Do your TTI or other Headers look like this?

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LXguy

LXguy

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Hey:

Just got my TTIs. The pinch down really bad by the exhaust port on at least a couple of tubes. Does anyone know of headers that *don't* do this? I'm trying to make some horsepower here, and this restriction is not acceptable to me.


IMG_0333.jpg


IMG_0338.jpg
 
If im looking at that correctly that is needed to get you header bolt in there no?
I have CPPAs which are close to the same,they are the same way.
 
What HP level are you talking about. If it's more than about 525-530, you have the wrong headers anyways...

Without the dimpling, you won't get the bolts in the headers.

You'd be surprised how far you can crush a tube and still have it perform.

Those dimples aren't big deal.
 
Ive installed TTI's b4 and they were exactly the same. Like was said its for the header bolts. Good luck and get us some pics when you get em in!!
 
crackedback said:
What HP level are you talking about. If it's more than about 525-530, you have the wrong headers anyways...
Click to expand...

What are the right headers for 525+ horsepower?

I'm not looking to make that much, but I don't want the headers stealing what I am making.

Steve
 
Headers are for sure not my area of expertise. But ive been warned in the past about going to big and losing low end torque.
 
All headers do that unless you have a custom set up on a wide bolt spaceing. AKA - W-2
 
LXguy said:
What are the right headers for 525+ horsepower?

I'm not looking to make that much, but I don't want the headers stealing what I am making.

Steve
Click to expand...

Don't worry about the dimples at the levels you are trying to run. They won't steal anything. The bends right off the ports will hurt more than any of the dimples.
 
for over 525hp I would be looking for a 1-7/8" tube or at least a 1-3/4 to 1-7/8" stepped tube.
 
70dart said:
i have heard the term stepped header before what exactly is this and what does it looked like?
Click to expand...

You can kind of see it in the pics I have posted. A little ways down the tube there's a line of weld bead. That is where the tube goes from being 1-5/8" to 1-3/4.

The supposed advantage is that you get good velocity from the small initial diameter, then get added flow from the larger later diameter.
 
a step header starts out at the flange with with a small diameter pipe, then as it progresses downward away from the flange the diameter is increased. for instance you may start with 1 5/8" tube near the flange, then as the headers progress away from tne flange the size will increase to 1 3/4"
 
If I am looking at the pics correctly, it appears that they have "blued" a bit as well. TTI claims not to use there ceramachrome headers for break in. It would be a pain in the *** switching them after break in. I guess if it is advanced to much or to rich, not really sure about that. I do know that our coatings are baked in our oven at 500 degrees which doesn't totally cure them, they finish curing on the car.We require that upon initial start up, bring it operating temp, and run it for 5 min., shut down and cool, then is complete
ceramic coat heads here and we do a two part coating here at the shop.
first we blast them inside and out
them we bake them to out gas them
coat the inside with 2000 degree heat stop
then coat the outside with the following choices
flat black
satin black
semi black
or ceramachrome, which is like a silver and them put through a polisher to get the chrome luster. They look just like jet hot or TTI's
 
That's probably a combination of my garage floor being blue and the crappy camera in my cell phone. These headers have not been run.

I got the headers at Mopar Madness, or rather I ordered them from Mancini at the show. They gave me 10% off retail, so they were about $675, plus $75.00 shipping.

I'm heavily debating sending them back, as I'm pretty disappointed in the quality. They're 3 bolt collector, the flange isnt thick, they have the O-ring type seal at the flange (which sucks compared to flat). In short, all the same features as the cheaper stuff that's $150.00 (plus coating).

I ordered some Hookers yesterday. If they look less restrictive than these, the TTIs are going back.

Maybe my expectations are too high. Here's the last set of headers I paid $700 for. Granted the engine compartment in a Fairlane is not as tight as a Dart, but these things were gorgeous. I don't have pics of the inside of the flange, but it was awesome!

IMG_1015.jpg
 
what's wrong with an o-ring type of seal? I'm not being a smart ***, just asking.
 
I am considering TTI as well, let us know how it turns out.
I was going to go for Schumacher, but I read somewhere that they were actually TTI:

http://www.engine-swaps.com/
 
have TTI stoped using there nice and thick flanges?
those thick welded 3bolt flanges are not a problem keeping sealed, thin floating 3bolt flanges like hooker and flowtech are alitle hard to keep sealed...
i do aggre that floting 2bolt flanges with a maleball/femaleball (stop laughing that is the proper words for it) conector are the best sealing and will never need gaskets,but those thick welded flanges are good!
i understand the need for a flat flange when runing thin flanges against the cylinder head but those flatground welded orings work surprisingly well on thick flanges..
most headers for a smallblock mopar have dents aroung the port to gain bolt clerance and if you have ever worked with standard hooker competion headers and then a set of ttis retourqquing those bolts when hot you will understand the bennefit of making those dents slightly bigger than hooker does,
as has been writen before that dent is not a problem for flow compared to that tight bend right outside the port
 
3404speed said:
what's wrong with an o-ring type of seal? I'm not being a smart ***, just asking.
Click to expand...


on most "cheaper" headers with thin flanges against the cylinder head having those welded in orings gives the flange a good reason to start bending and to start leaking, that is not as big of a problem with flat flanges.
with thicker flanges that just wont bend or warp that is not a problem and it will actualy compress the gaskets alitle better around the port
 
What is a floting 2bolt flanges with a maleball/femaleball conector?
I think I know but I want to be sure.
I also heard that original manifolds do not need gaskets, came from the factory without, and work better that way.
I even bought a set of copper gaskets and they don't fit.
So, for headers and manifolds, gasket or no gasket?
 
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