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Thanks Cliff! A lot of support from you!
Love Moog brand stuff. It hasnt let me down yet. Did you ever look into the sector kit from firmfeel? From what I understand,there is also a torrington bearing kit for the idler arm to replace the crappy rubber bushings. I've sent ff several emails,but they are always bad about getting back to me. Sometimes it takes a month or more. Maybe I'll call..... I have several upgrades planned for my front suspension.The lower control arm re enforcement plates,sector kit,idler arm kit,re welding the k frame, home made frame connectors and torque boxes front and rear. The area where I live is very mountainous,like Brazil but not warm! Sway bars are in the works..Probably going to need some adjustable gas shocks,like KYB's. Anyways,good to hear from you again! Too bad about that tax man. He seems to be able to suck every spare penny out of me!
Good to see you using the offset UCA bushings and the Moog lower bushings. I used the exact same parts in my 68 when I redid the front end 4-5 years ago. I also welded in the LCA reinforcing plates. Everything is rubber except for poly sway bar bushings and end links. I spent a full day fully welding all the seams in my 73-76 K frame and adding some reinforcement around the steering box mount and idler arm area. Also, make sure you reinforce the Lower Control Arm pivot holes. Those are prone to cracking. I also used poly rear spring shackle bushings from Mancini. (7/8" diameter) Using the offset bushings I'm running 1-3/4 degrees positive caster and the car tracks like a freight train. Very stable w/ 15 x 7 wheels and 215-60x15 tires all around. Pics are of my junk ready to be installed and the "tool" I used to install the UCA bushings. Keep it up Andre!!
KosmicKuda, thanks a lot for your support. Iam new on his sutff, never did a work like this. For now I want to put the back on the street. I can´t weld the K-mender at this time for good reasons $$$$. LOL. Take a look on the rest of the part I allready have, I think the will be great to drive. My next order will be the LCA reinforce plates and a pair of Heavy Duty sleeve, booth from FFI. And that will be it for now. My next step will be four 15X8 Bassett wheels and tires. I think all this will make a good car. After a wile saving $$$ i will put weld on conecetor frames and a rear sway bar. Unfortunately i cant have any more parts... But all you guys tell me are right down for future orders. Sorry about my ignorance, but i can´t think in inches LOL. Here I think of +5 to +6 of castes, that would be the same as you? And please, tell me how you did your tool! If you can post pics of it apart would be great for me! Keep walking Jony Walker! I will made this thing run! And thanks to guy from FABO. Hugs for hot season Brazil! lol!
needsaresto, thank man for your mesage and support! I loved the Moog stuff, crazy to see it on the car. I visit FFI site allmost every day, but I cant order much now $$$. So I have to pic all parts that fit on my pocket and will make a diference on the car. But all this things are in my plan for future: weld K fram, torque box all around, and the gear box sector. I never see those idler kit that you are talking about. Do you have a link? Taxes SUX!!!! 60% over the price of PART + SHIPP + HANDLING!!!! And the dollar is almost twice our money!!!! TOOOOOOOO expensive. But... Strong enoght to keep in line Hugs!
Wow 60% import tax and that dollar exchange would set many of us back as well. Canadian import tax is 12% if it isn't a tax exempt item. Also couriers (Fedex etc.) have a brokerage fee the mail (USPS) does not charge. And our dollars are near par. I have a new appreciation for the hobbyist in Brazil. Side note: Anything on the hood layout info?
Hey dartfastback,you forgot about the mysterious 20% canadian inflation,which we pay for everyday items not imported. The 20% our govt cant explain... Andrev,I dont have a link yet as this product isnt on ffi sight. I read about it in mopar action magazine,which is also where I first learned about ffi sector kit. Apparently there used to be a similar kit available,but not since 2000 when the stock ran out. I have been emailing ffi about it,but always better to phone as Dick at ffi is terrible about responding to email.
