fr. and rr. sway bars

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swing69

fightin' socialism
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Hi, what are the options / cost for early A front and rear sway bars? individuals and as a set.... Rear is with a 8.75 rear (not 7.25)

Best fit; easy install.

Also; is it really worth putting on a rear sway bar for "normal" street use? no autocross or anything...

thanks
 
I was thinking about front/rear sway bars also, just as you for street use only. In my "heavy" Ebody, I added a large diameter front sway bar, moved the battery to the trunk (went to a larger battery too for extra weight) and removed power steering from front. Car handles very well, corners nearly flat with little body roll.
At this point the car handles so well I dont see a need for a rear sway bar.
Maybe this approach would work for you.
 
Put front bar on first and see what happens. You may not need a rear bar for most driving. It also depends on many other factors. Springs, Wheels and tires, car balance, small block or big block, shocks, and some others that escape me at this time. Get the best front bar that you can. Best might mean better install kit or knowing what you must do to install in your type of car. Hellwig products have least install issues IMHO. Addco is lowest price, but will need some welding and other work for best install. Look for install pictures on cars like yours and read what others liked or dis-liked. I did install a front bar Addco on a 66 Barracuda with some welding. I have not driven it yet.
 
The best fit & easy install is to replace the LCA with ones that have the say bar tabs. Get a 1.125" bar that uses the factory mounts.

There are kits out there that have tabs that attach to the LCA via the lower shock bolt. The ADDCO tabs are a bit flimsy. Someone on another thread posted pix of the Hotchkiss tabs. They look a little more substantial.

If you have or are planning a BBP disk brake conversion, I've heard problems with interference between the calipers and bars that use a shock mount tab. I've heard of no such problem with drum or KH calipers.

If you're not charging into or through corners, the rear bar is not necessary.
 
in the disk conversion; you can mount the single piston calipers to the front or rear of the spindle. what's your guys preference? to the rear to clear a sway bar?
 
Swing,

On mine I looked the front calipers are on the back of the wheel and the sway bar is well below the front brake set up. No issues with room. No bar in the back and really no need for it with the nice 8.25 rear it ride and turns nice. I am going to a Mopar Club meet tomorrow and many will be enjoying its rarity and the story behind it! She runs like a rabbit every time I pump the pedal twice and start it up! Also with the rally wheels and big tires on it looks cool!

65Cudalover
 
The Formula S has a factory sway bar. Would it benefit me to upgrade or stay with what's there? This will be a street car once I finish.
 
Any front bar is a vast improvement over no bar. A rear bar can improve the corner carving too. I wouldn't add a rear bar without subframe connectors though. To much stress will be applied and the bars effect is lost at the unibody structure.
 
Tadams- When you push the car hard does the front end push or does the rear end want to come around? Or does it depend on what the throttle is doing?
edit: If the speed is too high to tell then you are OK with what you have.
 
Front sway bar is almost mandatory for an older car. My 57 Fordor had a slight rake to it and it would almost scrape that huge front bumper on a hard turn. Sway bar completely fixed that. Rears are somewhat design dependent. Sometimes they hurt handlng.
 
Ams364 Does real well in the garage where it's been for the last 2 years. Hopefully soon I will find out how it handles on the road. I have rebuilt the front end, added new brakes, leaf springs and shocks, rebuilt the transmission and have the motor running well. Also updated to electronic ignition. Currently have issues getting fuel from the tank to the carb and finish replacing brake lines. Maybe then I can back her out and give her a good bath. I am looking forward to getting the car on the road.
 
I put the front on my 67 cuda with 340 torsion bars and loved it, than I added the rear and it made a good diffrence on the country roads. Im glad I did it. I had to make my sway bar tabs for my control arms, it wasnt that hard.
 
My plan (TBD) is to attach a front sway bar to the strut rod, near the LCA, since simpler than welding on brackets or changing the LCA's. I got a sway bar from a Volare that is the correct width. For those who think, "crazy, will bend the sway bar", that is the factory design in my 65 C-body. Need I mention I am cheap?
 
