Mr. Sinister
Devastation Manager
340- Crane HMV 278 fun streeter
A Eng. P3690213 Street Hemi GT-112 284 .471/.474" 109 ZeroDo you know the lobe separation on it. ? And specs off the box. That’s really you still have and run the cam.
I'm no mechanic but I do read / gather tons of info before I choose what's going on my build... Still, no matter how much I read about camshafts, I understand what the stats mean (duration, lobe separation, etc.) but how that translates into "real life" application, I'm lost. (that's the lack of experience talkin')
Here's the final build I'm aiming for...
My original 318 (numbers matching block) with:
- KB Pistons (KB167) Standard bore (I want to keep displacement as close to 318 as possible)
- original rods & crankshaft
- Indy/RHS LA-X Heads (milled by local Performance Machine shop)
- Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake
- original manifolds + 2.5 inch dual exhaust (h-pipe) from TTI
- Either Street Demon carb OR Sniper EFI system (not decided yet but I'd guess EFI is a must for a daily driver)
- original A904 (will be rebuilt by local transmission shop)
- Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive
- original 8.25 Diff... (thinking of installing Sure-Grip and 3.55 ratio)
As far as camshaft goes I was thinking of getting the P4452782AE kit (.429/.444 lift and 268/276 duration).
(what are you gonna use the car for ?)
- Daily Driver
- Occasionnal Weekend fun (Drag Strip, Lapping, Auto X)
Am I too conservative, too aggressive ? What camshaft would you use for that ?
Two questions.
1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.
B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.
Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.
Here are some cam companies I use or have used.
Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.
Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.
Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.
Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.
Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.
There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.
1. Can you even buy that cam any more??
I haven't thought about custom grinds, that's something I'll have to explore for sure. Thanks for the tip.B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone (...)
I'm no mechanic but I do read / gather tons of info before I choose what's going on my build... Still, no matter how much I read about camshafts, I understand what the stats mean (duration, lobe separation, etc.) but how that translates into "real life" application, I'm lost. (that's the lack of experience talkin')
Here's the final build I'm aiming for...
My original 318 (numbers matching block) with:
- KB Pistons (KB167) Standard bore (I want to keep displacement as close to 318 as possible)
- original rods & crankshaft
- Indy/RHS LA-X Heads (milled by local Performance Machine shop)
- Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake
- original manifolds + 2.5 inch dual exhaust (h-pipe) from TTI
- Either Street Demon carb OR Sniper EFI system (not decided yet but I'd guess EFI is a must for a daily driver)
- original A904 (will be rebuilt by local transmission shop)
- Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive
- original 8.25 Diff... (thinking of installing Sure-Grip and 3.55 ratio)
As far as camshaft goes I was thinking of getting the P4452782AE kit (.429/.444 lift and 268/276 duration).
(what are you gonna use the car for ?)
- Daily Driver
- Occasionnal Weekend fun (Drag Strip, Lapping, Auto X)
Am I too conservative, too aggressive ? What camshaft would you use for that ?
@yellow rose , doesn't Mike Jones have a great cam for a mild 318? @S.Rodney you might want to put his name in the search box and see what comes up here. I am sure there's info about that cam on a 318 cam thread.Two questions.
1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.
B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.
Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.
Here are some cam companies I use or have used.
Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.
Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.
Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.
Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.
Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.
There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.
All that typing you're going to hurt your fingers again LOL..Two questions.
1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.
B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.
Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.
Here are some cam companies I use or have used.
Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.
Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.
Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.
Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.
Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.
There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.
Two questions.
1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.
B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.
Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.
Here are some cam companies I use or have used.
Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.
Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.
Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.
Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.
Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.
There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.
@yellow rose , doesn't Mike Jones have a great cam for a mild 318? @S.Rodney you might want to put his name in the search box and see what comes up here. I am sure there's info about that cam on a 318 cam thread.
I wonder if a custom cam was the OP's question. lol I wish I could remember all the aftermarket grinds we used in the 70's and 80's.
not one was a Direct Connection piece, all were split pattern.
Could you make a cam recommendation for me please..It wasn't in the OP's question but I wasn't sure you could still even get any of those grinds so I threw that option out there.
I always wanted to run thoes heads I would love to run with my set up 400 hp 340 30 over 10.5 to one compression 474 hemi grind x heads little work down rpm intake 1 inch carb space and 750 on top. But thoes heads are great I recommend the mp 474 -84 or comp 525.I'm no mechanic but I do read / gather tons of info before I choose what's going on my build... Still, no matter how much I read about camshafts, I understand what the stats mean (duration, lobe separation, etc.) but how that translates into "real life" application, I'm lost. (that's the lack of experience talkin')
Here's the final build I'm aiming for...
My original 318 (numbers matching block) with:
- KB Pistons (KB167) Standard bore (I want to keep displacement as close to 318 as possible)
- original rods & crankshaft
- Indy/RHS LA-X Heads (milled by local Performance Machine shop)
- Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake
- original manifolds + 2.5 inch dual exhaust (h-pipe) from TTI
- Either Street Demon carb OR Sniper EFI system (not decided yet but I'd guess EFI is a must for a daily driver)
- original A904 (will be rebuilt by local transmission shop)
- Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive
- original 8.25 Diff... (thinking of installing Sure-Grip and 3.55 ratio)
As far as camshaft goes I was thinking of getting the P4452782AE kit (.429/.444 lift and 268/276 duration).
(what are you gonna use the car for ?)
- Daily Driver
- Occasionnal Weekend fun (Drag Strip, Lapping, Auto X)
Am I too conservative, too aggressive ? What camshaft would you use for that ?
My question was very broad. I was Courios how many mp grind there were you could get that used the mopar Red single springs with damper. And what were the best grinds for a street motor. HydraulicI wonder if a custom cam was the OP's question. lol I wish I could remember all the aftermarket grinds we used in the 70's and 80's.
not one was a Direct Connection piece, all were split pattern.
I mean it could be a customs grind in my motor with thoes sprigs.I wonder if a custom cam was the OP's question. lol I wish I could remember all the aftermarket grinds we used in the 70's and 80's.
not one was a Direct Connection piece, all were split pattern.
Break it in soon. You don't want the cam lube to end up dripping into the pan over time.292/508 mopar purple grind here! Just stabbed one in my 360 dart sport. Just a few little things left to get motor back together. Actually it's done but need external stuff still to fire up. Excited when I get get her going. However, a little nervous to break in. Did use Lucas break in oil.
Yeah your right. I want to do this soon because of that I did use a moly base cam lube I think it was a black tube sta-lube brand? What I want is to fire it almost immediately. Easier said than done.Break it in soon. You don't want the cam lube to end up dripping into the pan over time.