it back in and put roughly 1 gallon of diesel fuel in the oil filler,

    check to see if it shows after awhile on the stick, start and run for 5 minutes or so, drain and see how dirty it is, you may have to repeat a few times

    has worked for me numerous times
     
  24. cjh

    cjh Well-Known Member

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    See it before....guy brings in ute, change the oil.....bingo....won't get oil pressure.
    Had to remove the sump to clean the crud off the screen of the pick-up.
    The sump had about 1/2" of crap in it.....you can sort of see a high tide mark on the pick-up.
     
  25. Oklacarcollecto

    Oklacarcollecto Life is an experiment

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    That is nasty.
     
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