Shaun65dart
Well-Known Member
Back side of ignition switch
I have yet to clean the terminals in the bulkhead fitting.
What exactly will this do?
When I suggested running a wire from the alternator to the starter relay stud/ battery, that is a "quick way" to bypass a lot of trouble IE the "MAD BYPASS" in the referenced article.
Frankly my friend, "fixing" this is probably not the way to deal with it. I would SERIOUSLY be thinking of either rewiring the car with an aftermarket harness or looking for either used / good condition or "repop" factory harness.
Also, you have enough trouble going on here that you REALLY need to seek local help. What you need is the "virtual me" (or a guy like Maddox) that is local and can drop over there
When I suggested running a wire from the alternator to the starter relay stud/ battery, that is a "quick way" to bypass a lot of trouble IE the "MAD BYPASS" in the referenced article.
Frankly my friend, "fixing" this is probably not the way to deal with it. I would SERIOUSLY be thinking of either rewiring the car with an aftermarket harness or looking for either used / good condition or "repop" factory harness.
Also, you have enough trouble going on here that you REALLY need to seek local help. What you need is the "virtual me" (or a guy like Maddox) that is local and can drop over there
Morning! Yes!Did a little research. These two connections are in the wrong position and should be reversed. Could this be my problem?
View attachment 1715114067
Thank you for your thoughts. I will do what I believe is best and I will FIX this situation I am dealing with.
Well, the field wire is now getting zero volts on the ALT and the VR. Like I said it seemed to be working then it smoked and hasn’t worked since. With the key off, the contacts on the VR stay open. As soon as the VR receives power with the key on, the contacts close. With the key on if I manually open the contacts, the field wire gets 12 volts
Thought this was almost fixed, starting to get frustrated
Engine running or not?Well, the field wire is now getting zero volts on the ALT and the VR. Like I said it seemed to be working then it smoked and hasn’t worked since. With the key off, the contacts on the VR stay open. As soon as the VR receives power with the key on, the contacts close. With the key on if I manually open the contacts, the field wire gets 12 volts
Thought this was almost fixed, starting to get frustrated
These regulators control positive (feed) to alternator's field.The regulator feeds +voltage to alt to energize it?
Or it uses ground to energize?
There was probably a little more going on than just the reversed between IGN 1 & 2. As best we can tell, the modifications were working OK until the other night. I'm not saying it was good design, but it worked and now it doesn't. So we're missing something(s).The push button start was added most likely to bypass the ignition switch because it was wired incorrectly. There is a brown wire by the valve cover that I don’t know what it is for although it runs with the insulation that all other wires by the valve cover are with.
That's not a bad location for the Petronix. At least its switched on/off with the ignition switch. If it drew a lot of current (like an MSD does) it would eventually be a problem, but my guess is that it doesn't. (There are 3 versions of Petronix. If you want to check on power needs, see if you can ID which version it is.)The Petronix is going to the ballast resistor which it really doesn’t need to be, same with the tach wire.
Ok the brown wire that was unidentified alongside the valve cover has now been traced. It is actually a grey wire that travels with the green, purple, two blue, and black wires. It is for the oil pressure switch which is no longer in action because an aftermarket mechanical gauge is being used