Blueprint 408 in '63 Dart?

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I picked up a reworked 8-3/4" with alloy axles, 3.54 on a Suregrip carrier. Just finished with the subframe connectors and rear torque boxes. I also have a 727 with a bunch of upgrades. Reverse pattern manual valve body, steel front drum, Supersprag, etc. I ordered a new fuel sending unit with 3/8" lines, and will be upgrading the fuel line from the tank to the carb as well.
My older USCartool Chassis Stiffening kit came with tubular, front-under radiator brace and tubular under-fender braces that boxed in the shock tower upper mount. I also welded the shock towers to the inner fenders, as mine were pulling the spot welds through the inner fender and used the FirmFeel K-member bracing kit plus welded the seams to that and the torsion bar cross-member.

Of course I had to repaint the inner fenders afterwards, and I've since made my own Monte Carlos bar that bolts in with only 3 new howls in the cowl lip above the wiper motor.

These add-on's transformed the car.

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My older USCartool Chassis Stiffening kit came with tubular, front-under radiator brace and tubular under-fender braces that boxed in the shock tower upper mount. I also welded the shock towers to the inner fenders, as mine were pulling the spot welds through the inner fender and used the FirmFeel K-member bracing kit plus welded the seams to that and the torsion bar cross-member.

Of course I had to repaint the inner fenders afterwards, and I've since made my own Monte Carlos bar that bolts in with only 3 new howls in the cowl lip above the wiper motor.

These add-on's transformed the car.

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Thanks for the tips. These things definitely are flexi flyers as they come from the factory. They can definitely use help stiffening them up.
 
This car definitely has a story to tell. After 60 years it's seen some big changes. Right now it's a /6 car with an automatic, yet it has the brake pedal from a manual car. Looking under the dash I can see that someone literally cut the clutch pedal off.

This car already has a dropped center link from a V8 car. The firewall has not been modified for a small block swap. Maybe it had a big block in it at some point, or someone gave up on a small block swap?

I sure wish the car could talk!
 

And so it begins...

This is the first time I have had a chance to use the modified cherry picker. It really works well and gives me extra lift height which is needed while the car is on a 4 post lift. It is also nice to be able to pull the engine and then drive it away while it's still on the hook. I left it next to my shipping container and sealed everything up. I will be putting the /6 and the 904 up for sale.

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A couple updates. Mounting the electric power steering is nearly done and new wheels just arrived.

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Well I couldn't leave well enough alone. I had room for the distributor with my modification, but it just didn't look as clean as a '64+ firewall so I cut it up and started over.

8-3/4" is installed now as well. Front suspension is now pulled apart for a rebuild.

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Sweet, diggin' the Minilites.....hey,...did anybody mention throwin' a lowdeck B engine in there???
 
For anyone wanting to do this in the future, Mother Mopar put indexing holes in the center of the firewall. When you get your new section from the boneyard cut out all three layers, then separate them when you get home. You only need to keep the bottom layer. The top layer is the outer cowl, middle layer, inner cowl, lower layer is the firewall. Use a lineup tool to line up the new firewall, clamp it in place, draw out your edges, and go at it.
 
Where are in AZ are you?
When I bought this car it already had an Aussiespeed split exhaust and Intake, as well as a 390cfm 4bbl. Even with that the 170 feels like a dog to me. It will all go up for sale once I start the swap.
 
In the mock up phase right now. Ensuring there is enough room for a 26" radiator with 12" Spal fans. It's tight but it's going to work. :D

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