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These are the T bolts holding my grilles on today.
I got a few of those laying around here somewhere.
Thanks guys! It does take some work now so keep that in mind. It just doesn't get shiny on its on! LOL! I stood in front of that grinder on concrete until my feet was about to kill me. I need one of those rubber mats. But I don't have time to whine about it.:sad6: I got to get it done. Here is the next piece that is up to bat. The headlight cover. You can see that it is got a scratch/dent that I've got to get out CAREFULLY.
Been there and done all this on a 67 Dart - lotsa trim, rockers, full length body moulding, etc. For some pieces, to strip off the clear - I built a trough out of a piece of vinyl rain gutter, allowed me to soak it overnite in the solution. Can't find the product online right now, but I bought it at a show - a little stronger than lye, really did the trick. I polished every bit of aluminum on the car, then had it all clear powder-coated to preserve the bare aluminum. Don't know how many times I shot pieces across the garage ! Many, many hours, but worth it compared to the quotes I got on polishing!This pic doesnt really show, But it was beeeyoutiful ....
Looks awesome. I used metal prep from an auto body supply shop that also worked very well. I'll bet lye was much cheaper. The metal prep brought the shine back to my sill plates with a wipe down but its harsh and you need gloves. I got that tip from my Dad who painted plenty of aluminum in the RCAF "Royal Canadian Air Force". He painted my 70 340 duster when I was a kid. I was the only guy I know who's paint job was guaranteed to stay on at mach two.
Oh the stories I could tell about wide bottom women whos job it was to debur and detail small parts at a shop I worked for. But anyway , they used the nice type swiveling bar stools that have a back. They got leveraage like body english against the buffer wheel. I can probably get you decent used worksation mat for free.
Ask him has he ever seen the "Snow Birds".
Free mat! That would work! I think I'll drag out one of the bar stools in my kitchen out to the garage and try that. I don't have a nice shop but I do have a nice garage that I use for both. I use 3/4" plywood setting on saw horses as a table in which the grinder and vice are mounted to. :angry7: I want to build a shop out back one day before I die but prices of material just shot up recently so....
Great job. I was one of the guys who had the anodizing removed and reapplied after the job was finished. Like you, that did not represent the majority of the work done. There's over 400 hours on the panel between the tail lights.
'Ax, you never cease to amaze and inspire us with your do it yourself approach to things. I , on the other hand am too lazy to take the grille bezels apart and grind rivets and stuff so I just polished mine as a whole and hoped for the best. I could still use a better buff job and some good eastwood buffing products.
RedFish and Mullinax Thanks for the help. I will make a trip to the hardware store this weekend. I have an Ace a few blocks from me. Mahalo Stormin
I know that it took some studying to find out what I needed to do and how to take care of the aluminum after it is installed back on the car. Also it told me what I can do the trim here at the house rather than send it off. To Anodize or not Anodize? MCB evaluates each piece individually and determines if it should be anodized or not. The reason for this is as follows: If any flaws remain in the part after restoration, anodization will only magnify the flaw - and once it's anodized you're stuck with what you get. The anodization process opens up the pores of the metal, assisting any hidden pitting or oxidization areas that cannot be seen post buffing and polishing. This typically results in a very different look than anticipated prior to anodization. These cars today are not exposed out in the elements to really have anodization as an oxidation protectant. I personally have found that I obtain a better appearance with a once a year hand polish of all my aluminum trim. I own 2 muscle cars and none of my trim is anodized. Another benefit with non-anodized parts are if minor scratches occur, hand buffing will usually remove them. With anodized parts what you see is what you'll have unless you strip (remove) all the anodization. In some cases we will anodize the part and then remove the anodization locally where we want the bare aluminum to show and can then therefore be hand polished to whatever level the owner desires. -- Matt Bollaert: Owner MCB Metal Restoration / Tuff Wheel Restoration
spaz, You can get the buffing wheels and compounds at Ace Hardware. The products are made by DICO. The buffing wheels might not be as nice and strudy as the Eastwood models but they ARE cheaper and you don't have to pay for shipping. However Eastwood had some wheels on clearance the last time I was there in which they was $4.88 each.
Haborfreight tools has various buffer wheels. Lowes carries polishing compounds for different hardness metals too. For anyone following this thread and thinking of jumping in... there are 2 ways to remove the grilles. My back wont let me lean over the header panel and fish for rusted nuts. I lay an old blanket in front of the car and remove the front tag support , then the bumper. Next are the headlight doors/bezels then header panel bolts. 2 in each corner and 3 across the top center. Pull the entire header grille assembly and lay face down. Be forwarned, when you put it back you'll need a helper and some poker cards held in the 4 corners or you'll scratch the fenders. Line it up with the hood and the fenders before tightening any bolts ! Stuff I learned the hard way
I finally can wrap this thread up because I was able to get some pictures today. I hope maybe someone can benefit from this thread. Now that it is all over I have found a big electric motor in which I can attach my buffing wheels to instead on the bench grinder. The big motor turns way more RPM than the bench grinder so that would really help to get things done. Oh well... that's the way the ball bounces I guess. My hood inserts and PLYMOUTH letting will be shipped to me Monday from the chrome place. I couldn't wait... I had to take some pics while I could. LOL
LOOKS GREAT ! When did you say you would be ready to start on my grilles ?
Thanks! Give me a few weeks... LOL! There is two things that I've got to work out and that is to find a appropriate height stool and a thick rubber mat. The constant standing will work on the legs and the back. I wore tennis shoes on concrete... that seemed to be better than my work boots. The buffing action builds up static electricity and it has to discharge somewhere... most of the time it would discharge between my knuckle and the bench grinder housing. It doesn't really hurt but the shock scares me and I jump. I thought maybe a thick rubber mat would keep me from grounding. I hate wearing gloves so that's why I don't insulate my hands like that.
Hey Ax' that looks great! I can't wait till you get your hood inserts and P L Y M O U T H script back from the chrome dudes, that will look really sweet. They should turn out nice, mine sure did and they thought the script was not gonna turn out as nice as it did but the little letters did great in the dip. What kind of camera are you using? That thing has some pretty good resolution and you always have those sparkly things in the sun on your chrome. Looking good dude, and it looks like a spring day in your picture.
looks great mullinax. I diddn't know about the static electricity. Make sure you dont have any gas leaks!!!!! toolman
Now THAT, is restoration! Excellent work, sir. George
theres a little ground thingy . Wraps around te wrist , whatever. Aligater clip to ground. RadioShack should have them. Constant ground means no charge built. We'll get you a mat. chair, deer stand , matress, whatever it takes. LOL
Thanks Spaz! I'm using a Sony Camcorder that has a digital camera built into it. I'm not sure why my pictures turn out the way they do. I think I need to get a digital camera with better resolution. I don't think it suppose to look like that. I took some video today but have not went through the process of getting them on the computer. I've GOT to get a video up and running like you have of your car on FABO. Just haven't took the time. Hey Spaz.... notice the turn signals? I painted them flat black on the inside. I just don't like the shiny look of them the other way. I'm trying to go stealth with them a little bit. That super nice 67 cuda on Barret Jackson didn't have any at all. I believe they where located at the bottom of the head lights. You've probably seen those before. I tell you what ... that spark that comes off of it makes a spark plug look sick! Thanks George!
That is funny! I'll have to stop RS and see what they've got... thanks!
nobody sells lye around my area does anyone know what else will work
You can buy oven cleaner that contains lye. Works just as well. George