Hemi Cuda just for fun

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HemiMark said:
Just an FYI, I used hard lines on the Duster and it worked great... you would be surprised how far out of the way the master cylinder will be....... I think you should try the hard lines (mock up) first just to see if you can remove the valve cover. I think the hard lines will work.
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Thanks Mark I will try it before I buy new lines.
 
Pic of my new headers clearanced, I'm not real happy with what was done to clear the idler arm but its too late now so I will have to live with it till I pull this thing back down for paint and detailing. I will replace them at that point.

Passenger side
 

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Finally on all fours again.
 

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Hmmmmm.

I had nothing hitting or anything like what I see.

how is the fit with the headers around the steering box?....as I remember, there wasn't any room to move the motor right or left...or any further back.

Didn't the pitman arm come installed on the steering box? I wonder if there is a difference in the idler /drag link from what I mocked up with? if the steering linkage cannot go down.....can the motor go up?....I was thinking it was already high in the tunnel.

IMPORTANT....The poly-spool mounts are offset and depending on how installed, can make the motor sit lower.....are the mounts installed to make the motor sit high....or low? if unsure..... send me a picture of the mount?

I would not be happy with the header mod.
 
Motor sits @ 1/2 inch from fire wall so its as far back as it can go, maybe we have the spool mounts set on low but they would have to be there with the Lakewood scatter shield because it had to be clearanced in the tunnel so that may be the issue. I guess when I go back thru this thing I will be buying new headers and a QuickTime shield for more room.

Don't know any way to move the linkage down and the idler and pitman are new and were ordered for a 69 big block Cuda, and they look correct and fit like they should.
 
I had to cut and modify 3 tubes (Hedmans) and shorten a couple of the suspension studs for clearance on my A-body

Look like you may be able to shim the motor up a bit to help your clearance ?

I am using a MP crossram - so I ended up adjusting my motor height - added 1" to a glasstech scoop and made my own motor mounts so I could run air cleaners

Just curious if you have mocked up your clutch linkage yet ?

I had to do alot of bending/fabricating on the linkage brackets and z-bar. I also had to move the mounting tab on the Lakewood shield as it hit the firewall.

All this fiddling REALLY makes you tip your hat to the guys who raced them week after week back then
 
If your mounts are already in the high position....I will dig out the idler and drag link I used and compare it to yours.

Woulda-coulda-shoulda stopped when things started hitting. Each one of those dings in the pipes is like a kick in the nuts....I'm not walking too well.
 
the idler arm mounting holes can be slotted slightly, and the steering box shimmed a bit, OR the idler and pitman can be heated and bent very slightly to gain clearance. that will lower the whole drag link assy somewhat..... cant go very far though, we are talking about "tweaks" not major movement. The bump steer should be checked after doing this also, as you may need to adjust the outer tie rod hight to get acceptable bump steer.....
 
HemiDenny said:
If your mounts are already in the high position....I will dig out the idler and drag link I used and compare it to yours.

Woulda-coulda-shoulda stopped when things started hitting. Each one of those dings in the pipes is like a kick in the nuts....I'm not walking too well.
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Your telling me but I wasn't there at the time and by the time I talked to him, to late. So now this is what I'v got. Defiantly not what I wanted after all this work on your part and mine. I'm not very happy right now.
 
skypower - check your engine location before you modify anything

All these are to the center of the crank - I looked at a bunch of cars over the years - before repro parts were available and all of them are different - you just kinda wiggle everything around until it fits best - as you know a 1/8" is a TON in this situation

All measurements are to the center of the crank and are approximate (ie within 1/8)

Height ~ 6" from top of k
~14" from pass frame rail
~16" from driver side frame rail
~3/8 from the firewall - passenger head
 
I used the TTi specs (14" pass / 16" driver) for the install. For the rear I used (TTis spec) the rear ground strap bolt hole on the drivers side head...1-1/4" from the firewall. With the TTis in a stock K frame, there is very very little wiggle room.

I know I had an idler / drag link on and turned the box lock to lock. I also slid torsion bars in each side. They fit perfect.

I use a 727 for mock up....but other than tunnel clearance for the larger bellhousing, that shouldn't effect the issues you are having with the idler.
 
Bob don't feel to bad, you outta see what I had to do to my 2 1/4" hookers to get them to work. I know my engine is in the right spot, I mounted it right on the wedge mounts the original 383 used.
 
I don't get it. I saw the whole deal assembled in Denny's mock-up
and it was fine. Nothing touching and no dings necessary.

There must be a bunch of manufacturing variance in the tubs.

Either that or they were assembled differently.
 
I am not blaming Denny I saw it in there and looking correct and all the measurements are right based on TTI's specs. I think we have it in wrong, maybe set to low, I am upset that my chassis guy didn't stop. He did call me and tell me about it, that it would need to be clearanced but I never thought it would be like that based on all his other work. It took me a day to get over there and by that time he had already done that, he was in a rush trying to get my car out before a big party he was having at his place which didn't end up happening anyway. When I get the car back I will pull it apart and turn over the spools and try it that way. Just frustrated with the whole situation, I wish he would have said you need to get over here and make a decision.
 
Just another quick update. I finally got my car back from the the chassis shop and had the exhaust installed, 3in back to the axel with an x pipe, we couldn't put tail pipes on it no room to get them thru there. Ordered the fuel line and fittings which should pretty much finish up everything underneath the car so should be ready to fire it up soon, then I will order the final bits to get this thing on the road. Seems like every time I touch this thing it's another 5k. lol You guys watch as soon as I get this thing up and running around, I will get a call from Jamie and boom another 5k, I'm sure he will wait till like a week after I have gotten to drive it so I can tear it all apart again. :burnout: Im starting to get motivated and excited about this project again. Woohoo. :blob:
 
skypower said:
Im starting to get motivated and excited about this project again.
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Please send some motivation and excitement my way, I'm kind of in the I'll get to it, when I get to it stage. I feel your pain regarding the $5k spending spree's, but as you know there's light the end of that tunnel....keep up the good work .
 
Thanks Ross, I made the decision to just get this one up and running so I can at least drive it around and have some fun till I get more time and a place to work on it. I don't have all the detail stuff to do like you as my car is just a bang around ten footer which kinda sucks with as much money as I have in it. lol. All that said the wife and I are starting to look at houses closer to my office and this house will have a garage so I can keep the car there instead of at my office which is an hour away from home so very hard to get anything done.
Some day I hope to build my 68 into something more along the lines of the quality of your car which is just amazing, keep up the great work your car is one the ones here that does motivate me to get mine done. And yes there is light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks again.
 
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