How do you guys remove speed nuts?

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Caberocks

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I've got my glove box out, working on getting the center console out (73 Dart Swinger). How in the heck do you get the speed nuts off? They are not speedy and they are driving me nuts!
I can mess with them a little (the space back there is cramped) and get them to turn some, but I'm wondering if there's a trick to it? I was thinking about trying to get a paint can opener under the edge and prying, but was curious how you guys do this. Is there a better tool or way?
 
If im thinking of same nuts your talkin about, sometimes need a little pressure from behind as you loosen.
For example, on emblems/etc. if you pull out slightly on emblem putting pressure on nut while loosening, generally will grab and loosen.
 
A lot of time they are used on an unthreaded post. Especially if (as they often are) turned too far they will not back up the thread they cut . If you can get a start again they often follow it. Sliding something under or forcing on an angle as you turn can help get them going. If really bad and you can get at them sometimes the easiest thing it to cut/break them off, Just don't break the stud (often cast or plastic). On duster they were on taillight studs and I broke a stud trying to remove. I do agree with Leanna - nutdriver is tool of choice for turning them.
 
And......

To reuse them, you can very gently push the crown down to make the hole a tiny bit smaller again.

Set the wide part down on a hard surface & very gently push the high part down just a smidge with something like a nut driver handle.
 
Those nuts behind the dash face are a pain.
Slip a butter knife between the bezel and frame, and use that to apply slight outward pressure as you unscrew the nuts.
That inboard one on the upper drivers side is really tough. Cluster must be out, and you have to drop the harness from its upper looms, and bend the outer most loom holder all the way up.
Have fun
 
Very quickly- they are speed nuts.....
But a nut driver and a small screwdriver/pocket knife/whatever fits behind them works well.
 
I've had one or 2 of those same nuts ( cadmium plated 3/8 hex cut nuts on a hollow stem ) refuse to back off. Getting all those that would back off first then prying between the finish bezel and dash worked.
Last resort is crushing that hollow stem.
 
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