Cam grinder/manufacturer opinions

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I can tell you that Mike's cam recommendations are often quite a bit different than you will get from other grinders. He has his own program that he uses to choose the lobes and you will see I difference

You have to have faith in his suggestions.

And have ALL your engine info ready to share...
 
If you do call Racer Brown wait till after 4pm est. Jim is in the shop during the day and answers calls and takes orders in the evenings
 
Thx guys - I'll take your advice and give these guys a ring. One more question....anybody have any thoughts on a Herbert (in California) solid roller cam? Or their solid roller lifters? Talked to them and liked what I heard. Just interested of all that collective knowledge out there to see what someone might have experience-wise with them.
 
I used to wrench for Chet but no idea if they have anything new there- check around
you might also ask Doug
Herbert's cams used to be quite a value and there were lots of lobes not in the catalog
like real mopar lobes
AS WITH MANY grinders and copycats many of these lobes are the same age as SBMs
so let us know what you find
also talk with those with long time mopar experience PHR, Racer Brown
or are Mopar enthuisasts like Dart19666 at crower
what Krooser said about Jones
IDK if Mike has more than one Mopar hyd cam- but in it's seat OR lift range it's the best
his rollers are untouchable as is his advice
 
Chris at Engle
Bruce at Herbert cams

Bought lifters from Bullet once...got 12 of one manufacturer and 4 of another. Drastically heavier than the rest. Sending them back would have been a loss... so now they sit as an example of how sometimes people ,no matter who they are...will just say 'fk it'..and give you garbage to make that dollar.
 
I don’t believe Herbert has ground any cams in-house for many years.

My understanding is that they are/were done at Ruben Racing Cams.
 
Re: So who is Ruben racing cams?
Post by W.Todd » Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:58 am

Ruben was the cam grinder at Chet Herbert Cams.The masters belonged to Chet but he paid Ruben to grind the cams.Then Ruben bought the cam grinder and the masters from Chet,but he still made all of the roller cams for Chet.
Ruben finally moved out of Chet's building to another location in Anaheim.

Then Donnie Johansen moved his cam grinder into the building and started making the cams for Chet.
After a couple of years,I think Donnie recv'd a large sum of money from an estate and then sold the cam grinder to someone else. <new Howards?>
But I think Donnie was seperate and Howard's was already sold>

As far as I know,Ruben still grinds the roller cams for Doug using Chet's masters and the Herbert name.I sold a lot of Chet's cams for 10 years and had a return of less than 1%.His cams made a lot of torque and horsepower for circle track cars,street,bracket cars,marine and tractor pullers.Ruben has expanded the line of roller cams since Chet passed away.

Re: So who is Ruben racing cams?
Post by SchmidtMotorWorks » Sat Feb 19, 2011 12:59 pm

I don't think it is correct to say that Ruben only has old masters, he has a the capabilty to copy any cam he wants to and I assume he does that.
Ruben is more like a job-shop, a guy that manufactures cams at low prices and is happy to let others resell his work with thier name on it.
You won't find a nicer guy in the business if you come to him with with a request that he can do. he helped me out whan I was making my first cams.
That said, his business is about manufacturing, not engineering, if you need someone to spec out the cam to help design your combination

Ruben is not the guy to go to, go to someone like Jones for that.

If you need 10 or a 100 cams a month and price is the most important factor, go to Ruben.

Re: So who is Ruben racing cams??
Post by bigjoe1 » Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:49 am
"Last time I ran one, it was 55 HP LESS than a good Comp Cams profile I like"

On the 55 Hp deal, the Comp Cams grind was a newer design, as opposed to the Herbert that was a 30 or more years old grind they have been making forever= Similiar duration at 050 though

JOE SHERMAN RACING (Joe is a go to expert on chevy cams)

RIP CHET
 
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Above I commented that Donnie Johansen had sold Howard's Cams to the new Howards
then...
Howard's Cams

Post by UDHarold » Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:57 pm

I have just gotten off the phone with them, and they bought the whole kit and kaboodle from Custom Camshafts, Inc, of Martinsville, Va.
This includes the Landis 3L, the Adcole, all the cores and spare parts,
and over 100 of my cam designs.
I will know more over the next few days.

UDHarold
 
I bought a used Herbert solid roller for a 383 SBC I put together years ago.
The specs were something like:
275/285-108, .625/.625.

What it measured was:
280/284-106, .615/.615.

I had a customer who bought one new from Doug Herbert for a 440 Mopar.
I dont remember what the issue was that lead to doing this, but I told him how far off mine was from “spec”, so he checked his out.
It was even farther off from the specs than mine...... enough so that we kinda felt like it was ground using the wrong masters.
 
I just ordered a cam from Ken at Oregon Cam grinders. Great to deal with so far. As long as things come as expected I will be very happy!

Cley
 
you should be fine with a hands on grinder
a little food for thought
I've posted on trying to compare a tight lash cam to a 30-30 when both are speced at .020

so
Post by CamKing » Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:39 pm

This is Why since 1979, we have never used a .020" duration number to classify our cams.
We use the actual seat duration(Hot Lash divided by rocker ratio).
Tight lash or loose lash, it doesn't matter.
When we say we're giving you a 296 seat duration cam, the valve will be open for 296 degrees. Our 296 degree tight lash, will keep the valve open the same amount of time as our 296 degree loose lash.
This makes it easy to compare all of our profiles.
With all the different lash's and different acceleration rates, the .020" number is useless.
Mike Jones
Jones Cam Designs

Denver, NC
jonescams@bellsouth.net
http://www.jonescams.com

I don't use .050 much for the same reason-.200 works for me
but I have access to a camdoc to get the seat to seat- etc
 
Numbers on paper are one thing...
Knowing what works is another.

