how should I attack the rust in this area

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Tadams

Tadams

Tadams
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This is the hood of my 65 barracuda. I need to take care of the rust. I can sand what I can see, but how do I take care of the area I can't sand.

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This is another place that will be needing some help

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I hate it when somebody's punchline is timed to when I'm drinking a Coke.
 
Not sure about the soda blasting, the Eastwood may be a good way to go. I hope to solve the problem and not have to worry about rust being an issue down the road
 
Maybe look around for another hood. In addition to the rust, yours is cracked.
 
I know of no good way to get in between the panels. My experience is that they continue to rust from the inside out.
 
Wow, I looked a little closer. I think I'd be searching the for sale ads.
 
Tadams said:
This is the hood of my 65 barracuda. I need to take care of the rust. I can sand what I can see, but how do I take care of the area I can't sand.

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Mig up that crack and put a backer plate inside it to help keep it stiff, then ospho, works GREAT in those areas. pour it in the seams duck tape the holes and slosh it around so covers the whole inner area. it converts the rust , done deal.
 
GeorgeH said:
I know of no good way to get in between the panels. My experience is that they continue to rust from the inside out.
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I agree with George. All of these treatments are great except in tight areas like these where a skin wraps around a frame (as with hoods, decklids and doors). Any rust that is left in those tight bends (and it is unlikely that you will be able to get it all out) will come back. You are going to have to cut, fabricate and weld. I cut off the entire bottom 2" of my decklid years ago and fabricated all new parts and welded them in. Years later - no rust. Sorry to be a buzz kill, but that's how rust is. If you lived near me, I'd help you.
 
harrisonm said:
I agree with George. All of these treatments are great except in tight areas like these where a skin wraps around a frame (as with hoods, decklids and doors). Any rust that is left in those tight bends (and it is unlikely that you will be able to get it all out) will come back. You are going to have to cut, fabricate and weld. I cut off the entire bottom 2" of my decklid years ago and fabricated all new parts and welded them in. Years later - no rust. Sorry to be a buzz kill, but that's how rust is. If you lived near me, I'd help you.
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Yep!
Soda blast media, depending on what's used, can itself and the residue be corrosive. If any residue creeps out of seems it can take paint with it. Rust-mort and Ospho which I have used both, and like, seem to work 100 times better when you can get the loose stuff off and actually get to the pitting. Not saying it won't help some, but there's just no way to get in between the panels to clean it up or insure that the Ospho gets down into the nooks and crannys. All you can do is clean it up the best that you can and hope for the best. Without getting the rust 100% gone the repair might last 6 months or 6 years you never can tell.
 
Actually there isn't a crack. I haven't sanded the area where I took the picture. That is a where some paint dropped across the area. I went back and looked to make sure.
Thanks for the comments
 
Where the yellow arrows are...that area is not a paint drip...That is a major crack that needs to be attended to...like welded up or a new hood.

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like said, Ospho works best when you clean off the area first, it is an acid and works differently than "rust convertors". what is inside a hood, who knows.
there is a reason cars from the "dry" areas of our country warrant higher prices and spending $$ for shipping! we all like to think if we spend all this time and $$, the final results of our cars will be totally like NEW, they will NEVER ever rust anywhere, for ever! BUT, doing the best job feasible, and then keeping them in a garage! will let them last for many more decades! have ya ever seen one of our cars that were actually taken care of from the time it left the factory!? they can survive pretty good.
 
harrisonm said:
I agree with George. All of these treatments are great except in tight areas like these where a skin wraps around a frame (as with hoods, decklids and doors). Any rust that is left in those tight bends (and it is unlikely that you will be able to get it all out) will come back. You are going to have to cut, fabricate and weld. I cut off the entire bottom 2" of my decklid years ago and fabricated all new parts and welded them in. Years later - no rust. Sorry to be a buzz kill, but that's how rust is. If you lived near me, I'd help you.
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I'm not too sure about the ospho not getting in those tight bends. I worked at Jim Vince Dodge body shop on fort street lincoln park Mi.and we got to go to where they made the sub assemblies we had to fix. IE doors/hoods/trunk lids ect. and they were just machine bent to the sub-frame assembly with a couple of tack welds to prevent shifting, exactly like a door skin. sometimes they had a "putty the oozed over into the edges but for the most part it's just a bend over an edge. Rust in that area is just as easy to have the thin liquid ospho seep into as any other inner area. that is why I always duck tape closed all but one hole , pour in the ospho tape that hole and rotate the part every which way to coat the inner surfaces.(you should see what a 2/3rds yard cement mixer with a hood strapped on it rotating looks like) I've got a 65 Plymouth hood that was in worse shape that that hood and it has not shown rust through in 13 years of being driven most days of the warm driving weather in Michigan. looks just as good as the day after we oshpo'd /painted it. doors were done too and have never shown any sign of rusting through even on the lower edge.
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