Best Kept Secret in the Big Block Mopar World

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I’ve followed AndyF for years now. He’s got a really impressive 470. I state in the video that all the 400s are great to use. I just emphasized the 230 CWB for its obvious benefit. I even mentioned the need to sonic check it.
Oh you made the video?
It was a good video, nothing in it is disagreeable at all. I was simply pointing out to the others on the thread if they weren't aware that even the more undesirable years can be some great blocks.
I wasn't trying to knock or take anything away from your video.
 
Why are all the boomers so triggered? Lol god forbid a young guy keep the classic mopar spirit alive and educate the rest of his generation.
Hey dude, you just keep doing what you're doing, Incase the older folks have forgotten our sport our hobby is being attacked and lost daily...I'm all in, I got your back because I'm sorta young myself and don't want to see it lost for people like us and my nephew and everyone's nephew in this world that wants a muscle car.
I can't subscribe to YouTube since I was kicked off in 2020 lol
 
Why are all the boomers so triggered? Lol god forbid a young guy keep the classic mopar spirit alive and educate the rest of his generation.
Obviously your interpretation of "best kept secret" is different from theirs. Andy F talked about 400's and thick webs etc quite a while back if my memory's correct.
You get paid for the youtube stuff?
 
Sorry, but that's also known . All makes of blocks are imported here, so if one is perceived as being more desirable than the other, then that's what importers try to source. HD, Truck, cold weather, etc, from whatever brand.
The guy I used to get import parts from would blab about it to everyone interested in getting blocks and everyone likes to be "in the know" so it just spread from there. The Mopar community is small here, so everything spreads fast.
I think the next secret should be stroked 361 blocks..

I can totally understand that. I’d want to do as much research as possible before spending the cash to import a block that was only offered overseas.

I can honestly say that I’ve only ever seen two 361 big blocks in my lifetime. It would be pretty cool if there was a special version. Might have to do a little research.
 
Those 361 get overlooked because you can't get a decent off the shelf piston for them.
I figured that if someone offered a stroker piston for them, then they would be more popular.
I've got one here.
 
Obviously your interpretation of "best kept secret" is different from theirs. Andy F talked about 400's and thick webs etc quite a while back if my memory's correct.
You get paid for the youtube stuff?

I learned a lot about the 400 from Andy on this forum. No I don’t get paid for the YouTube stuff. It’s a fun hobby that motivates me to keep working on the projects. Outside of the gearhead world, I’ve got a full time job, part-time job (Navy), and young family.
 
I can totally understand that. I’d want to do as much research as possible before spending the cash to import a block that was only offered overseas.

I can honestly say that I’ve only ever seen two 361 big blocks in my lifetime. It would be pretty cool if there was a special version. Might have to do a little research.
Did you know the 361 was used in some military vehicles up until the 1990s ?
 
Those 361 get overlooked because you can't get a decent off the shelf piston for them.
I figured that if someone offered a stroker piston for them, then they would be more popular.
I've got one here.

I wonder if there’s a ferd or chebby piston with a similar bore that could be used.
 
I became a B- block believer with my A-body 451 build. A 440 .060 over is also a 451. But stands no chance. The mating of RB forged crank into a B-block is a marriage made in heaven. It's lighter rotating assembly with the smaller 400 mains made a big block that thinks its a small block. It also demonstrates why the Chevy 396 was more potent than nearly anything of simular cubes. It's the shorter deck. But with the 400/451 build? Just bigger and badder than 396. Due to far better head design and options. And of course. More cubes.

I'm very sure this is no secret. Especially in Mopar world.
 
Hey dude, you just keep doing what you're doing, Incase the older folks have forgotten our sport our hobby is being attacked and lost daily...I'm all in, I got your back because I'm sorta young myself and don't want to see it lost for people like us and my nephew and everyone's nephew in this world that wants a muscle car.
I can't subscribe to YouTube since I was kicked off in 2020 lol

It’s up to folks like us to keep it alive. The pressure to scrap the classics seems to only grow. Especially here in California.

Youtube, Facebook, TikTok, etc… it seems like their algorithms ban people for the stupidest things. It’s a social power that I only see increasing in the future.
 
I learned a lot about the 400 from Andy on this forum. No I don’t get paid for the YouTube stuff. It’s a fun hobby that motivates me to keep working on the projects. Outside of the gearhead world, I’ve got a full time job, part-time job (Navy), and young family.
Bummer you don't pick up a few bucks from it.
You seem to have a natural flow in front of the camera or IPhone etc.. Some people are like a deer caught in the headlights LOL.
It's cool, enjoy making them..
 
I became a B- block believer with my A-body 451 build. A 440 .060 over is also a 451. But stands no chance. The mating of RB forged crank into a B-block is a marriage made in heaven. It's lighter rotating assembly with the smaller 400 mains made a big block that thinks its a small block. It also demonstrates why the Chevy 396 was more potent than nearly anything of simular cubes. It's the shorter deck. But with the 400/451 build? Just bigger and badder than 396. Due to far better head design and options. And of course. More cubes.

I'm very sure this is no secret. Especially in Mopar world.

