Best BB bang for your buck?

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RustyDusty

RustyDusty

Rabid Cross-eyed Opossum!
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I'm wanting to turn my /6 73 duster into a BB. I'm on a tight budget, I can't put much more than $1,500 into the BB, that being over a period of time. My question is, what motor can you modify for (relatively) cheap to get the best bang for your buck? I read a lot on this site about the 400 being a good motor to mod for cheap?

Thanks & Cheers!
Drake
 
One big block is not going to cost more to mod compared to the others since they use a lot of the same parts. $1,500 isn't going to go very far so I would look for something that already runs and bolt on a different intake/carb combo along with headers and possibly a different cam. It will cost the same to do this for a 383, 400, or 440.

The newer 400's and 440's are going to have lower compression. Keep that in mind. Personally, I would look for a '67-'71 383 2bbl out of a 4 door family car. That way you will have 9 or 10:1 compression and can do some simple bolt-ons to get 400+ horsepower.
 
For that kinda cheap I would go with a 383. They are overlooked, underrated and foggotten. 440s are a tight fit. REAL tight. the low deck motora fit a lot better and open up more possibilities for exhaust. The 400, though more cubes, will require literally .100" milled off the heads to get compression barely in the 9.1 range. Then, you gotta mill the intake a bunch, worry about adjustable rockers cause now the pushrods are too long....blah blah. Find a 383 and build it. You can get decent compression with stock heads and pistons and make plenty enough power to make an a body scoot. I gotta few things for a 383 if you're interested. they are just takin up space here.
 
a camshaft, torque converter and rear gear all matched to each other would fit into the $1500 budget.
 
If you're gonna go with a stroked 383, you might as well do the 451. You're gonna have the same money in it. If you're on a budget, stick withe 383. They are very powerful engines built right.
 
Lots of ways to get there, but your best bang for the buck would be to buy something that already runs and stuff it in. BUT, first you need to define the use and performance level for the car. I'm more than happy with the basically bone-stock 440 that's in my son's Dart convertible, especially backed by the four speed and 3.23SG rear. Others want more power and gear.
 
Performance wise, all I want is a street car with some get up and go! I'm not going to be racing it or anything like that. I'll be putting an exhaust cutout on it... which means I'll want an oversized cam to get the glug glug going. I want her to be noisy, but in a good way! I'm just starting out on engine builds, and want to get my feet wet.
 
Rusty,regardless of what you decide,build the strongest bottom end you can afford.This allows you to do upgrades without worry of a strong foundation.
 
horsehead said:
Rusty,regardless of what you decide,build the strongest bottom end you can afford.This allows you to do upgrades without worry of a strong foundation.
Click to expand...

Great advice. I am going to "waste" money on the ARP PRO Wave Loc rod bolts to go in my six pack rods. At 100 bucks, they're pricey for rod bolts, but a whole lot less than another short block.
 
Doing a stroker engine is outta your budhet. $1500 for this is not enuff. DD said double, I say triple your budget.

The 383 advice was the best IMO followed by a simlar idea with a 440 if you can actually find one in good condition for a cheap price. Your seriously under estimating the cost in a big way.
 
I would also go for a 383, put the money in a set of 440source.com aluminum heads and a new cam.
 
I have to agree with all the talk about running a 383. First off it will fit much better than a 440 will. Plus you can make some good power with it on your budget. A set of 915 heads which are readily available at low cost would help out too along with all the other bolt on goodies.

Ted
 
Buy a good running 440 and run it. $1500 is not a reasonable budget IMO for a good rebuild. But you could probably find something low mileage or possibly rebuilt with some miles for under that.
 
Budget and stroker do not go in the same sentence. My vote is for a 383 with some decent bolt ons. Look at the larger Summit camshaft and get you a good dual plane intake. You will like it in the a-body!!
 
I agree with DusTed, 383 with 915 heads and make sure they've got the 1.74 exhaust valves then start scrounging for manifolds (headers are probably out of the question for a 1500 build). I don't know what your complete budget is worth but the rest of the car is going to need some serious coin spent on it cuss stopping, cooling and handling are just as important as what's under the hood.
 
