how do you make 550+hp hook on the street ??

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The video 318 will win Posted was almost 2 years old and I've got a couple things figured out period please this is not about that at all.
 
j par said:
The video 318 will win Posted was almost 2 years old and I've got a couple things figured out period please this is not about that at all.
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Hey, why didn't I think of that..... 318willwin.... :realcrazy:

J par, What ya need to do to your rear shocks is...... Ooops
I saw a guy hook with a 9.20 140 mph+ car, but it was a AWD Eagle Talon. Yep, 4 banger with big BIG boost
 
Okay sorry about that. But I thought giving an example of what my maybe 400 horse car does on track, good street and bad street might help.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Jpar, while I have not had that much power on the street, what have have done in the past with my heavier E body 4spd and BF Goodrich tires was a low rpm dump or a slight higher rpm launch with a slower engagement of the clutch. Once it grabs, the pedal goes down as quick as the tires can handle it.

It takes a lot of practice and understanding of the road and the day's conditions to learn what the car will handle for that moment.

When in doubt, walk it out, stomp the go pedal as much as permissible by the car.

The E body chassis set ups was never extensive. Basic parts. S/S springs, soft air shocks, dead front shocks, snubber about 1/2 to 3/4 from the floor. 275/60/15 rear tires.
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That's why you use a 2 step to control launch RPM. It's just another tool you can use to compensate for track and weather conditions.
 
j par said:
I'm asking if you will again, how would you you you you you make 550 Plus horsepower hook on the street. Not me not my car.
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My current build is a street/strip 71 dart. As light as possible (shooting for 2700ish). Rear suspension is yet to be determined. I'm waiting on a sketch of control freaks parallel 4 link to see if I like the geometry (the arms are short to retain the rear seat). Ford 8.8 rear. Mini tub 325 drag radials. Coil over, rack and pinion front end. Double adjustables all around. 12pt cage. Engine is yet to be determined (K-frame is obviously gone, so it'll be hung from a plate). Either a gen3 or a LS. Either way it'll be carb/TBI and roughly 550hp. Trans will be a 4060L.
 
How to get 550 hooked on the street...

A great set up from the flywheel back and through a superior chassis set up. It's really that simple!

Lots of hard work.
 
318willrun said:
Hey, why didn't I think of that..... 318willwin.... :realcrazy:

J par, What ya need to do to your rear shocks is...... Ooops
I saw a guy hook with a 9.20 140 mph+ car, but it was a AWD Eagle Talon. Yep, 4 banger with big BIG boost
Click to expand...

no fair, now each tire only needs to convert 150ish HP to the pavement instead of 300ish
 
yellow rose said:
That's why you use a 2 step to control launch RPM. It's just another tool you can use to compensate for track and weather conditions.
Click to expand...
Well you should have told the 20 year old kid back then.
(Me 30 years ago)
Good to state it here and now for those who need the info, with a good example.
 
..i'm late to this party,and have no experience at that level but the FAST class do very well and
it is how they launch like Rumble suggests...not at WOT.
D Dudick runs 9.9's at 140 with his 700 plus HP Hemi Road Runner on F70 15 belted red lines.
One secret is holding the distributor advance back.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Well you should have told the 20 year old kid back then.
(Me 30 years ago)
Good to state it here and now for those who need the info, with a good example.
Click to expand...


I have to admit I was late to the 2 step party. I ran MFI and a Mallory Super Mag III that was almost 5 amps. 2 steps were hard to come by.

But they are a valuable tool. Rather than making a clutch change, or a shock adjustment you can move the 2 step RPM and make the car hook. Or, if the track is biting like you are on cogs you can hit the hell out of it.
 
j par said:
Okay steering This Thread back on track again LOL I'm not asking about my car at all. I know it sucks on the tracks I know I'm not getting traction I know my rear end is junk I know my suspension is junk I know I know I know. I'm asking if you will again, how would you you you you you make 550 Plus horsepower hook on the street. Not me not my car.
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JPar,

You claim you aren't talking/refering to YOUR car about hooking, that you are asking some hypothetical 550hp street car hooking up on the street...........thing is, after 8 to 10 pages of suggestions, build recipes, ideas, a,b,c, 1,2,3 connect the dots lay outs of "HOW TO" you just might find some information you could use on your car (even though you claim not to be) so that it doesn't quite suck (your descriptor) so much. Hook is hook.........if you can hook 250hp and really make it work, you can hook 500, a 1000hp. Regardless of the amount of power basic universal principals apply at any level; that's what needs to be learned, and understood. You've been working on this "hypothetical" car now for 3 years...............

