Go to street cam from the 70s-80s.

-
Was there a 480 lift purple shaft in 1980 maybe a hemi grind ? Or was it always 474
 
we're liking the solid mopar cam p4120659 @ .05 .288in .244ex 115 deg lube slit install'd at 112 degs a 800 cfm carb , made great power to 6800 rpm (535hp) with a station wagon idle at 800 . street engine .03 over 9 to 1's kb hyp'rs stock 440 with stealth stage 2 heads .
 
Moparhead said:
Do you know the lobe separation on it. ? And specs off the box. That’s really you still have and run the cam.
Click to expand...
A Eng. P3690213 Street Hemi GT-112 284 .471/.474" 109 Zero
Thank you
I've been fortunate enough to have kept that truck all these years
I bought it in 1981
Little Red Express with that cam runs
High 14's
Bone stock except for headers, a/c and all
 
I'm no mechanic but I do read / gather tons of info before I choose what's going on my build... Still, no matter how much I read about camshafts, I understand what the stats mean (duration, lobe separation, etc.) but how that translates into "real life" application, I'm lost. (that's the lack of experience talkin')

Here's the final build I'm aiming for...

My original 318 (numbers matching block) with:
- KB Pistons (KB167) Standard bore (I want to keep displacement as close to 318 as possible)
- original rods & crankshaft
- Indy/RHS LA-X Heads (milled by local Performance Machine shop)
- Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake
- original manifolds + 2.5 inch dual exhaust (h-pipe) from TTI
- Either Street Demon carb OR Sniper EFI system (not decided yet but I'd guess EFI is a must for a daily driver)
- original A904 (will be rebuilt by local transmission shop)
- Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive
- original 8.25 Diff... (thinking of installing Sure-Grip and 3.55 ratio)

As far as camshaft goes I was thinking of getting the P4452782AE kit (.429/.444 lift and 268/276 duration).

(what are you gonna use the car for ?)
- Daily Driver
- Occasionnal Weekend fun (Drag Strip, Lapping, Auto X)

Am I too conservative, too aggressive ? What camshaft would you use for that ?
 
S.Rodney said:
I'm no mechanic but I do read / gather tons of info before I choose what's going on my build... Still, no matter how much I read about camshafts, I understand what the stats mean (duration, lobe separation, etc.) but how that translates into "real life" application, I'm lost. (that's the lack of experience talkin')

Here's the final build I'm aiming for...

My original 318 (numbers matching block) with:
- KB Pistons (KB167) Standard bore (I want to keep displacement as close to 318 as possible)
- original rods & crankshaft
- Indy/RHS LA-X Heads (milled by local Performance Machine shop)
- Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake
- original manifolds + 2.5 inch dual exhaust (h-pipe) from TTI
- Either Street Demon carb OR Sniper EFI system (not decided yet but I'd guess EFI is a must for a daily driver)
- original A904 (will be rebuilt by local transmission shop)
- Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive
- original 8.25 Diff... (thinking of installing Sure-Grip and 3.55 ratio)

As far as camshaft goes I was thinking of getting the P4452782AE kit (.429/.444 lift and 268/276 duration).

(what are you gonna use the car for ?)
- Daily Driver
- Occasionnal Weekend fun (Drag Strip, Lapping, Auto X)

Am I too conservative, too aggressive ? What camshaft would you use for that ?
Click to expand...


Two questions.

1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.

B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.

Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.

Here are some cam companies I use or have used.

Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.

Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.

Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.

Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.

Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.

There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.
 
yellow rose said:
Two questions.

1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.

B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.

Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.

Here are some cam companies I use or have used.

Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.

Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.

Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.

Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.

Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.

There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info. I'm going to bookmark that one.
 
S.Rodney said:
I'm no mechanic but I do read / gather tons of info before I choose what's going on my build... Still, no matter how much I read about camshafts, I understand what the stats mean (duration, lobe separation, etc.) but how that translates into "real life" application, I'm lost. (that's the lack of experience talkin')

Here's the final build I'm aiming for...

