Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
No, I really can't. I have neither the tools, nor the ability.
Head availability
- Thread starter Jarlaxle
- Start date
-
FWIW, Jegs shows a theoretical ship date for Promaxx heads (93625) as the end of May.Of course, the Speedmasters don't ship until mid-April. FWIW, the CNC-ported Speedmasters and the as-cast Promaxx are about the same price.
I had similar reservations before I ordered my SBM 171's directly from their website. Email Promaxx directly, the ship dates on Jegs and Summit are not accurate. If they have castings on hand they will let you know the accurate lead time. They have great customer service & are responsive to email. Ordered mine 04/2021. Emailed support a few days later and requested they change my order to 63cc heads. Received a reply and updated invoice the next day. My heads are still in the box as I had to manage a household move to another state. Mine arrived in 3 weeks. They look great.
GL!
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with assembled heads, usually more cost effective. But, my main concern, considering nothing is visually wrong, would be guide clearance. Springs not exact, ports not exact, throat/short turn not exact, you can live with...The last thing you want is a valve hanging up when a tight guide gets hot.
I just got a set of Edelbrock heads (LA) from Summit Racing delivered. I took them apart and found nothing bad. Valves moved in and out easy., they sat proud without any raised lip area around the valve in the chamber. No debris in the head anywhere. Springs in cups. The exhaust, all took a .015 shim to be dead on the 1.800 installed height. A few intake valves took .015 shims. But that’s it. The variance was all .007 to exactly 1.800 installed height.
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
I talked to the local machine shop owner this evening…they have sold 100’s of Promaxx heads…they check them all and there are very few problems…once he said they received one set that the valve seats were cut at a different angle from the valves…They blamed the new guy
^^ this. Valve hangs open, collides with the piston and turns into an expensive mess. Also the guy doing the valve job has to knock out X amount of heads in a shift - you could end up with badly chattered seats with a ton of run out that don't seal. Assembled heads usually work out cheaper as the manufacturer buys their hardware in bulk at a heavily discounted rate.
I work in manufacturing and 98% of the time you will be fine, but stuff does get past quality control from time to time. Cheap insurance to have them looked over.
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
After trying to figure out heads, I've figured something out. My head hurts.
I called them up as well, a few minutes before ordering the Edelbrock heads from Summit. They were out of heads for us.
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
Given the choice would you buy the Promaxx over the Eddies?I called them up as well, a few minutes before ordering the Edelbrock heads from Summit. They were out of heads for us.
Yes
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
That was kinda my point. All that's needed is a valve spring compressor. Disassemble, play with new shiny pieces, take to machine shop, get the 
, go pick up, play with new shiny pieces with a bigger smile knowing all is good and reassemble. I bet machine costs would be "minor"
, go pick up, play with new shiny pieces with a bigger smile knowing all is good and reassemble. I bet machine costs would be "minor"Learn how to do it yourself.
No, wrong way. I built out of two small plywood squares a mounting plate for the head, I use 3 head bolts to hold down the head to the wood board. I C-clamp it to any table that I can run a C-clamp under. I purchased the valve spring removal tool from Mancini Racing & a micrometer to check the height. Purchased a variety of shims to adjust the height of there low. Purchased a tool to cut the seats if need be.That was kinda my point. All that's needed is a valve spring compressor. Disassemble, play with new shiny pieces, take to machine shop, get the
This is easy work to do. Went to my machinist and asked what I should be looking for and what is good. How the valve should slide in and out. 15 minutes later, I’m schooled and haven’t had an issue since.
For the price of tools and making my own mounting board and 15 minutes with my machinist….. I have never paid for this process.
Throw your money away if you want and make up any excuse you want to. But that crap is on you!
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
I have no tools,no space, and zero ability.
If you have none of those things, then why are you wanting to buy cylinder heads?
Stop short changing yourself, get your butt in gear.
No excuses.
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
Ok. I guess I need to move, then.
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
Because I've wanted an A body hot rod for 25 years and for once in my miserable life, I'm actually going to do something just because I want to.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Some of you guys need to change your terminology around. All the valves will slide-out initially, even if they seize in the guides 10 min after fire up.
Some people will put their finger over the guide and with the valve in the guide.. pull the valve out to see how much vacuum pulls on their fingertip .. or better yet pull it out .500 and wiggle it.
If you can see it move... '.0015-.002' intake it's good. Regardless you want the exhaust to wiggle a little bit more than the intake/aka have more clearance.
Also.. check for the guide being reamed.
Many times the lack of reaming the top after the guide is installed is what's tight.
Google this stuff, it's not hard .
If it hurts your head that much... pay someone else to handle it ..or find another hobby
Some people will put their finger over the guide and with the valve in the guide.. pull the valve out to see how much vacuum pulls on their fingertip .. or better yet pull it out .500 and wiggle it.
If you can see it move... '.0015-.002' intake it's good. Regardless you want the exhaust to wiggle a little bit more than the intake/aka have more clearance.
Also.. check for the guide being reamed.
Many times the lack of reaming the top after the guide is installed is what's tight.
Google this stuff, it's not hard .
If it hurts your head that much... pay someone else to handle it ..or find another hobby
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
I plan to pay someone to handle it.
LOL! I’d invite you over but a day trip I am not!
Perhaps an actual school will be of service to you.
You CAN do this. Go for it!
No tools? Is that a “forever” deal? Problem solved: Mechanic's Tool Set, 225 Pc.
In the early/mid 80’s I pulled and installed engines, gutted front suspensions and rebuilt, pulled transmissions, gutted and replaced an interior, did rear ended swaps AND built a spray booth over an engine bay in order to paint it ......all in various parking lots of apartments I lived at. Used Bathtubs for engine parts cleaning, did head porting in the dining room......don’t know how it would fly these days or if age and wisdom thing play apart now, but if you’re young and aren’t worried about being evicted it can be done
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
No, I would need to move. I can't do any wrenching where I live now.
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
I'm not young and I absolutely am worried about eviction.No tools? Is that a “forever” deal? Problem solved: Mechanic's Tool Set, 225 Pc.
In the early/mid 80’s I pulled and installed engines, gutted front suspensions and rebuilt, pulled transmissions, gutted and replaced an interior, did rear ended swaps AND built a spray booth over an engine bay in order to paint it ......all in various parking lots of apartments I lived at. Used Bathtubs for engine parts cleaning, did head porting in the dining room......don’t know how it would fly these days or if age and wisdom thing play apart now, but if you’re young and aren’t worried about being evicted it can be done
-
Similar threads