I have the following parts if you want to stick with budget factory/inexpensive stuff. Edelbrock Performer 383, 383 steel crank standard, will clean up at .010-.010, one very nice 67 casting 915 head, I also have a pair of the HP manifolds correct to fit a bb in an A body. The C body driver's side and a b body passenger's side. I am probably going to go with headers because my build just keeps getting more radical as time goes on. Let me know if you are interested, I will give you a great deal since I am not going to use this stuff. It is just taking up space. I trade a lot too.
 
StrokerScamp said:
For that kinda cheap I would go with a 383. They are overlooked, underrated and foggotten. 440s are a tight fit. REAL tight. the low deck motora fit a lot better and open up more possibilities for exhaust. The 400, though more cubes, will require literally .100" milled off the heads to get compression barely in the 9.1 range. Then, you gotta mill the intake a bunch, worry about adjustable rockers cause now the pushrods are too long....blah blah. Find a 383 and build it. You can get decent compression with stock heads and pistons and make plenty enough power to make an a body scoot. I gotta few things for a 383 if you're interested. they are just takin up space here.
Click to expand...

Good advice. That's what i would do.
I would get a whole car that runs and has good and even compression and oil pressure. You need to rob all of the drivetrain parts off it, rad etc. Any extras you can sell off to fund the project. I would go with Schumacher mounts and headers. Exhaust manifolds might fit, but might be a major PITA.
If you scan e-bay and craigslist or even go to swap meets, you might find the Shumacher stuff for a lot cheaper than new, same goes with a 4 barrel and carb.
You still need at least A body V8 torsion bars and better brakes than the 9" ones you have (unless your car was factory equipped with bbp discs) and at least an 8 1/4" A body diff. You'll have to modify your driveshaft too. These are all safety items you need to think about before you turn a wheel.
You could possibly do it all for $1500, but i doubt it. The only thing you could afford new are some gaskets and sealer etc, the nickle and dime stuff.
I would double your budget and you would maybe get there with a used engine etc. and all of the safety stuff included. (rebuilt brakes etc.) You gotta have whoah if you want the go!
Forget about stroker engines for now.
Maybe check out other threads here on this or on bigblockdart.com.
JMHO.
Tom.
 
A good car that runs here costs at least $5,000, with a shot body! The rust belt eats them alive, so when they're running they're worth their weight in gold.
 
Does the $1500 budget include all of the extras that go along with a motor/trans upgrade? Torsion bars, sway bar, upgraded front shocks, 8 3/4 rearend, possibly frame connectors, conversion to disk brakes up front at the very least (if you have drums now), aluminum radiator, trans cooler with a fan, etc, etc, etc? All of those items are going to more than double your $1500 budget when its all said and done unless you come across a lot of donations. Im not trying to rain on your parade, but Id hate to see you get started and have it sit for years without ever being able to finish. Definately let us know what you decide and keep us posted (wiith pics ofcourse) on the build!!!!
 
The $1500 is just for the engine. I've accounted for the T-bars, aluminum rad, tranny cooler, etc. I will post stuff for you guys. Thanks for all the help!

Cheers!
Drake
 
Buy a good running car first.
THEN change out the cam and valve springs and add a set of cheap headers.
You could most likely get these cars for under 2000 grand.
This is were most people miss the mark.
You have to be realistic.
And realistically speaking , a 9 to 1 or more 440 with the right cam and matched valve springs, plus headers all tuned in ,with everything else being stock , will make any duster a very fast car.
good luck:-D




More info 1971 New Yorker $2300 runs great! Original 440 Engine - $2500 (Columbus)

Date: 2010-10-01, 5:46PM EDT
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]

Original 440 engine, no rips, no dents, all original, 73,000 miles, runs great, kept in a garage! 614-467-8231


  • Location: Columbus
  • it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial inte
ore info 1974 chrysler new yorker - $2500 (chillicothe ohio 45601)

Date: 2010-09-29, 5:03PM EDT
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]

1974 chrysler new yorker 4 door hard top dark brown exterior with light brown/beige vinyl top thats in great condition.this chrysler has the great muscle of the 440/727 motor and tranny combo that runs out really well with only 69,000 original miles.this car would drive anywhere and looks pretty good for a classic survivor with no repaints or damage ever.the windshield is cracked and i will replace before it is sold.the car has a set of true dual exhaust and sounds awesome as well...this car would look great with a set of 2o's or some baby dayton wires.....thanks for looking and you can contact me at 701-7490 or 851-4479.thanks again jason.


  • Location: chillicothe ohio 45601
  • it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
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