My original 318 (numbers matching block) with:
- KB Pistons (KB167) Standard bore (I want to keep displacement as close to 318 as possible)
- original rods & crankshaft
- Indy/RHS LA-X Heads (milled by local Performance Machine shop)
- Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake
- original manifolds + 2.5 inch dual exhaust (h-pipe) from TTI
- Either Street Demon carb OR Sniper EFI system (not decided yet but I'd guess EFI is a must for a daily driver)
- original A904 (will be rebuilt by local transmission shop)
- Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive
- original 8.25 Diff... (thinking of installing Sure-Grip and 3.55 ratio)

As far as camshaft goes I was thinking of getting the P4452782AE kit (.429/.444 lift and 268/276 duration).

(what are you gonna use the car for ?)
- Daily Driver
- Occasionnal Weekend fun (Drag Strip, Lapping, Auto X)

Am I too conservative, too aggressive ? What camshaft would you use for that ?
Click to expand...
yellow rose said:
Two questions.

1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.

B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.

Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.

Here are some cam companies I use or have used.

Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.

Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.

Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.

Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.

Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.

There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.
Click to expand...
@yellow rose , doesn't Mike Jones have a great cam for a mild 318? @S.Rodney you might want to put his name in the search box and see what comes up here. I am sure there's info about that cam on a 318 cam thread.
 
yellow rose said:
Two questions.

1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.

B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.

Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.

Here are some cam companies I use or have used.

Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.

Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.

Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.

Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.

Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.

There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.
Click to expand...
All that typing you're going to hurt your fingers again LOL..
I still have my purple performance 464 hydraulic cam.. it got reground into a 603 solidcam and then got ground into a 526 solidcam.. I think if I have it ground again to a bigger cam it's going to have a base Circle the size of a toothpick LOL..
 
This should be marked “Great Post” under a good number of reasons. Starting with opinions and reasons, reasoning and science behind the grind.

@S.Rodney , I don’t see EFI as a must but it does add certain positives to an actual daily driver starting with a serious cut down in time from starting the engine to putting it drive at all times with winter being the biggest suck on fuel during a carbs warm up time.

Also the same with the gear vendors OD. IMO, for most applications it is, again, a waste of money IMO. But if it suites you, do it. Your car your way your money.

The cam you listed has been the go to for 318 guys for decades. It isn’t a bad cam but there can be something much more suitable for what your doing and for starters, I would run with more lift to take advantage of your heads flow abilities.

On your gear ratio choice, the final drive ratio is 3.55 X’s the OD gear to equal the new final drive ratio. I don’t remember the GV’s OD ratio, but it also must be combined with the tire size. From here I would tag AJ and ask him to run some numbers on the gear ratio/tire size/traveling rpm and such.

After that, call the cam grinders and then a converter shop to get a spot on converter with what your doing. In the end, you’ll have a great package.

Enjoy!!!



yellow rose said:
Two questions.

1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.

B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.

Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.

Here are some cam companies I use or have used.

Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.

Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.

Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.

Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.

Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.

There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
toolmanmike said:
@yellow rose , doesn't Mike Jones have a great cam for a mild 318? @S.Rodney you might want to put his name in the search box and see what comes up here. I am sure there's info about that cam on a 318 cam thread.
Click to expand...


Mike has some really cool lobes, especially in his inverted flank series.

I shouldn't say this because it's hard without name dropping and we all know what a SIN that is so I will do my best to keep names out of it.

MFI 377 CID SBC around 1984ish and some inverted flank lobes were on the market. It was all the rage. I did probably 4-5 hours of phone calls to make sure I wasn't stepping on my weenie with these IF lobes.

Everyone and their mother said go for it. Those lobes will pile on the power in the mid range and still pull to 7800 where it needed to be.

They were wrong. I now know why. Didn't then, but I know now. On the dyno the intial numbers were looking spanky. Except about ~ 6800 or so. Then the engine would change tone, and was getting pissed off.

A quick check of the valve springs and they were toast. Get new springs and they don't do much better.

So we crap canned the IF lobe and went with a Crower lobe IIRC and the engine came to life.

The issue with the IF lobes back then was there was essentially one originator of that kind of lobe, and that was Jones. IIRC it was his father that developed it, but I could be wrong on that. It may have been Mike himself who came up with the idea, but I think it was his dad.

At any rate, the lobes we were using were a copy of what the Jones lobes were. It's very difficult to copy a lobe, and the IF lobe is near impossible to copy.

