Guess my Hp and Tq

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I can tell ya right now, that's too much timing. Like you heard in an earlier post...33 34 degrees it where they all seem to run. Something in the tune is waaay off.

Keep at it. That thing shoulda made 575/590 around 7000. Easy.
 
My two cents for your final engine numbers. Total timing should be around 34-36 for that stroke. Is the distributor locked out or is there mechanical advance still in it? If this is going to be a race race lock that thing out. Also what oil were you running weight wise, and was it up to temp? I have seen on my old "Mustang 250 chassis dyno as much as 30hp by just changing oil and up to temp.

Engine dyno's are really just a stupid fucken number that is only for ***** enlargement, so don't get all bent out of shape. I understand that you spend alot of money and only got what you think is a 500hp engine. But remember this, the rings still have to seat in better, and the engine still has to wear in. Put it in your car and flog it at the track, you will be happy when they kick you off the track for going to fast. My extra 2 cents.
 
Engine builder locked my distributor out. He said it wouldn't idle with the springs in it. It will be a track/street car. Oil is Joe Gibbs break in oil, not sure on weight. I'm going to take it to Mike @ MRL something just don't feel right. Should have just done that to begin with.
 
kingvern said:
70aarcuda, I'm not sure what you mean by corrected or actual hp
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Corrected is for the altitude, barometric pressure, air temp, and it will correct the HP level according. Say the corrected altitude is 3,600' out side it will adjust the power level to sea level or so.

I looked up Joe Gibbs oil and it is 30w or better/thicker. Ask your engine builder what the main and rod tolerance is, and if you can run 10w30 racing oil of some sort. I run 10w30 Valvoline racing conventional oil in my small block. Everyone has their own idea of whats best, but synthetic is really not necessary in a track engine. Run a Wix filter #1068. just my 2 cents.
 
I had estimated the output with a simple math equation, based on what is reasonably possible with a radical build: 408 (cubic inches) X 1.25 (efficiency) = 510 HP which is just about what the dyno read. It would be unrealistic to expect much more than that for any such build. I had a very radical 273 and based on ET and mph it only managed about 1.12 HP per cubic inch, so I believe you are way ahead of the game, especially considering it was a first run without any fine tuning. Anything over 500 horsepower in a 3200 lb vehicle will dip you into the 10 second bracket, so try not to be too down in the mouth, now that you discover you WILL need a roll cage!
 
what rpm was the peak TQ? small things can make big differences, so it needs some dyno tuning.
 
Thank you guy's, As soon as the weather straitens out I'm going to pick it up. I will just see what it runs in the spring when the tracks open up so I can do some fine tuning on it. First thing will be to put the mechanical advance back in it.
 
kingvern said:
Engine builder locked my distributor out. He said it wouldn't idle with the springs in it. It will be a track/street car. Oil is Joe Gibbs break in oil, not sure on weight. I'm going to take it to Mike @ MRL something just don't feel right. Should have just done that to begin with.
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The old Direct Connection manual had a word for this...called racing dynos...one dyno give you 500 hp the next dyno gives you 550....Is the engine any faster....no...but you are a few hundred buck poorer...
 
replicaracer43 said:
Don't sweat it, dyno numbers are practically useless unless you are compairing engines on the same dyno at the same time. Don't fall for the hype, there are builders on this very site even with VERY optimistic dyno figures, but they sell engine builds......Know what im sayin? just put it in the car and run it, you wont be pissed anymore!
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DUDE! re-read this............
 
replicaracer43 said:
Don't sweat it, dyno numbers are practically useless unless you are compairing engines on the same dyno at the same time. Don't fall for the hype, there are builders on this very site even with VERY optimistic dyno figures, but they sell engine builds......Know what im sayin? just put it in the car and run it, you wont be pissed anymore!
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x2.
First off, I'd say yes, it will disappoint you. Something is wrong to me as it's down about 6% from where I'd expect to have seen it (around the 530hp mark). There may be choices made just in the testing that led to that reduction tho. You really should get the complete dyno sheet. You're looking for volumetric efficiency numbers in particular, and the power peaks.
 
