headlight relays

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wjajr said:
The relays are Hella purchased from slantsixdan, he included the sockets. They are interlocking so that they can be ganged making for a nice tight installation.
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The interlocking relay sockets are Hella, yes. The relays themselves? Hell no! I quit selling Hella relays in about 2005 when their quality abruptly skidded and I started getting a ridiculous number of failures. Switched to Bosch/Tyco relays and since that switch I can count the number of comebacks on one hand. Much better. The harness builder I use for custom-built/ready-to-install headlamp harnesses is associated with a Hella shop, so he was incorporating Hella relays...which are now made in China. Oooh, much better. Not! Fail-fail-fail. I've switched to having him build the harnesses minus relays so I can supply Bosch/Tyco units that actually stay alive.
 
I shaved those interlocks off my relay connectors. No detailed explabation for my actions. Everyone has their own likes and dislikes.
 
Oooops. I just recall a box that the Hella base came in. After closer inspection of tan relay, indeed it is inscribed on top with almost invisible ink; “Tyco”. I had to double up with 2x and 3x Doppler reading glasses, and bright light to see this inscription…

Sorry about the bum info Dan.
 
RedFish said:
I shaved those interlocks off my relay connectors. No detailed explabation for my actions. Everyone has their own likes and dislikes.
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RedFish: international man of mystery!
redbeard.gif
 
All

Can I run the pauly v.100's relay as pictured in the picture. The yellow boxes are the relays.

Bearwolf
 

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Bear your diagram is too small to read, but you don't hook the headlight relays to the light switch, you trigger them from the dimmer switch, what is it that you are doing, there?
 
67Dart273:
Bear your diagram is too small to read, but you don't hook the headlight relays to the light switch, you trigger them from the dimmer switch, what is it that you are doing, there?
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That is how I wired my headlight relay system with dimmer switch acting as trigger switch for headlight relays. The high and low beam power supply to relays from battery/alternator to lamps are fused. I installed an under hood six fused circuit 100 amp power distribution block to supply power to headlight, choke, o2 sensor, remote power sensor for voltage regulator, and future electric radiator cooling fan circuits.

Lights are much brighter, charging voltage is now spot on.
 
67Dartt273

Yes I would like to have one relay run for both the high and low beams, that will be trigger by the dimmer switch. I 'm also trying to use the exsiting wrining that is in the car. My thought is I can power the block of relays from the hot wire that is current running to the ammeter and bypass the ammeter. (see pauly v.100's response) I can send you a larger version of the wiring diagram.

wjajr

I would like to keep everything under the dash.


Bear
 
bearwolf64 said:
I would like to have one relay run for both the high and low beams
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If you use only one relay to control the whole headlamp system, then all it takes is one failure (a faulty connection, a dying relay, etc.) to kill your whole headlamp system, leaving you suddenly 100% dark. Much safer to control the low beams with one relay and the high beams with another relay.

I 'm also trying to use the exsiting wrining that is in the car.
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A proper relay installation does not require you to cut or remove any of the existing wiring; you just use the existing wires to trigger relays and build a new power path for the headlamps from the power pickup point to the relays and from the relays to the lamps.

I can power the block of relays from the hot wire that is current running to the ammeter and bypass the ammeter.
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But this does not address one of the main weak points, which is the connection of this wire where it passes through the bulkhead.

I would like to keep everything under the dash.
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Much better to leave the entire existing headlamp circuit intact and put the new power path and relays up front, as close as possible to the headlamps. This makes for the shortest (lowest loss, most reliable) headlamp circuit. You can easily hide the relays under the battery or in any of several other places at the front of the car.
 
Dan:
You can easily hide the relays under the battery or in any of several other places at the front of the car
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I wear my relays with pride out in plain sight for all to see their beauty. LOL
 
I like the idea of using two relays for the headlights, as noted by Dan. Just like with aircraft, redundancy might someday save your butt.
 
I run 2 relays mounted behind my radiator support. Bought some Bosch H4 eouro motorcycle lamps with Flosser bulbs from the Busdepot. The beam is awesome and lookin at the car coming at you it looks like like regular old yellow Halogens. 150% better than what it had. I know there are better lights but for the price these can't be beat.
 
I'd like to do the upgrade, but first I'll need to re-do the entire wiring harness in my Demon. It's a fire just waiting to happen. Too many po's having their way with the car. I should also have relays for the twin electric fuel pumps and electric (junk) cooling fan. And I'd like to upgrade to a higher amp alternator for all the other stuff I want to add. It never ends. :banghead:



Wylde1.
 
here's how i mounted my relays for the head lights. under the battery tray.

pop riveted to tray:
IMG_3235.jpg


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pay no attention to my extra long screws. those spacers only take up the extra thread. so ill grab a shorter screw next time im at ACE.


should i fuse the power to the relays?
 
Looks pretty good. On my 67, I pirated a relay box out of a mini van and mounted it on the fender apron. Fuses, relays, for ignition, pump, headlights, anti theft all in one box.

'dude, don'cha have a decent set of wire crimp pliers?

You can cut machine screws with 'em!!

(Just a random pic off the net, no particular brand)

WireStrippers-CrimpersPhoto.jpg


My junkyard relay box

image.php
 
kool box too!

i do have a set of wire crimpers...although im not sure if id try to cut a # 10 machine screw with them!!??
 
mopardude318 said:
kool box too!

i do have a set of wire crimpers...although im not sure if id try to cut a # 10 machine screw with them!!??
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I think you missed it. Look at the photo, there are special threaded holes just for that. They'll cut most no10 screws just fine, unless they're high strength er stainless er somthun
 
67Dart273 said:
My junkyard relay box

image.php
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67Dart273,
Do you recall what year? I am looking for a relay box for rewiring my 64 Valiant's engine bay. I used a ~95 Grand Cherokee box in my 65 Dart, but yours looks better, since smaller with 10 relays vs my 7. It looks newer (2001+?) since the box-style fuses.
 
No, it's Chinese garbage with no-name relays you'll have a hard time finding when (not "if") they fail without warning. If it's a choice between this junk and unmodified stock wiring, leave the stock wiring alone and live with its limitations. Fortunately, there are enough good options available that you don't face that choice.
 
BillGrissom said:
67Dart273,
Do you recall what year? I am looking for a relay box for rewiring my 64 Valiant's engine bay. I used a ~95 Grand Cherokee box in my 65 Dart, but yours looks better, since smaller with 10 relays vs my 7. It looks newer (2001+?) since the box-style fuses.
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That little box is PERFECT for a junker. I did some rewiring, just using the wiring right in the box, IE reconfigured the fuses to whatever relay I wanted. It has mounting ears that nestle right up along the sidewall of the "shelf" on the fender apron. I put mine in front of the washer pump location, and it has a nice big stud on the one end for "main power" so you can run a nice big jumper to the start relay

I saved a screenshot!!! of the Craigslist ad!!! 95 Caravan
 

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