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Just curious @RustyRatRod is your 3 speed a non - synchro 1st gear ??
I still do.
Yes. The one in the car NOW is. The A230 that I plan to replace it with is the HD fullly synchronized three speed.
One thing I forgot to include was regarding the crankshaft. If you remember in one video, I talked about how dirt daubers had built into the main journal oil passages and how important it was to make sure all of the oil passages were unblocked and CLEAN. Well, the oil passages in the crank were the SAME. It is IMPERATIVE that when you assemble one that you double and triple check how clean things are, or you can end up with a real catastrophe on your hands. In my case, I would not be out "much", since, by necessity, I have an absolute minimum of money outlay. Still though, I am going to have "all I can put" in it, so to me, I would be out a good bit. But for someone whose build is a 10K, 15K, 20K or higher build, attention to detail is even more important. Having a problem because of a parts failure is one thing. That's out of your control. But having a failure directly related to a poor assembly such as not being clean is another thing entirely. THAT is within your control, or the control of "whomever" is assembling your engine. All of this even goes for "NEW" parts or "freshly machined" parts. If you get parts back from your machine shop and they tell you it's "ready to assemble" guess what? Well, NO, IT'S NOT! Not until you've gone over every inch of those parts, inside and out with soapy water and engine brushes. NOBODY and I mean NOBODY is perfect! Don't let someone else ruin a perfectly good build for you. There's no excuse for it.
That fully synchronized will be a big improvement. Takes a special knack to drive the non-synchro ones, coming back down into first gear . . pretty much have to stop then drop it back into first.
Oh and I also forgot another thing. I AM keeping a running tab on costs, so I will update this thread with that maybe later today or tomorrow.
Yeah but you know, that's never bothered me one bit. It might be because my 75 F250 that I've been driving for about the last six years has the Borg Warner T-18 in it. That's the 4 speed with the double low first gear and it's also a non syncro first and I use it almost 100% of the time I drive it. It gives it a better boost starting off. To me, complaining about "that" is like a millennial bitching about starting a car with a carburetor. It's just a "non issue". LOL
Rusty, this is a good idea and thanks for sharing your build. This is more realistic for the average joe that wants to build an engine for his ride. With the right core parts you don't have to spend a fortune to have a good motor for your ride(s).
That can be true. But......and this is the really unfortunate part......since these engines haven't produced for better than thirty years, "AS IS" good buildable cores are really getting harder and harder to find. Used to be you could find them in salvage yards all day long and under 100 bucks. I can remember having a friend who owned a local yard. He'd call me up any time they'd get a big block Chevy in and I'd go get it for 75 bucks. I even got a couple of aluminum headed engines at that price. Course, this was back in the early 80s. I had over thirty good core engines in my back yard at one point. You simply cannot find them "like that" anymore. I was blessed this time though with good parts from a good friend. I did have to put "a little" work in saving the crank, but six gallons of vinegar was cheaper than having it dipped or blasted. Plus it was more fun. lol And you hit it. That's what this is all about. Having a decent engine for your "ride" your street car. This engine will not have 8:1 compression, but I just bet it'll boil the hides and do it dead reliably. The old big bore motor is bound to have some good torque.
I think it is cool of you to share what you know with some younger guys just starting out. I am tech challenged, but have considered doing the same thing with the video on youtube. I worked with a kid buying an engine from me and we built his engine together. Not just final assembly, the whole shebang. Takes a lot longer but I like teaching like my Dad and his friends did for me. He now gets it that it takes the average guy a weeks time to find a good core, teardown, inspect, and clean, take parts to machine shop to be checked, clean measure and inspect internals, locate and order GOOD parts as needed, etc. It isn't just an afternoon job slopped together in a couple hours. I told him if you won"t eat off of the part it does not go in the engine. There are still some good cheap big block cores . Just have to know where to look. Why do you think all those motorhomes and C bodies were built?
Yup, but in this area, FINDING them is an issue. We don't have any U Pull It yards here anymore. That means all the yards here don't have older stuff. The crusher makes the rounds every few years and crushes everything about ten years old. So if you find anything old enough to do you any good around here, it will come from a private party. But you're right. They are still out there. Somewhere.
Just noticed you are in GA. I live up in Lawrenceville on the NE side of Atlanta.
Cool. Yeah yall got some pick n pulls around Atlanta. I'm in Jones County.
Agreed. I even open up a new oil pump to clean out the housing, rotors, and pressure spring, as well as hydraulic lifters.
Here's the budget "so far". I'm obviously going to eclipse my original 1000 dollar goal, but I will have a few parts to sell to possibly offset some of that. Still, for all I've gotten done so far, it's not bad at all, especially for a big block. Chrysler 400 Build Budget Block, crank, cam and main bearings – 100 Vinegar for derusting crank – 18 Wood for box – already had. 0 Rockers, shafts, head bolts, pushrods- graciously donated. - 0 Comp XE285HL- graciously donated- 0 Camshaft – 75 shipped SA Gear Billet Timing Set – 86 906 heads – 235 HV Oil Pump&Hardened shaft- 162 HV oil pump bolts - 18 Lunati lifters - 105 Rod bearings- 40 Rings – 35 oil pan bolts- 12 Windage tray/oil pan gasket- 61 Conversion Pilot bearing- 14 oil dipstick- 12 Total so far- 973 I forgot the three distributors I have. That adds 150 for a total of 1123. Sold crankshaft- 200 That puts me at 923. New valve springs graciously donated. Thanks Rodney (@Bighead440).
And the knowledge to pick the right parts and put it all together, PRICELESS!
Well, "THAT PART" remains to be seen. lol I believe it will perform very well considering the cash outlay, though.
Not bad...starting with a decent core for a hundred bucks, most don’t come around with deals like that to often. Same for the usable heads, Rob must get the senior citizens discount on everything he buys. Great build that will power the ghost ship nicely.
Ha! I hawk Ebay all the time. Plus I do general internet searches. With my budget, or rather the lack thereof, I have to be pretty frugal if I want to do this. It's an expensive hobby.
....and as for the heads, @dukeboy_318 was kind enough to give me that smokin deal. I appreciate everyone's help with donations and inexpensive parts. It was not expected, but has certainly helped.
Need a distributor yet?
I have three, actually. A GM big cap HEI style, a pro form electronic and a points type. SO I got that "covered". lol
Key to the budget build imo is to buy the stuff long before you need it when you come across a deal. I have more core engines than I currently have cars. If you wait until the moment you need something, you will pay a premium for it. For example it is entirely possible to buy a non running vehicle, part it out to get your cost back, while getting the core engine for nothing other than some work.
That's pretty much what I've been doing.