The Formula S has a factory sway bar. Would it benefit me to upgrade or stay with what's there? This will be a street car once I finish.
If you're happy with what you have, stay with it. IIRC, the bar is 1" in diameter. There is a 1.125" bar out there if you have more body roll than you prefer. If roll is more than you'd like and you are routinely experiencing understeer (too tight, in NASCAR parlance), then it might be appropriate to consider adding a rear bar.
 
I've been doing a ton of research and reading about brake/suspension mods for my '66 'Cuda; and while these early A-bodies handle better than most of their contemporaries (but with more body roll than I'd like), the brakes scare the hell out of me. So, here goes:

(1) Sway bars: The preferred combo for street use seems to be 1 1/8-inch front and 7/8-inch rear.

For the rear unit, I bought the ADDCO K1-675-0U kit off of fleaBay; it's around $120, and comes with all the needed hardware (polyurethane bushings, too). Instructions look very easy to follow, and I've read that some early A-body cars already have the two holes per side needed to attach the bar to the rear frame rails--after all, sway bars were dealer-install options back in the day. I'll put mine on soon, and report on the installation process and the results!

The front bar situation is a bit more complex: Again, I bought the affordable ADDCO unit (item 751), but the instructions are in Chinglish and don't even apply to our cars! This is not a bolt-on installation; you'd need to figure out and weld up your own mounts from the pieces supplied, then weld these to your K-frame. Here's a link to show you what's involved: http://earlycuda.org/tech/Ft-SwayBar.htm If you're brave and have the welding equipment, have at it! But I believe I've found an easier way: Go to firmfeel.com and look at their item SBFA81. Yes, it's $325, but it's a bolt-on fit that looks very much like the factory-original setup; I spoke with one of their techs, and was told that all that's needed is to drill one hole per side in the K-frame. Their bushings also come with grease fittings, which ADDCO's do not. As for the bars made by Hellwig, these seem to be meant for high-performance use so I haven't investigated them.

(2) Brake upgrades: Definitely read this: www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

From what this article (and others) say, it seems we have several options for reducing or eliminating pucker-marks in our seat upholstery (and stains in our underwear) when controlled deceleration is required:

(a) Keep the drum setup, but go to 10-inch drums (if you have the 9's) and at least 14-inch wheels--and replace the master cylinder with a twin-reservoir one so you can configure the brakes into a dual-circuit system. (Of course, no sway-bar fouling issues here.)

(b) Add a vacuum booster to the above--as you probably know, this was an option on several early A-bodies.

(c) Go to disc brakes up front. (In my experience with other cars, leaving the rears as drums is just fine; after all, new cars are still being built with this setup today!) But there are several possibilities here, too:

(i) Single-piston systems, salvaged from junked later-model Mopars or bought new as aftermarket kits: These require replacement of control arms and spindles, too, and will probably foul the sway bar unless the caliper is mounted at the rear of the brake rotor. These setups also require 15-inch (or larger) wheels, to clear the bulky calipers. A vacuum booster is optional but, as per info in the link given above, would probably be overkill.

(ii) A new aftermarket kit from Stainless Steel Brakes. This includes low-profile, 4-piston calipers--so you can keep you 14-inch wheels. (Works for me!) I was told that there should be no fouling issues with this setup when used with the FirmFeel sway-bar (see above), and this is probably true for bars from other makers. The kit you want is SSBA153-1; google this, and you'll find a bunch of vendors. It's not cheap (about $950, without power booster), but it seems the best choice for hassle-free installation--and requires no messing with the suspension.

Hope some of this helps, and I'll keep you all posted on my progress!
 
I got the firm feel front bar ,nice bit of kit,and addco rear ,not too bad ,but I found the drop links supplied were to short,so I put longer ones on ,they look a lot better ,still got to run the car yet
 
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