I think part of the area you lost power was in your fuel selection. You're only at 11.3:1 (IIRC) so fuel with that high of an octane rating is not necessary. If you were still on cast iron heads, maybe, but not so much with aluminum since they dissipate heat better. I think that's the reason your timing wound up so high, to try and force the fuel to burn. Since you have a Pro Systems carb, call Patrick and ask him about it. I'd be interested in what he'd have to say.
 
That's a LOT of timing for what looks like a quench set up. Usually in the 30-33 range depending on efficiency. Pull a plug and look for speckling on porcelain.

Cranking pressures would give a good indication of potential fuel requirements. The turncoat is right.. :) LOL

replicaracer43 said:
Don't sweat it, dyno numbers are practically useless unless you are compairing engines on the same dyno at the same time. Don't fall for the hype, there are builders on this very site even with VERY optimistic dyno figures, but they sell engine builds......Know what im sayin? just put it in the car and run it, you wont be pissed anymore!
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Ain't that the truth. Go watch episodes of Pass Time for the fantasy land numbers some of the drivers spit out that likely came from an engine builder. It doesn't take 600hp to run 10.60 in a 3300 pound car! It does if the driveline and chassis are complete crap! MPH doesn't generally lie.... :)
 
I agree with others, I would bet that 34° timing would make your stroker "happier".

Sorry, totally off topic....Hey UOP, when did you switch to the LS motor? Looks like you picked up a NICE chunk of ET.
 
It's been running with the LS since late August. I did it to try to be more competitive in my class (Daily Driver) at Drag Week. Turns out I would have been ok with the 360, but I would have had to spray every pass to try and make the field so after registering (in May) I decided to change up my whole combo (to be ready in September, what was I thinking?!?!). At first I was going to do a nice 408 stroker but when I finally sat down and hard defined my current and future goals it made more sense, financially, to go LS. Losing 115 lbs (weighed both engines) off the front of my car didn't hurt either.

I think the first person to realize I made the switch was Rob, as he was PMing me during the event. Until recently I was kind of keeping it secret because when I first joined the site in 2009 (wow, it's been that long) I got a few nasty PMs about my car. Didn't really want to deal with the drama. Now that the whole world knows (This month's issue of Hotrod, pg 76. Yup, shameless self promotion :) ) I felt it was time to go ahead and update my sig.

Ok, hijack over. Carry on........
 
UOP said:
I think the first person to realize I made the switch was Rob, as he was PMing me during the event. Until recently I was kind of keeping it secret because when I first joined the site in 2009 (wow, it's been that long) I got a few nasty PMs about my car.
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That was funny on the drag week blog... Yeah, sure you helped him. LOL I was saddened to see you made the switch, however, I fully understand. I was thinking about building a turbo LS for something.

All good with me and your input. You make it run, know what works and putting it to use. If others here have issue with your choices, so be it. Stick around and chime in. :D
 
I'm not going anywhere. Of my group of racing friends I'm the only one who doesn't own a Mopar at the moment. I am keeping my eye out for a valiant wagon though, to build a daily driver.

One of my buddies gave all kinds of crap for making the swap. I told him that if he keeps it up I'm gonna build a Challenger Drag Pak clone with a turbo 4.8 LS. He didn't think it was quite as funny as I did, lol.
 
UOP said:
It's been running with the LS since late August. I did it to try to be more competitive in my class (Daily Driver) at Drag Week. Turns out I would have been ok with the 360, but I would have had to spray every pass to try and make the field so after registering (in May) I decided to change up my whole combo (to be ready in September, what was I thinking?!?!). At first I was going to do a nice 408 stroker but when I finally sat down and hard defined my current and future goals it made more sense, financially, to go LS. Losing 115 lbs (weighed both engines) off the front of my car didn't hurt either.

I think the first person to realize I made the switch was Rob, as he was PMing me during the event. Until recently I was kind of keeping it secret because when I first joined the site in 2009 (wow, it's been that long) I got a few nasty PMs about my car. Didn't really want to deal with the drama. Now that the whole world knows (This month's issue of Hotrod, pg 76. Yup, shameless self promotion :) ) I felt it was time to go ahead and update my sig.

Ok, hijack over. Carry on........
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Sweet! Just ignore the haters, there will always be at least 1. I was thinking about trying either the daily driver class or the small block NA in Drag Week (some day soon I hope). I think I would have been around 2nd or 3rd place if I went (and survived) the small block NA class.
 
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