Thanks a lot for your appreciation dartfastback! Here, or you do it for love or don´t do it, or have a lot of money. Since I don´t have tons of cash, is just Mopar love dude! The cost of parts are only the start. We don´t have much guys that know how to work on Dodges, and when we find somebody, they cost a lot money. That´s why I am here: to learn from the good´s and do my self. I also appreciate the american way to work on Mopars, seens that you really like what you are doing. I didn´t figure out your hood question. Thanks a lot for the support.
Hi needsaresto. Do we have on line acess to this magazine? I want to learn all I can! At the end of this mouth I will make an order on FFI! I hope that work out! Hugs from Brazil.
I was referring to getting the layout specs for painting the stripes on a 1972 charger hood. Remember now? LOL suspension on the brain?
Andre, You are on the right track. Your car will be fine with the things you are doing. Inspect your front end components and replace any that are in bad shape. Get an alignment when you are done, and you will be fine. I fully welded my K frame because I had the welder and the time. I got a very good deal on the LCA plates at the Mopar Nationals so I used them. If I remember correctly, I used these specs for alignment: 1.75 degrees positive caster. -.5 degrees camber 1/16 inch toe-in (approximately 1.5mm The Moog OFFSET upper control arm bushings allow the caster to be obtained. No chance with stock bushings. My "tool" was nothing more than a piece of 1/2 inch-13 threaded rod (approximately 12 mm diameter) about 12 inches long (30cm). I used nuts and washers to match the threaded rod. Other parts are a short piece of exhaust tubing and one of the large washers from the old strut rod bushings shown at the bottom of the picture. The picture shows the new bushing being pushed into the upper control arm. I think I remember using some kind of pipe fitting (not shown) to remove the old bushings. Same principle, just push in a different direction. Very low $$ :icon_smi: I will look and see if I still the pieces I used and take a picture. Keep us posted and just ask if you have any questions. Dennis (Winter and snow is soon to be here)
http://www.moparaction.com/ Andre I called ffi and spoke with Dick. His idler arm kit is not ready yet,but the sector kit is.
Andre I am wondering which version of the sway bar your car would use? For example my 70 Dart uses the 72 down swaybar.
Hello Dennis! Thanks a lot once more! I think all my suspension stuff are in bad shape, after all, almost 35 year of service. But I have all stuff new. The only thin that will remain the same is: LCA, UCA, strut rod, front sway bar, torsion bars and center link. All the rest will be new and nice: all bushings, all ball joints, sleeves, tie end rods, shocks, bumpers, boots, steering arm, etc. Hoping that will be a very good ride. I expect to use like +4 to +6 degrees of caster. A member from the forum have a good tip for that number, and I use power gear box, so, maybe no problems to drive on the streets. A little modification on the poly strut-rod bushings also make this kind of number possible. I´ll try this out, and for sure will show to you guys! For camber the same as you, some thing like -0.5 degrees. The toe-in I never think about it, but I will follow your suggestion. I really thing about get these tools: MOPAR Suspension Pro Tool Kit, but I am not sure about the use of the Lower ball joint stud remover and the Upper ball joint stud remover. I did a little research and figure out that these tools are for disassemble the ball joints? Is that correct? If not, how they work? All the rest have to be used. Well, that´s is for now! Thanks again for your help! I am learning a lot here, and the best, I showing to my Brazilian fellows how you do it. This is my blog: https://mundomonc.wordpress.com/. Mundo means World and MONC is a invention, contraction of Mopar Or No Car, that means: Mopar or no car World. Sorry about not have a English versions yet, but maybe in the future. But have a look!!! Thanks Dennis. Let´s keep talking. Hugs from very hot Brazil.
I saw the sector kit on FFI site. I hope in the next year i get one of these. For now, I just want to put the car back on the streets, if some more handling! But thanks for the information, crazy to see the Idler kit.
