Changed intake gasket, now it won't start

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Ok. All ready to put the top back on.

Who votes to use right stuff around the gasket cutouts?

I will be using right stuff on the front and back. Double stacked this time! Gaskets are fine and didn't need to come off.

I'm just going to let the heat burn up the gasket over the middle hole.

image.jpeg


Here is that weird cream goop. It is in one spot inside the engine. Will wipe it out but seems weird that it is basically in the middle of the motor. Looks like mold.

image.jpeg
 
use it around the water jackets.... all 4 of them, both sides of the gasket. just takes a thin amount.
I also put a thin layer of indian head around the intake ports on both sides of the gasket.
This has worked for me on many, many intake swaps. However, each one has to choose their own way.
 
Ok. Stacked three lines. Thickest at bottom. Also around the water openings.

This should be good ( knock on wood)
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 

Looks like you have plenty of RTV there, I am still wondering if the leak was not from the plastic oil pressure line??????????
 
Yes the right stuff, anybody on this forum knows I'm a big advocate of this ATV. But in the same respect you are putting three layers on top of each other and it takes a little while for this to get to it full strength and potential. If you were just putting a thin layer on your thermostat housing sure clamp it down and take off.
WSUTARD said:
It's Right Stuff. Directions say you can use immediately. But I won't be driving it for a day anyway.
Click to expand...
 
j par said:
Yes the right stuff, anybody on this forum knows I'm a big advocate of this ATV. But in the same respect you are putting three layers on top of each other and it takes a little while for this to get to it full strength and potential. If you were just putting a thin layer on your thermostat housing sure clamp it down and take off.
Click to expand...
Good to know. Thank you.
 
One might even wonder if the center will ever dry ?

I mean if the outside hardens,it seals in the center, right?

How did the old bead look, solid inside or mushie like a undercooked brownie ?

Oh, and some of those intake bolts go into the oil gallery if there is no sealant on there maybe that could cause that milky substance your seeing?
 
Last edited:
diymirage said:
One might even wonder if the center will ever dry ?

I mean if the outside hardens,it seals in the center, right?

How did the old bead look, solid inside or mushie like a undercooked brownie ?

Oh, and some of those intake bolts go into waterjackets, if there is no sealant on there that could cause that milky substance your seeing
Click to expand...
So I need to seal them? With what and which ones?
 
I am very impressed that you chose to tackle the job yourself. You get a BIG thumbs up from me. Just wait till you get it all back together and it is FIXED. There is no amount of paying somebody to do it that will bring you the same satisfaction.
 
Oh yeah it dries all the way through just try and take that off in a couple of months after a few heat Cycles LOL ask me how I know?! As a matter of fact if you didn't have to use something to cut that seal with and pry that thing off damn near breaking everything that should have been your sign that it wasn't sealed on correctly. I just put a little finger full on each one of the bolts before I put it in and it's sealed with the right stuff.
diymirage said:
One might even wonder if the center will ever dry ?

I mean if the outside hardens,it seals in the center, right?

How did the old bead look, solid inside or mushie like a undercooked brownie ?

Oh, and some of those intake bolts go into the oil gallery if there is no sealant on there maybe that could cause that milky substance your seeing?
Click to expand...
 
Got it running. started really rough, backed the timing down to +2, still rough, as it ran the idle smoothed out. Took it for a spin, it was still a tad rough, idle was super high, stopped to adjust that back down. The engine would rev (didn't go above 3) but it felt like the normal power wasnt there. Coming up the hill to my house, I head what sounded like a nut hitting the undercarriage, then the engine stuttered, then evened back out. Pulling up my driveway I noticed that the driver side exhaust was spitting out smoke which it never did before.

Also noticed that there was smoke that looked like it was coming out one of the spark plugs on the driver side. Might have been crap burning off the headers, not sure.

I dont have a good feeling about it right now.
 
cool - sounds like your timing is too low - most require 10-15 advanced. Hopefully the nut noise wasn't a torque converter bolt loosening up on ya.. are the intake leaks gone?
 
ScampMike said:
cool - sounds like your timing is too low - most require 10-15 advanced. Hopefully the nut noise wasn't a torque converter bolt loosening up on ya.. are the intake leaks gone?
Click to expand...
The intake leaks look to be cured. It was at a timing of 10 and running bad. Pushed it back and it got a tad better. It has no power but will run. I think there might be a spark issue now.
 
Some data and more info is needed at this point; I don't think anyone here has the history of the underlying problem(s).
- How about some history in this engine?
- What were the symptoms prior to changing the intake?
- Has the engine run well before?
- What idle RPM now?
- How did you check for the spark in post #1? If you connect a wire to a plug in open air, that is not a valid test. You need to see if a spark will jump a 1/4" to 3/8" gap in open air.
- Have you checked the vacuum level in the manifold after the gasket change? If not, get a vacuum gauge and check it at idle.
- Going backwards on the timing and having it run better is odd/unusual.

This is going to need an approach of gathering accurate baseline info.
 
Just an update for everyone. It is running now. I ran the timing from 0-10 and it likes 8 best.

I'm still diagnosing some issues that I hope are just in my head. The normal idle seems to fluctuate for some reason. I have it set to about 750 but sometimes it will be a tad more or less.

Also, it sounds like the engine isn't running even though the cylinders. the following video is a cold idle but shows the uneven sound I am talking about. It smooths out a tad once warm but I can still hear the unevenness.


Also, here is some engine shake that is also kind of weird in my opinion. My cam has been described to me as moderate so I would expect some even shake but you can see in the video it is not even.

Here is audio of the engine accelerating. You can hear the exhaust and the engine noise since there was a rock wall to the passenger side. It is an even acceleration plus a bump up to about 3500 toward the end.

Not sure if these actually help or not. Feel free to tell my I'm being picky.
 
Ohh to answer one of the last posts.
Engine was rebuilt 5 years ago. Was running fine when I bought it 2 months ago but it had a vacuum leak at the intake manifold.

Vacuum is 9 at 750 idle. 16 at 1500.

I checked cold compression prior to removing the intake. Ranged from 125 to 155 which I have been told is within tolerance.

I think I will check it again when warm.

Spark was checked by air and ground to the block. It's running now so I assume the spark is ok. I guess it could be weak but the spark is blue.
 
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