Chrysler Newport 1975 360 - 2 barrel - misfire? running problems

[George Jets]

Here is a trick:

Ebay Item Number:
150755120612

New valves and knurl the worn exhaust guides back to the stock 3/8" valve stem size helps to restore worn valve guide tolerances.

With the new valves and restored guides, that's 3/4s of your new valve job.

Touch the hardened valve seats to clean them up, then lap the new valves to them.

New valve stem seals, then good to go.

Ebay Item Number:
252175009727

People want to save some money and do things for themselves... here is a way to go.

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[Johny]

The car is used occasionally. Annual mileage, I don't think, is more than 1,000 miles. I want to get the engine back in working order without incurring significant costs. I have other, more serious projects to complete now.
I have good machinist, here are photos of my Caddy 3a heads. I am sure heads for Chrysler will be the same.

 

[George Jets]

Good to pour Sea Foam on top of the pistons in the cylinders while you are waiting for your heads to be done.

Helps to break down the built up carbon around the piston rings, loosens them up, and helps return lower end needed compression and cylinder seal.

Less oil will be getting sucked past the rings too. You will want to change oil right away as it is going to be really black from the carbon running down from the cylinders.

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[Johny]

George you mean this sea foam? This is good idea to clean pistons, move rings etc. I have ordered also double roller timing chain kit.

Today I have cleaned heads with hard acid chemical and hot water.

 

[George Jets]

Seafoam like this:

Engine oil and gasoline treatment. Available at local automotive stores. Hardware stores carry it too.


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[Johny]

Today I picked up the cylinder heads from machining. New valves, guides, and valve seals. Heads were checked for leaks and cracks. The gasket surface was planed.

I need the torque specs for the head bolts? My engine is 360 , 1975.

I have changed timing chain for double roller, as someone suggested.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Be very careful when reinstalling the timing cover. There one of the bolts down low on the driver's side that if you use the wrong bolt in (too long) it will run right into the #1 cylinder wall and crack it. That would suck. I'm unsure exactly which bolt hole it is. I THINK it's the second one up from the bottom on the driver's side. I'm sure one of these other fellas can confirm or deny that for sure.

 

[Dana67Dart]

it will run right into the #1 cylinder wall and crack it

Don't forget sealant on the bolts

 

[RustyRatRod]

I think you are thinking of water pump bolts. The ones that say sealant on the left are the ones that go into the water jacket and can hit the cyl wall

View attachment 1716553326

It's a shorter one than 4.5-5". I'm almost 100% positive it's the second one from the bottom on the driver's side. Almost, but not quite. lol

 

[Dana67Dart]

I'm almost 100% positive it's the second one from the bottom on the driver's side. Almost, but not quite. lol

I beleive you....
That hole lines up with the cyl whereas the two around the water pump passage don't

RRR your the man!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I beleive you....
That hole lines up with the cyl whereas the two around the water pump passage don't

RRR your the man!
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You got the wrong side circled. It's the second from the bottom on the driver's side. At least I believe that's it. Remember, the side with #1 is always further forward, so a bolt would hit that side first.

 

[Dana67Dart]

You got the wrong side circled. It's the second from the bottom on the driver's side. At least I believe that's it. Remember, the side with #1 is always further forward, so a bolt would hit that side first.

I'm sure you are correct...

Fixed

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

I'm sure you are correct...

Fixed

Think we need to start calling RRR "the professor"!

 

[dr dodge]

Think we need to start calling RRR "the professor"!

 

[toolmanmike]

Raise the hood when it's dark out and start the engine and look for plug wires arcing. Usually a misfire as you describe is secondary ignition. That's easy and free to do and after that, you should run a compression test.

And a squirt bottle with water will really make them jump.

 

[Johny]

I have painted heads with vht enamel SP 135.

I cleaned pistons with Xado, cheap and not bad at all.

Heads have been tightened 95 ft lbs in three steps.

 

[Dana67Dart]

is that a cracked lifter bore????

 

[RustyRatRod]

is that a cracked lifter bore????

View attachment 1716554518

The one across from it is the same way. I believe that's a parting line in the casting.

 

[Killer6]

I have painted heads with vht enamel SP 135.

I cleaned pistons with Xado, cheap and not bad at all.

Heads have been tightened 95 ft lbs in three steps.

View attachment 1716554454

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View attachment 1716554460

Be sure the heat-riser is FREE & working in the exhaust manny if present, I've seen the exhaust seats cracked on cyls. #4 & #5 because the flap stuck closed & they kept driving, all of the exhaust from that bank was going thru' those 2 exh.valves to get out the other side...

 

[Johny]

There is no crack . It is typical casting defect.

I have delated heat-riser forever.

 

[Dana67Dart]

There is no crack . It is typical casting defect.

I have delated heat-riser forever.

Glad not a crack

Yu will not miss the heat riser. I'm in Northern Colorado and my 273 starts and runs fine with out a functioning heat riser, even started it at -10 F (-23C) no issues

 

[Johny]

I have some problem with timing marks. Maybe I do something wrong... I put timing sprocket like it was before. It was non oryginal timing set.

When the dots on sprockets are align - on 1 cylinder( 1st front of the car driver side) is exhaust stroke.

I took off everythink, leave 1st cyl tdc, rotare camshaft to the end of compression stroke the dot is upper side ....

 

[Dana67Dart]

Engine timing is separate from ignition timing.

If the cam and crank sprockets are aligned dot to dot (6 cam to 12 crank) the engine is timed (there can be only one!!!! extra points if you know the movie quote) Or if you time it 12 O'clock and 12 O'clock then rotate the crack the correct number of revelations it will be back at dot to dot (6 to 12)

The main reason for dot to dot is ease of visual alignment, the 2 dots near each other are less likely to be off a tooth than 12 and 12 or any other option.

AFTER the engine is timed then you need to know where TDC of the #1 cyl on the compression stroke is to install the dist.


There is a thing where you time the engine and rotate some amount and now the engine is ready to have the dist dropped in. RRR is the master of that IIRC

 

[Bewy]

If you are not sure about timing chain/sprocket installation, there are plenty of videos on the web...

 

[RustyRatRod]

Lined up dot to dot is 180 out. You want the crank sprocket dot at 12 o'clock and cam sprocket dot at 12 o'clock. That's timed up on #1. The reason it is always 6 and 12 in every manual is for ease of aligning the dots. Then, all you have to do is rotate the crank ONE revolution and you have the engine timed to #1. If you install the distributor pointing to #1 with the dots 12 and 6, you'll be 180 out.