Feeler Thread Tubular K Members for Stock suspensions.

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for a car that will get driven 5 miles to the local burger joint and back will you notice?
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i agree, may as well keep the stock 6 cyl in those cars also. seriously, what does anyone need 600 hp to drive that 5 miles ?

but people like me that actually drive their cars its a huge improvement, i didn't do it for the weight savings (thats an added bonus) but to modernize my car. i drive the **** out of mine. take it on 2-3 + hour one way cruises multiple times during the season.


Don't know for sure but I read in one of the Mopar mags it is 95-120 pounds lighter depending on options and brakes used over a stock manual steering suspension.
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it depends like you said, what your starting with and the options you elect when installing the alter-k.... its not the stock k-frame that weighs so much its all the crap thats needed for the steering thats heavy compared to a rack. steering box,idler and pitman arms, inner and outer tie rods and sleeves, center link, strut rods,torsion bars...etc... look at all the stuff eliminated when going to a rack and coil overs.
 
abodyjoe said:
take it on 2-3 + hour one way cruises multiple times during the season.
/QUOTE]Come on now AbodyJoe, I spent 27 years in NJ, 2-3 hour one way cruise is what,considering the traffic, about 15 miles or so??????:toothy10::toothy10::toothy10:
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Chris said:
Careful putting the rack on the front. I don't think you can push the tie rod ends out far enough to get back the lost ackerman (tire/wheel will get in the way). Ackerman is somewhat important if you want to turn. In a straight line its probably OK. I would love to see you succeed, but steering/suspension geometry shouldn't take a back seat to fitment.
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Most (cant say all, I am sure there is something out there with it) front steer cars have no Ackerman angle and some factory rack cars have - Ackerman. Just ask a Chevelle owner (I happen to own one). I did front end alignment and frame repair for many years. The only draw back to lack of Ackerman angle is that your turning radius gets bigger. On paper Ackerman angle is very important, in real life its not so much.

inkjunkie said:
I think it is kind of comical people are saying that the oem k-frame is heavy. To replace the thing to save a few pounds will be an expensive proposition, unless you are building an all out race car. I read somewhere that the total weight savings between an oem, non power steering car and an alter k is only 50-60 pounds. For the price of it, I would just as soon skip a few Big Macs. No doubt the car will steer better with a rack in it, but again, for a car that will get driven 5 miles to the local burger joint and back will you notice?
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The Oem K frame with a manual box and linkage is over 100 pounds. I just weighed mine and my Chromoly K-frame is 6 pounds. Granted my goal is a drag race piece that will see easy street miles. If I was a corner carver like Joe I would go with the RMS kit. 50-60 pounds is a conservative estimate and I can tell you from experience that 50 pounds off the nose of your car is tremendous! For me its worth the effort. All in all everyone has their ideas of what is cool and what is streetable and what is acceptable. So I dont think that this K-frame is not for all and if your a drag racer weight is very important. Dont knock us for go to extremes to make our cars as fast as possible. By the way, my definition of a street car is one that has license plates, PERIOD. Lol!
 
Not knocking anybody......fully understand about shaving weight........as far as plates equalling a street car, well, to each his own. No stranger to people building extreme vehicles http://rnhlongtravel.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=1348 . Quess it is all in what you want.........keep in mind not every one has the ability to build or the wallets to buy some of these high end parts. That being said, for us mere mortals we have to weigh is what you get worth what you spend.....Need another beer......
 
inkjunkie said:
abodyjoe said:
take it on 2-3 + hour one way cruises multiple times during the season.
/QUOTE]Come on now AbodyJoe, I spent 27 years in NJ, 2-3 hour one way cruise is what,considering the traffic, about 15 miles or so??????:toothy10::toothy10::toothy10:
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HA! That's why I leave at 4am and get out of jersey to do 2-3 hour cruises. Get to the surekill after 6am and your screwed. Lol
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abodyjoe said:
inkjunkie said:
HA! That's why I leave at 4am and get out of jersey to do 2-3 hour cruises. Get to the surekill after 6am and your screwed. Lol
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The Post Office I was employed at was 4 miles from my apartment. To work at 6 a.m. was a 7 minute ride. Most days I did not leave until 4:30 p.m.. that ride was close to 45 minutes.....don't miss that traffic one bit.....
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johnparts said:
and I want to put these parts out there for the aveage guy to be able to get them
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Then dont price it out of reach.Wouldnt it be better to sell 4 k frames at say $650-700 each than 1 at $950? Maybe organize a group buy here for Fabo members and give us a deep discount? Need some test subjects for fitment etc?
 