Love my Herbert 'Ruben ground' solid roller.
It came with hair more lift but a hair less @.050 dur. I got all pissed at 1st..naturally..then I ran it...DAMN THAT M'FKR PULLED HARD AND KEPT!
I havent really been disappointed by any custom cam I've used...but I have been disappointed using 'off the shelf' cams...always lacked, always needed advanced to get some.
 
and it's possible to get a custom for the price of a high priced shelf cam from one of the major grinders
 
I just ordered a cam from Ken at Oregon Cam grinders. Great to deal with so far. As long as things come as expected I will be very happy!

Cley
I just pulled the trigger with Bullet, $213+ shipping, 3 week wait. They do signature required, otherwise they need an email from customer authorizing no sig required on delivery. Hoping the same, just glad my quest is over! Cams cams cams:eek:
 
Racer brown has great cams and lifter combos. They built performance cams for mopar back in the day and they can custom grind to your preferences. My motors always get them installed also. I like the purple shafts but super satisfied with my latest from racer brown. SSH-44. Its a hot 1!

I ran the Racer Brown SSH-44 camshaft in 3 different 426 Hemi cars. That old cam flat out worked. It woke those engine up. Strong all the way through the rpm band.....
 
I just pulled the trigger with Bullet, $213+ shipping, 3 week wait. They do signature required, otherwise they need an email from customer authorizing no sig required on delivery. Hoping the same, just glad my quest is over! Cams cams cams:eek:


You just going to tease us along or are you going to give up the specs???

You know WE ALL want to see them so we can critique, criticize, snivel, argue and then say yeah, that will work.

LOL you know that's what will happen!!!
 
You just going to tease us along or are you going to give up the specs???

You know WE ALL want to see them so we can critique, criticize, snivel, argue and then say yeah, that will work.

LOL you know that's what will happen!!!
Decided on an UltraDyne lobe N57, single pattern 255@.050”,172@.200”, 282adv @.020”, .388” lobe (.604” after lash w/1.6 rocker) on a 106lsa, likely install at 100 icl. Same as offered by Lunati but on a 106 instead of their 108lsa/102icl which are the same as was spec’d originally by Brookshire/Ultradyne. I Put them on a 106......cause that’s what I wanted.
 
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Decided on an UltraDyne lobe N57, single pattern 255@.050”,172@.200”, 282adv @.020”, .388” lobe (.604” after lash w/1.6 rocker) on a 106lsa, likely install at 100 icl. Same as offered by Lunati but on a 106 instead of their 108lsa/102icl, same as was spec’d originally by Brookshire/Ultradyne. Put on a 106......cause that’s what I wanted.


LOL. Pretty freaking cool.

That's essentially the same lobes I'm using. I lash at .014/.016 hot. And I'm on a 105 in at 105.

So.....even though are lobes are so similar as to be the same lobes, the two cams will act differently because of the LSA and ICL differences between the two.

That's why a custom cam is always better. Until you get your cam card and get the actual events can we see the real differences.

I think you'll be very happy with that lobe. It's about a Comp MM series lobe. And the LSA will make it a neck snapper in the mids.

This should be FUN.

Edit: forgot to mention I'm digging the single pattern too. I'm sure the lash difference between the intake and exhaust will change the timing a bit, but you didn't open up the exhaust and reduce intake timing and open the LSA to get the RPM back.

Very cool.
 
LOL. Pretty freaking cool.

That's essentially the same lobes I'm using. I lash at .014/.016 hot. And I'm on a 105 in at 105.

So.....even though are lobes are so similar as to be the same lobes, the two cams will act differently because of the LSA and ICL differences between the two.

That's why a custom cam is always better. Until you get your cam card and get the actual events can we see the real differences.

I think you'll be very happy with that lobe. It's about a Comp MM series lobe. And the LSA will make it a neck snapper in the mids.

This should be FUN.

Edit: forgot to mention I'm digging the single pattern too. I'm sure the lash difference between the intake and exhaust will change the timing a bit, but you didn't open up the exhaust and reduce intake timing and open the LSA to get the RPM back.

Very cool.
Yup, Comp, Lunati, and Bullet all the same lobes essentially from what I could see. The hotrodding around I do on the backroads/interstate is usually smack dab just at/in the mid range, lot of fun now, should be white knuckle fun soon! I don’t ring it out on the road or do from a stop blow the tires off launches, and as long as I can keep it hooked at the track as it does currently, usually jumping out in front of the other guy only to be out run by the hotter camarllangerststangs, now I hope for even more jump and actually pulling away from them on the top end. Will see.
 
For most mild builds or moderate street cars is mainly what I help people with, I’ve been using Lunati for years.
Cams seem to have a little more duration at .050 while keeping the overall duration down. Lift numbers seem a little higher.
So I assume they have a more aggressive opening rate. Works on Mopar and Chevys
Custom stuff I’ve used Bullit and Lunati, comp cams years ago had some problems with them.
 
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what did you spec for a billet from bullet?
I had it posted somewhere
Probably the R1 thread though it’s not the cam I’ll use on the x block in a year or so, next winter engine build that one is with some W5 heads. Have to think about that cam, as I’ve not built that large a small block.
I hope this works well in the Dart.
 
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