To be honest, I think that here we have only one kind of torsion bars. On the 70´s our industries were very simple. But the factors manual says the our torsion bars have 809,32 mm (31,86") X 22,6 mm (0,889"). Let´s keep talking! Thanks for the support.
Andre,I see you are using power steering. The mopar power steering system is very loose and vague,has to do with too much pressure from the pump. Here is an excellent and free fix for that! http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/beep/PUMP_IT_DOWN-re-v1.4.pdf
That is a great article. I flipped when I read it, that was one of the few magazines I bought.
Hello felas. One more order arrived. The pitman and idler arms and a camber/caster bolt kit. Just one more order and I will be able to work on the car. Very happy on the progress of my project. I want to ask you guys to take a visit on my blog: https://mundomonc.wordpress.com/. Is in portuguese, but with a lot of photos and tips. Thanks to All Hugs from Brazil. André Monc!
Andre, In America, the .89" diameter torsion bar was used on the big block (383) A-bodies. So you already have the biggest T-bar ever used in the A-bodies from the factory. Later, Mopar Performance and the after-market produced bigger bars. Regarding suspension tools. Don't feel like you have to buy a tool kit to work on your suspension. Lots of people have done without. You really do NOT need a tool to remove the lower ball joint tapered shaft from the LCA. Just remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut several turns on the LBJ shaft. Then whack the LCA arm with a big hammer on the forging where the tapered shaft passes through. Note that you do NOT hit the threaded shaft, just the end of the lower control arm on the side. Usually, a couple good whacks will dislodge the shaft from the tapered hole. It will just "pop" loose. That is the traditional way of doing it. I have attached a couple pictures of more tools I have made. One is a torsion bar remover. I cheated and milled the slot using a vertical mill at work. After removing the upper rubber bump stops, backing the T-bar adjuster all the way out, and removing the retaining ring on the end of the T-bar, the "tool" clamps around the T-bar using the 4 bolts. (one is missing in the picture) Then the tool is whacked with a big hammer towards the rear of the car to drive the bar out of the LCA. The other tool was made from a piece of 1" (25,4mm) square steel tubing with a 1/2" (12,7mm) nut welded into one end. Then a screw is threaded into the nut. I welded and then ground a small round protrusion on the top of the bolt head to engage the recess at the bottom of the UBJ stud. The cotter pin is removed from the Upper Ball Joint stud and the nut removed. The tool is then placed over the LBJ stud and the tool's screw is turned so it produces an upwards force on the end of the UBJ stud. This is not enough to dis-lodge the shaft from the tapered hole but it produces a parting load against it. Then once again, the upper part of the steering knuckle is whacked with a big hammer. It may take a couple hits but it will soon "pop" apart. The key is to impart a separation force then whack it. I find it is easiest to unscrew the UBJ from the UCA while it is still in the car after all the rest of the suspension is removed. I use the special UCA ball joint socket with a breaker bar with a 1 meter long pipe over that to add leverage. Most of these tools can be seen in the Factory Service Manual. If you don't have one, someone in FABO can probably tell you where to download a copy. (no $$ :cheers dennis If you run into problems, just yell.
For t-bar removal tool think BMX bicycle handlebar bracket x2. Already grooved!!
Helo friends from FABO. This week I transfered the Dart to repair place. Acctually is my friend´s house. Some pics to you! I removed the easy part. Now i hava to put out all ball joints, control arms and torsion bar. Thank you guys! Let´s keep talking!
You're doing great.
Looks good Andre! You will have your car on the road long before I do. The body of your car looks very nice,as I can see no rust. Up here in Canada those old cars rust very badly. I am guessing cars last and stay fairly rust free in Brazil. My Dart needs lots of metal replacement,welding and paint. It's a tough project for sure. I envy the nice clean car you have!
Looking good and making progress, Andre. Would you do me/us a favor and take a close up photo of the front quarter panel to show the Dart decal? I don't think I've ever seen that before, and was curious as to what it looked like.