I totally agree that the 400/451 and even 400/470 combos are some of the best one can build. The “secret” is really just the cold weather block. After seeing this topic BLOW up on TikTok… it seems like 40-50% didn’t know about the mopar 400 and about 95% didn’t know about the CWB
 
350 8 v90 58 4.06 3.38 B One year only
361 8 v90 58-66 4.12 3.38 B
383 8 v90 59-71 4.25 3.38 B better known 383, (383.596 CID)
383 8 v90 58-60 4.03 3.75 RB Actually 382.667 CID
400 8 v90 71-78 4.34 3.38 B
413 8 v90 59-73 4.18 3.75 RB
426 8 v90 63-66 4.25 3.75 RB Wedge
426 8 v90 64-71 4.25 3.75 HEMI
440 8 v90 66-78 4.32 3.75 RB
-RB is raised deck version of B with longer stroke, bigger mains.
-Hemi block is based on RB, but not interchangable (cross-bolted
mains, different head mounting bolt pattern, etc).
-All OHV, including Hemi.
-75 and earlier are thick wall castings, (up to .060 overbore)
-76 and later are thin wall castings (up to .020 overbore)
(Chart courtesy of the members of the Mopar Mailing List and Andre Roy
 
I wonder if there’s a ferd or chebby piston with a similar bore that could be used.
There are a couple of choices when you look at stroking them, based on the Pontiac/ Chev deal.
Icon has one that is close and so does Diamond.
 
Everything you've ever wanted to know about blocks and more...

Written by Brandon Nicholas in 2003.

Copyright www.440source.com

If you haven't read our page on An explanation of Chrysler's part and casting number system, be sure to check it out also.

Blocks are one of the most misunderstood aspects of building a big block Mopar engine. Never has there been more misinformation, propaganda and rumors floating around. In the many years we have been involved with the big block Mopar engine, we have seen and owned many many hundreds of used core engines. We have used this opportunity to try and keep records as much as possible as to different advantages and disadvantages that various blocks offer. All the facts listed below are the result of our


In the many years we have been involved with the big block Mopar engine, we have seen and owned many many hundreds of used core engines. We have used this opportunity to try and keep records as much as possible as to different advantages and disadvantages that various blocks offer. All the facts listed below are the result of our independently testing, measuring, sonic checking or otherwise gathering information directly from original sources: either the blocks themselves or the original factory drawings (blueprints) that Chrysler used to manufacture the blocks. This eliminates all chance of secondhand information, rumors, marketing or sales talk, etc. Hopefully this page will help hobbyists, restoration experts, and racers decide which choice of block is best for them.

First, let us address the biggest myth of all:

For many years it was thought that late model blocks were thin wall and should not be bored more than .030 over.

On page 198 of the Mopar engines manual, (the 8th edition) in the "B-RB Engines (block) section, it states: "The 1976-1977-1978 blocks for the 400 and 440 are a thin wall casting design. As such they shouldn't be overbored more then .020." This quote can now be found on page 58 of the new "Big Block B/RB Engines book from Mopar Perfomance, part # P4876825

Two pages later, (pg. 200) under "Boring and milling specifications," the manual states: "...The newer blocks (1975-1978) should only be bored .030" max., because they are thin wall castings. This quote can now be found on page 64 of the new "Big Block B/RB Engines book from Mopar Perfomance, part # P4876825

Then, in the May '98 issue of Mopar Performance

Are the thinwall blocks from 76-78, or are they from 73-78? Can you bore them .030, or is .020 the maximum? We will answer all these questions once and for all based on scientific fact. The purpose of citing these books and articles is not to make Chrysler/Mopar Performance look bad. As racers and hobbyists, we are grateful for the resources and aftermarket parts that Chrysler makes available. However, it does demonstrate how even someone who does their research could be easily confused. So, it is to the benefit of everyone involved to help spread information which is known to be true, even if goes against popular thinking.

So what is the truth? Get ready for this.

There is no such thing as thinwall blocks. They DO NOT exist.

We have sonic checked over 50 blocks, and have found absolutely no evidence that later model blocks have cylinder walls that are any thinner.

You need to go to 440 source and read up on what they have found with the blocks and what Andy found with the blocks.

There are no thin wall blocks.
 
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Pity 440 source don't offer a 361 stroker. All it would take is a piston.
 
Lol, a 3.750 stroke and that bore would be a measly 400 ci,
406 +.030,
412 +.060.
I see why they dont

More stroke options than 3.75 :rolleyes:
And a bucks a buck right? Better to offer a piston and sell more kits a year right?
By your logic, SB strokers are a waste of time as well..
Whats the point of a 400+ Ci 360 engine..
 
350 8 v90 58 4.06 3.38 B One year only
Gotta go north of the border, but I have a April '59 casting date on a 350 that's in my '66 Monaco. They used them at least through 1960. I haven't bothered researching any more info on them. First and only one I've laid eyes on.

PXL_20210122_232633461.jpg


L Large bore
S Short stroke
 
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More stroke options than 3.75 :rolleyes:
And a bucks a buck right? Better to offer a piston and sell more kits a year right?
By your logic, SB strokers are a waste of time as well..
Whats the point of a 400+ Ci 360 engine..
That's a great assumption to say my logic lol.
The 360 sb 408-410-416 and bigger are the exact reason why I think building a long stroke small bore big block is just funny. The more stroke you put to that 361 it's still smaller than the 383 kits which are more available. Money's money yes, but they'd lose their *** or sit on those pistons forever.
I mean it's pretty obvious, just look around here !
361 is rarely ever talked about as a starting point
 
Not to mention the 361 bore size is so small you couldn't get away with running any decent heads
 
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