Brake drum stuck

[Mopar92]

I have never ever had a brake drum as stuck as my 60,000 mile Duster. Removed wheel, backed off shoes completely. Sprayed PT oil on the register and lug holes. I've fought this for 3 hours. Other side came right off. Just short of pulling the car into the yard and setting fire to the whole car, what else to try? I'm a little hesitant on the brake drum pullers out there. These drums have that nazi helmet flare out that are very thin. Any other ideas ?

 

[AJ/FormS]

I have never seen a drum puller for this set-up.
The way I get them off is;
A) I clean the register with a small wire-wheel mounted in a die-grinder
B) I apply a little penetrating oil
C) I smack the outer diameter of the drum with a 2 pounder at 12 o'clock and directly over the mounting flange. Then I rotate the drum about an hour or two, and repeat. The smacking does not need to be life-threatening. It is the vibration that is going to do the work. Continue working around the perimeter for a couple of revolutions.
D) If this fails, then I move to smacking in a new direction. Again at the outer diameter, but this time on the side of the drum, next to the corner where it rolls over to the top. And again rotating after each smack.
E) on particularly tough ones, I will dig out the air-hammer and vibrate all around the studs.

Keep in mind that all this pounding goes directly into the wheel-bearings.

 

[Mopar92]

The register believe it or not, is very very clean. The car doesn't have nasty scale rust like I was expecting. I guess I'll keep PT spraying it through the lug holes. Guessing it's stuck on the axle flange.

 

[Mopar92]

I have never seen a drum puller for this set-up.
The way I get them off is;
A) I clean the register with a small wire-wheel mounted in a die-grinder
B) I apply a little penetrating oil
C) I smack the outer diameter of the drum with a 2 pounder at 12 o'clock and directly over the mounting flange. Then I rotate the drum about an hour or two, and repeat. The smacking does not need to be life-threatening. It is the vibration that is going to do the work. Continue working around the perimeter for a couple of revolutions.
D) If this fails, then I move to smacking in a new direction. Again at the outer diameter, but this time on the side of the drum, next to the corner where it rolls over to the top. And again rotating after each smack.
E) on particularly tough ones, I will dig out the air-hammer and vibrate all around the studs.

Keep in mind that all this pounding goes directly into the wheel-bearings.

Thanks. That's exactly what I'm changing! Already have the spare axles done and loaded. Ready to swap.

 

[AJ/FormS]

In that case just hit harder. There have been times that I had to pound from the rear, but with those finned drums (Edit; nazi-helmet flared) they would need protection. And, unfortunately, the protection item usually absorbs a big percentage of the walloping.
When I pound from the rear, lying on my side like that, I usually switch to a small sledge hammer, cuz I can control it better, and I can't hit very hard anyways, lying down like that,lol. And the big face makes finding the target a lil easier too

 

[pishta]

Is it a gonner? The shoes are probably cocked in there. Drill a hole(s) into the outboard edge of the drum where the shoe is and use a drift in there to tap the shoes back while you are pulling on the drum. You can also use the holes to pry the shoes inward once the adjuster is backed off.

 

[chryslerfat]

A BFH gets them off. Big Hammer.

 

[Mopar92]

Shoes aren't cocked. I backed them off before I started. I backed them way off. I PT oiled the lug holes and register really good. Let it sit for the day. This is not a finned drum. It's a very thin non finned factory drum. Thanks guys.

 

[AJ/FormS]

What then is a nazi-helmet flare if not a fin?

 

[Mopar92]

It really flares out and is super thin. No fins. Chrysler markings.

 

[chryslerfat]

Beat on the drum not the flare and you will be ok.

 

[roadrunnerh]

How about some heat?

 

[Mopar92]

I've got a torch. That's the last effort. Thanks guys. I'll hit it again tomorrow. Letting it soak good.

 

[RedFish]

Bouncing or rebounding blows, with a 3 lb. shop hammer, between the lug studs always worked for me. Maybe I'm just lucky. If all else fails, Moving the wheel cylinder provides a good size hole to work through.

 

[Mopar92]

Alright. Update. After a good 4-5 soakings yesterday. I let the drum sit. I whacked it a good 4-5 times and bam! We are in the show. Guess my adult life patience is paying off. At 20, there would have been a torch or sawzall involved. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

 

[Mopar92]

I've run into this before but now the dang bearing is stuck in the tube. Amazing how one side was so cooperative. I should have been skeptical there. I've been able to beat them out when the rear was out of the car. I've reveresed the drum and hit it for an hour. I guess a slide hammer and the axle are the next thing.

 

[pishta]

Mount a tire/rim loose on the studs and use it as a slide hammer. Or use a real slide hammer.....

 

[Mopar92]

It took a slide hammer and violence.

 

[roadrunnerh]

At 20, there would have been a torch or sawzall involved. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Why at 20? I've CAREFULLY applied heat and the drum slid right off. No damage.

 

[Mopar92]

At 20, I would have torched the axle in half and gone to the junkyard for a new rear, solely from impatience. LOL