moper
Well-Known Member
Actually there are only 3 variables, crank keyway location, cam keyway/ bolt location and bad timing gear set.
wow. You must live a simple life my friend
Actually there are only 3 variables, crank keyway location, cam keyway/ bolt location and bad timing gear set.
Actually I do. Once you cut through all the BS that get's thrown about, then the whole deal gets a lot clearer.wow. You must live a simple life my friend
Why stop at 6 on the cam and 10 on the gear?? Why not make it even more dramatic and make it 20 on the cam and 50 on the gear... It's a Comp gear set and a Purple cam .. Not ProComp stuff Sheesh,,, some people... Try indexing a COMPLETE cam and then get back to me, you might be surprised at what you find..It can get real hard to degree that cam in when the lobes are all over the place...and if you think one smoger from the factory goes better than another smoger because it's timing is closer to ideal ( whatever that ideal may be, could be +6 , who knows?) then your playing with yourself.Always degree to verify the cam is in where you want it.
If you are spending time and money to build or upgrade an engine, just one of the steps to insure things are at least where they are supposed to be. Mp says to install some cams at 106-108, I installed them at 98-102. Depends on what you want out of it.
Get a cam that's 6* retarded and a timing set that is another 8-10 retarded. Yep, that's a recipe for success!
The factories didn't give 2 craps about assembly and correctness. As long as it ran, they were good. 2 identical cars from the factory sometimes ran very different, wonder why?
Why stop at 6 on the cam and 10 on the gear??
Plenty more people never degree their cam in and wonder why the engine is a dog out of the hole and then spend more time pulling the front end of the engine back off to advance it 6-10* and realize if they'd done it right the first time, they wouldn't be wasting another Saturday afternoon and buying another set of timing cover gaskets, oil, and coolant...Plenty of people just degree a cam in and think that's the best it will ever be.. that's a fallacy..
Funny Guy
i am on this forum for advice. like most other people. i am trying to do the right thing with this engine but also on a tight budget. ( raising 2 young children) thats why a cant afford a degree kit at this time.
thats why i am asking the question.
My advice... stay away from the discount parts bin.Personal experience on those numbers posted.
Guess the first line in my post went beyond comprehension.
No they don't.. Plenty more people don't bother to do it and wouldn't know the difference anyway...Plenty more people never degree their cam in and wonder why the engine is a dog out of the hole and then spend more time pulling the front end of the engine back off to advance it 6-10* and realize if they'd done it right the first time, they wouldn't be wasting another Saturday afternoon and buying another set of timing cover gaskets, oil, and coolant...
My apologies if you felt put down. I understand raising children. I went into the grocery store when my children were young because we were out of toilet paper. Couldn't afford to buy some because they came in packages of two and I could only afford one. Good thing I found a partial roll on the seat of the truck when I got back home. A man does what a man's gotta does. If you can't afford to time the cam, you can't afford to time it, simple. It won't blow up dot-to-dot.
Darren,
If you were in the US, I'd send you a mag base/dial indicator to use and return. Being in Canaukenstein, shipping is way too expensive to make that happen.
Here are some links to some harbor freight parts to give you an idea. I use these things all the time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html
Grab an indicator extension, ~4", if you can find one.
My advice... stay away from the discount parts bin.
No, I'm just offering my opinion on the subject and just because it's not the same as yours doesn't mean you need to start with the names... children resort to that sort of behavior.Quit being such a turd, which is eXACTly what you are "being." Crackedback is a WELL respected member on here, and knows of what he speaks on engine work.
No, I'm just offering my opinion on the subject and just because it's not the same as yours doesn't mean you need to start with the names... children resort to that sort of behavior.
Now your seeing my point...The whole thing is, bad enough with inaccuracies in manufacuring, but some cams are simply just "ground wrong" for what "we" are doing. I recently helped a local member on here with a "dog" of a cam, and it turned out "the guys" on here (It was another old outdated purple shaft, LOL) recommended a LOT more advanced than what MP had started with.
Oh, I see, "turd" is the limit of your vocabulary. My apologies..No, your opinion is wrong. Most of this stuff is based on peoples actual factual experiences. How am I being a child because I think you are acting like a turd? You seem to think everybody else is stupid, and in effect that is what you are doing..........calling the rest of us stupid.
In case I forget later, I'm about done with you
The only way to do it right is to spend those "Saturday afternoons" playing with your cam timing. Even if you have degreed in your cam to start with.
So i ended up getting a degree kit. my MP cam calls for 113 centre line, after degreeing twice i came up with 110*. so i am 2* retard ( correct)? do i leave or advance with the advance slot on my comp cams timming set? the car is a 383 4 speed mainly stock street car. Thanks
So i ended up getting a degree kit. my MP cam calls for 113 centre line, after degreeing twice i came up with 110*. so i am 2* retard ( correct)? do i leave or advance with the advance slot on my comp cams timming set? the car is a 383 4 speed mainly stock street car. Thanks