Separate names with a comma.
If you are referring to the Hookers, there will be a 5303 stamped on the flange.
Good, cause I got a pair! Never gonna fit a >66 A now that I modded them for a 65 but the slip fit collector is genius: You snake and screw the tubes all in there with the motor already in and then you barely bolt them on. Next you slide the collector onto the loose pipes and then tighten the flange bolts. The system hangers wont let the collector slip off and you got a superior big ass pipe header for your stroker or high winding LA. Pro-parts headers for the B/RB A crowd had tabs that overlapped and took a lock bolt, just tack weld those on if your scared the collector will blow off. If you think you'll have a leak, just run a thin smear of ultra copper RTV in there, seals it up good. Multi pipe headers are also easy to mod as its just one pipe to take out and ding or shorten/bend/? and then you can slide it in and see your results. lather-rinse-repeat.
I am sorry to hear this, this is what happened with the set I mentioned.I have been extremely happy with dougs in the past but the last set left me pretty unhappy especially with their customer service so I understand the frustration.It didn't help much now that their prices are much higher,where is the quality to match?..
Are those the 5302? I got ones like these...have to rebuild the #3 tube to clear my 65 steering box. Modded #5 to hug the block more to go behind the steering box. I got them for $25 as the bottoms of the passenger side collector is scraped flat and the pipes look like D's. But the collector comes off to reform the pipes, winner winner! IIRC Hookers are welded in Mexico..maybe they should be called 'Talonador'.
I snatch those headers up every time I find them. And I keep a bunch of 1.875 tube here to repair them as you already know...they are always flat. My favorite non W2 header for sure. Pain the arse to get in the car but they fit nice and make power once they are on.
I feel your pain needed to modify tubes 5&7 paid $650 coated than to get them repaired paid another $600 after all was done. Criminal ,see bottom of headers had to massage them for torsion bar clearance tube 7 was hitting steering column and no matter what I did it just wouldn’t fit cut half way down 5-7 tubes and swapped them around ,it gave me the room.
I would have needed to be sedated! That is unreal!
Called Trick Flow today asking if maybe the head is ever so slightly wider on the exhaust side, I spoke to Howard and his answer was, I don't think so, have not heard of that. Well with that, someone who has a TFS head and a stock one on the bench could maybe find a way to check for sure. So the question is not really answered yet. There you have it.
I don't think so! Wow!...
sum ting wong
Even if it is it would be so little it would have no effect.I had edelbrock heads,stock heads and now trickflows all with dougs headers and have not seen any substantial difference between them (the stock heads and trickflows same headers same car).You have to understand the tech doesnt have a blueprint in front of him and there are production tolerances as well.If the engine is right,the mounts are right and the overall fitment is right it is the headers.
You do realize if the angle of the header surface was changed even one degree that would translate into a substantial amount of movement at the other end of the header...?..
Check your stock heads and report back to me lol.
A cheap Summit headers fit great on my stock heads one ding on the passenger side at the torsion bar... actually that was after using them for a couple years and my friend seen it at the lineup shop and used his Ratatat tool...
Given the severity of the ops header fitment issues if all the engine/trans measurements are right it is the headers.I had the same issues with a set of dougs and I also had a cheap set on my old duster that I had to beat the hell out of and eventually replaced them with another cheap set on the same car/same engine and they fit fine,no issues. That's the thing with this is even the stock stuff isn't perfect but if the engine is in right and the headers are built right they should have enough room built into them that they will be close but clear even when things are not perfect.We all know that's not always the case but until the boys at nascar decide to build every part for our cars from the ground up we are stuck making it work.
It would be great if someone would do a install with say a Summit header and then a Doug's back to back on a A body. If I were reading this forum and was trying to decide what header to buy it would not be Doug's, with the chance of beating headers up just go with the cheaper brand. If I were to do it again I would just but a cheap one and make it work. Polished stainless steel on Ebay for under 200.00 shipped. I bought OBX long tubes a few years ago for one of my Fox body cars and they are very nice polished stainless steel.One little dimple to clear the steering shaft and they fit nice.Most of these headers on E bay are just copy's of the headman's.
Anyone buying a 8qrt pan isnt trying hard to be very stock or unmodified. That's point of buying/needing that pan, you're beyond stock. You have to lop off the pass side front corner and weld a flat pc. over it about 3 1/2 point to point to point triangle...then the drivers side where the sump is seamed...you have to, or should, cut a line where it pops out a hair...and then pop it in some with a mallet...and then weld that seam up... okay... now you are about ready, right after you..notch or drill a 3/4 hole or half moon from the pass side front sump baffle so that dip stick will go in straight and give you an accurate reading. If the name is on a banner hanging on the wall of any race track... you're not in Kansas anymore...
Again I was naive I don't think I needed that pan whatsoever. I was talked into it by my engine builder. Just to cover his ass... Probably come to find out in a long-running anyways...