needsaresto said:
Then dont price it out of reach.Wouldnt it be better to sell 4 k frames at say $650-700 each than 1 at $950? Maybe organize a group buy here for Fabo members and give us a deep discount? Need some test subjects for fitment etc?
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When did $950 come out of my mouth? I'm hoping for a 6-7 hundred dollar range. I will do a group buy when they are ready and I will give you guys deep discounts on them for being members here.
 
Hey if thats the price range it's definitly a good buy. Soooo much mopar stuff is priced ridiculously high. This really needs to change.
 
johnparts said:
When did $950 come out of my mouth? I'm hoping for a 6-7 hundred dollar range. I will do a group buy when they are ready and I will give you guys deep discounts on them for being members here.
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Sounds good. Anxious to see what you've come up with.
Hoping my Firm Feel PS box and RMS tubular upper A-arms are compatible.
 
Well I think the idea here is to have a k frame thats compatible with all stock susp pieces and has the option of going to rack and pinion so if your firm fell and rms stuff worked with your stock K frame,should be "in theory" no problem.In the field trying to bolt it all together is a different thing.Anyone ever trying to bolt on that cheap aluminized Walker exhaust pipe knows what I mean. Just cuz the catalogue and part # say it fits dont make it so
 
I think the biggest obsticle will be the fact that chrysler uses a rear steer steering arm. Most aftermarket go with a front steer rack and a front steer spindle and basically starting from scratch on the geometry to work right. The front steer gets everything out of the way for headers and gives the steering linkage a path out of the way. I have been working on a custom setup for my 6.1 hemi to fit and will be designed around a front steer spindle. Making a stock setup with the oddball balljoint-steering arms and female ended lower control arm designed for rear steer to work would be more expensive in the long run, first thing that comes to mind would be a custom rack to keep bumpsteer in check would be big bucks. At least we have the short-long arm setup to work off of .
 
i know i would like to have 1 for the new project big block.if the price is right im in but i just cannt see paying all that money for 1 when you can get 1 for brand x for 1/3 the price when some are made in the same place.. i know its cause they are more being got but if you price mopar stuff the same youll sell more just like x thats jsut my thoughts...so keep up the good work and keep at it. mike
 
Mad Dart said:
I am with you on that one and I am not laughing!!:angry7:
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Can't drive it on a dirt road (I live on one) and make the 40 mile or so one way trip to town it ain't no street car to me. Need to be able to stop at any gas station also.......you guys need to get out of the sun:toothy10::toothy10:
 
blown71duster said:
I think the biggest obsticle will be the fact that chrysler uses a rear steer steering arm. Most aftermarket go with a front steer rack and a front steer spindle and basically starting from scratch on the geometry to work right. The front steer gets everything out of the way for headers and gives the steering linkage a path out of the way. I have been working on a custom setup for my 6.1 hemi to fit and will be designed around a front steer spindle. Making a stock setup with the oddball balljoint-steering arms and female ended lower control arm designed for rear steer to work would be more expensive in the long run, first thing that comes to mind would be a custom rack to keep bumpsteer in check would be big bucks. At least we have the short-long arm setup to work off of .
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You can swith the lower ball jount arms side to side and make the steering in the front.
 
inkjunkie said:
abodyjoe said:
take it on 2-3 + hour one way cruises multiple times during the season.
/QUOTE]Come on now AbodyJoe, I spent 27 years in NJ, 2-3 hour one way cruise is what,considering the traffic, about 15 miles or so??????:toothy10::toothy10::toothy10:
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joe does drive his car that far look at his pics driving it the the ocean city maryland car shows
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