I tried that too and it works, don't need a lot of pressure.
I used their metal/foam plate and clamp chain. the bad thing is the master gets 100% full so plan on spillage with towels everywhere.
High pedal pressure with KH disc brakes
- Thread starter Bob Jasinski
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I used their metal/foam plate and clamp chain. the bad thing is the master gets 100% full so plan on spillage with towels everywhere.
I was giving serious thought to buying a Motive pressure bleeder, and looked at the adapter plate for the dual pot cast iron masters. Its essentially a flat plate with an air hose attached. That gave me the idea to install an air port in my used spare dual pot master cover. Despite trying several gasket arrangements, ie; the original with 3M seam sealer on the vent ports under the cover, and the two different and thicker cut rubber and or foam rubber under the lid, I couldn't put more than about 6 PSI into it before it leaked, and yes I did use a C-clamp on it too. It made a mess and even the slightest about of air leakage caused brake fluid to be released. I'm really glad I'm using DOT 5 otherwise I would have had paint damage. I gave up with it, and continued with traditional bleeding with wifey in the drivers seat pressing up and down as I open and closed the bleeder screws. If anyone has used the Motive power bleeder with their dual pot adapter cover I'd like to hear about how well it worked for you. Motives' online instructions recommend several clamps on the adapter to get it to seal.
I've got a pretty good pedal now, and the adjustable pushrod helped, even with very little increase in length, no more than 1/8". I know there are those that think the adjustable pushrod is a "bandaid" on the real problem, but there is more to consider. For one, I sprayed Lizard Skin sound deadener, two coats on my inside floors including the inside of the firewall when the body was completely apart, and I believe that coating brought my pedal assembly out about 1/16" or maybe a bit more where it mounts to the inside firewall. I believe that explains why my pedal seemed lower than it should have.
Here's the modified cover I tried:
interesting ideas there
the old school pressure bleeders had big clamps
was looking for a pic and saw this
wonder if something like this would work
I'd use stuffer stuff,
like 1/4" aluminum, and some u bolts
need pressure on both ends, so would need 2 pressure lines
what pressure did the old pressure bleeders use?
the old school pressure bleeders had big clamps
was looking for a pic and saw this
wonder if something like this would work
I'd use stuffer stuff,
like 1/4" aluminum, and some u bolts
need pressure on both ends, so would need 2 pressure lines
what pressure did the old pressure bleeders use?
To add to the cover adapter idea
I thought about adding a fluid compatible foam that goes into the reservoir to displace 1/4" of fluid. Shaped to the shape of the resovours.
I thought about adding a fluid compatible foam that goes into the reservoir to displace 1/4" of fluid. Shaped to the shape of the resovours.
I only installed one air port because the cover has an "air bridge" between the two pots. The Motive bleeder cover also has an air bridge as well. Your picture only shows one port as well, but I don't see an air connection between the two ports.
agreed,
it was a pic I found to illustrate my idea of a thick alum or steel plate
(was lazy and didn't draw it)
I'd just drill it for a crossover tube between ends
if it was foam on the bottom, and a perforated plastic top with legs to keep the foam off the holes
I think that would work. it would depressurize better, too
(as you release the pressure, the disolved gas needs to expand, and tries to blow fluid out)
the perforated top would let the air expand and keep the fluid in the bottom
Unfortunately, the downside to either of these approaches is that you have to remove the cover to add fluid or risk running dry.
agreed,
unless you didn't use air, hhmmm...
manual hydraulic pump?
we used pumps like this for gauge calibration.
and I have a greenlee pump for my hole punch
not to build pressure, to move/add fluid to the system
The one I have has a bottle with a reservoir in it. You put new fluid in it then pump up the canister like a insecticide sprayer.
Then attach it to the plate on the master and it forces brake fluid from the bottle reservoir into the master. So you can see the amount of fluid in the bottle reservoir
thats not a bad price, either
especially if ya have more than 1 classic car
especially if ya have more than 1 classic car
Here is my setup. I positioned the copper tubing about a 1/2 inch down in the reservoir so I could suck fluid back out before pulling the cap. I actually thought about it a lot, but didn’t think enough about the failure to hold pressure. Would have been better off just bleeding the brakes manually after all the effort and clean up.
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