Good luck!
 
For a street car. I think too many build an engine for some vague application.

If your only gonna run stock ish set up with skinny hockey puck tires then no need of building a 550 hp beast of an engine. Maybe a 350 hp 318 might be better with that setup.

I think the first step is deciding what your willing to run from suspension to tires to gears to stall etc... And build an engine thats
Works with your compromises.

Also like AJ/FormS likes to point out for a fun street engine 20-50 mph in first gear is where you should spend a good amount of time designing your engine since that's where you'll be spending most of you time playing around.
 
Or, AKA, spend time on torque and moderate gearing.
 
I'll be following this thread closely although I'm only making 500hp and haven't driven the car yet. My plans are to drive it on the street this summer to get to know it's characteristics and probably ruin a set of drag radials. I'll add a set of Caltracs asap, but I am anxious to get it back on the road.
 
I believe I've made it quite clear that this question came about watching a members thread about a 550 + hp street build. That same day I was taking the duster out on its street tires. (Again 18inch modern muscle car) with only about 425hp (flywheel). And I always learn something from Reading these threads even if it's who not to listen too...
JBurch said:
JPar,

You claim you aren't talking/refering to YOUR car about hooking, that you are asking some hypothetical 550hp street car hooking up on the street...........thing is, after 8 to 10 pages of suggestions, build recipes, ideas, a,b,c, 1,2,3 connect the dots lay outs of "HOW TO" you just might find some information you could use on your car (even though you claim not to be) so that it doesn't quite suck (your descriptor) so much. Hook is hook.........if you can hook 250hp and really make it work, you can hook 500, a 1000hp. Regardless of the amount of power basic universal principals apply at any level; that's what needs to be learned, and understood. You've been working on this "hypothetical" car now for 3 years...............

Good luck!
Click to expand...
JBurch said:
JPar,

You claim you aren't talking/refering to YOUR car about hooking, that you are asking some hypothetical 550hp street car hooking up on the street...........thing is, after 8 to 10 pages of suggestions, build recipes, ideas, a,b,c, 1,2,3 connect the dots lay outs of "HOW TO" you just might find some information you could use on your car (even though you claim not to be) so that it doesn't quite suck (your descriptor) so much. Hook is hook.........if you can hook 250hp and really make it work, you can hook 500, a 1000hp. Regardless of the amount of power basic universal principals apply at any level; that's what needs to be learned, and understood. You've been working on this "hypothetical" car now for 3 years...............

Good luck!
Click to expand...
 
well, i took my duster out on nitto drag radials today for the first time

still broke loose unless i eased into it, and thats with 420 horses and 3.23 gears
 
diymirage said:
well, i took my duster out on nitto drag radials today for the first time

still broke loose unless i eased into it, and thats with 420 horses and 3.23 gears
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peg leg don't count. ha ha, get a grip ! a suregrip.
 
My car 3330 with me in it with big block and 525 hp and 552 tq. Tires are Mcreary or all American racer tires. Soft tread pattern. 10" converter flashes to 3800 and 3.73 gears. Afco rear leafs,adjustable pinion snubber. Rancho 10 position shocks on the rear, and Strange 10 position shocks up front with 340 bars. Run tires at 20 psi for street driving, after a couple of hits they get heat in them and bite. Evident by the wrinkled side walls and getting thrown into the seat feeling.
 
Fisher said:
My car 3330 with me in it with big block and 525 hp and 552 tq. Tires are Mcreary or all American racer tires. Soft tread pattern. 10" converter flashes to 3800 and 3.73 gears. Afco rear leafs,adjustable pinion snubber. Rancho 10 position shocks on the rear, and Strange 10 position shocks up front with 340 bars. Run tires at 20 psi for street driving, after a couple of hits they get heat in them and bite. Evident by the wrinkled side walls and getting thrown into the seat feeling.
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Is that a DOT tire? I think the OP was talking about DOT tires.
 
Yes its a DOT tire. L-60/15 on an 8" wheel.


2i89kja.jpg
 
diymirage said:
well, i took my duster out on nitto drag radials today for the first time

still broke loose unless i eased into it, and thats with 420 horses and 3.23 gears
Click to expand...
I have read numerous times, that nitto radials don`t hook as good as others. jfyi ???
 
I just bought a set of M/T 275/60/15 Drag radials. the S/S series. Tired of having radials and bias ply mix on my car.
 
2 step, 4 link, coil overs and big wrinkle walls. Lots of heat on the meat.
I can personally tell you, you will hook so hard it will break ****.....
 
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