When Jones developed the lobe (there goes that name dropping) they had a completely different way to grind those lobes. It was expensive and time consuming.

The other cam grinders just tried to copy those lobes with what they had. And it sucked and gave the IF lobes a bad name.

I have no doubt that a Mike Jones Inverted Flank roller lobe would be a damn good lobe. Maybe some day I'll try one.
 
I wonder if a custom cam was the OP's question. lol I wish I could remember all the aftermarket grinds we used in the 70's and 80's.
not one was a Direct Connection piece, all were split pattern.
 
fishmens67 said:
I wonder if a custom cam was the OP's question. lol I wish I could remember all the aftermarket grinds we used in the 70's and 80's.
not one was a Direct Connection piece, all were split pattern.
Click to expand...


It wasn't in the OP's question but I wasn't sure you could still even get any of those grinds so I threw that option out there.
 
yellow rose said:
It wasn't in the OP's question but I wasn't sure you could still even get any of those grinds so I threw that option out there.
Click to expand...
Could you make a cam recommendation for me please..
Screenshot_20191127-092350.png
 
S.Rodney said:
I'm no mechanic but I do read / gather tons of info before I choose what's going on my build... Still, no matter how much I read about camshafts, I understand what the stats mean (duration, lobe separation, etc.) but how that translates into "real life" application, I'm lost. (that's the lack of experience talkin')

Here's the final build I'm aiming for...

My original 318 (numbers matching block) with:
- KB Pistons (KB167) Standard bore (I want to keep displacement as close to 318 as possible)
- original rods & crankshaft
- Indy/RHS LA-X Heads (milled by local Performance Machine shop)
- Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake
- original manifolds + 2.5 inch dual exhaust (h-pipe) from TTI
- Either Street Demon carb OR Sniper EFI system (not decided yet but I'd guess EFI is a must for a daily driver)
- original A904 (will be rebuilt by local transmission shop)
- Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive
- original 8.25 Diff... (thinking of installing Sure-Grip and 3.55 ratio)

As far as camshaft goes I was thinking of getting the P4452782AE kit (.429/.444 lift and 268/276 duration).

(what are you gonna use the car for ?)
- Daily Driver
- Occasionnal Weekend fun (Drag Strip, Lapping, Auto X)

Am I too conservative, too aggressive ? What camshaft would you use for that ?
Click to expand...
I always wanted to run thoes heads I would love to run with my set up 400 hp 340 30 over 10.5 to one compression 474 hemi grind x heads little work down rpm intake 1 inch carb space and 750 on top. But thoes heads are great I recommend the mp 474 -84 or comp 525.
fishmens67 said:
I wonder if a custom cam was the OP's question. lol I wish I could remember all the aftermarket grinds we used in the 70's and 80's.
not one was a Direct Connection piece, all were split pattern.
Click to expand...
My question was very broad. I was Courios how many mp grind there were you could get that used the mopar Red single springs with damper. And what were the best grinds for a street motor. Hydraulic
 
fishmens67 said:
I wonder if a custom cam was the OP's question. lol I wish I could remember all the aftermarket grinds we used in the 70's and 80's.
not one was a Direct Connection piece, all were split pattern.
Click to expand...
I mean it could be a customs grind in my motor with thoes sprigs.
 
292/508 mopar purple grind here! Just stabbed one in my 360 dart sport. Just a few little things left to get motor back together. Actually it's done but need external stuff still to fire up. Excited when I get get her going. However, a little nervous to break in. Did use Lucas break in oil.
 
QuickDart360 said:
292/508 mopar purple grind here! Just stabbed one in my 360 dart sport. Just a few little things left to get motor back together. Actually it's done but need external stuff still to fire up. Excited when I get get her going. However, a little nervous to break in. Did use Lucas break in oil.
Click to expand...
Break it in soon. You don't want the cam lube to end up dripping into the pan over time.
 
toolmanmike said:
Break it in soon. You don't want the cam lube to end up dripping into the pan over time.
Click to expand...
Yeah your right. I want to do this soon because of that I did use a moly base cam lube I think it was a black tube sta-lube brand? What I want is to fire it almost immediately. Easier said than done.
 
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