How to get my car into 12 seconds?

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hemied said:
One of the first things I always do, is discard the factory 5/16 fuel line from the tank, all the way to the engine. I think it is the biggest overlooked restriction with a lot of projects.
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I've run the factory 5/16 line on 440s running a mechanical pump and high 11.60s at 115. It's not nearly as much of a problem as many think until you really need to move some fuel. What is important is steady fuel pressure, fuel level in the tank, and if a mechanical pump the ability of the pump arm to follow the rod or eccentric at higher rpm. With one power valve and four jets of around .088" you have enough flow as long as the pressure is 8psi and the pickup never gets uncovered. The problem is most mechanical stock-type pumps only push about 5psi at best and a lot of non-racers run 1/4 tank or less. A friend with a 383 RR was disappointed after I did some carb and tuning work for him at the track and the car didn't pick up much. So I got in it, turned the key, and he had under 1/4 tank "because fuel's heavy". I put 1/2 tank in it and the car dropped 8 tenths.
 
hemied said:
Well you guys are in agreement on this, but Mother Mopar saw fit to put 3/8 on cars that would not run 12s from the factory. :dontknow:
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Ma Mopar doesn't allways do it right or best when it comes to a stock car vs a race car needs. Then again, a 3/8th line in a car that doesn't do 12's from the factory may have to live under some crazy track rule. IDK as well there. What Moper said in addition. Stock pumps are low PSI and volume while a Carter Mech. pump is available in 2 upgraded styles, 1 needing a regulator.
Ethier will fit the bill well here.
 
this is for the OP...if you dont already have a pump and need a replacement pump there is a guy on moparts selling the used top of the line carter mechanical pump that is now discontinued in the race parts for sale section...he only wants 80 for it and its new in the box...only reason i havent scooped it up is because im eventually going to go electric with my nitrous
 
Sorry, I may sound dumb, but what does OP mean? I've seen it a few times in other threads..
 
well guys some great opinions coming out here.

unfortunatly no NOS, it would get me into alot of trouble and the local cops would have my car within days. Like i said the most gear i'm gonna do is 3.91's, this car is a street car with some fun drag passes, i won't be at the track every weekend. The fuel lines all need replaced anyways because they're rotted to s%!t and i'm actually suprised that they're still in one piece. I'm thinking i'll stay with the stock fuel pump (assuming it's stock) and replace it when it gives me trouble. I got a holley strip domonator intake(older single plane) for christmas from my boss(yes yes i know it's not the best thing for my application but it was free to me and will outperform the stock one on it now), later on it will be an air gap. I've got a brand new edelbrock thunder series 650 that my dad gave me for christmas. I still need to hear from my tranny guy to see what he found out, i'm hopeing to go with the 904 with a shift kit for weight reasons. Oh and yes i do like girls and i know what you mean but like mshred was sayin if she can't handle me working on the car, she's not stayin around. I know what you guys mean and yes i'm young, the main idea here was to see what different guys though i'd need to get into the 12's see what different options i had. Again thanks everyone for all the opinions, i now have a bit better idea what will be necessary and any more opinions are welcome!!
 
Atta-boy there Greg! You tell'em.
12's aint hard, not cheap ethier..LOL!
 
lol thanks rumble, i'm gonna give it my best shot anyways, i hear ya about the not being cheap either. At first i was thinking 350-400 rwhp and that wouldn't be a huge deal but then i started looking at stroker kits and decent aftermarket heads and my day dream came to a quick stop, o well i'll work with what i can afford, again thanks for your help everyone, your thoughts are much appretiated
 
your stock stroke 360 will make the power you want fine man, just careful planning as you already know...if i was you replacing the fuel lines, you mine as well do your system once and put a good high volume pump on there, but thats just my opinion i understand money is tight

oh, and why would nitrous get you in trouble? did you plan on using it on the street? LOL...even still, people think nitrous is cheap, but your looking at atleast about 1k to do it right by the time you buy the kit, upgrade your fuel system, wiring, etc..

either way good luck, and let us know how many times you can get touched in a 12 second run! there are records out there to beat! LOL
 
mshred said:
your stock stroke 360 will make the power you want fine man, just careful planning as you already know...if i was you replacing the fuel lines, you mine as well do your system once and put a good high volume pump on there, but thats just my opinion i understand money is tight

oh, and why would nitrous get you in trouble? did you plan on using it on the street? LOL...even still, people think nitrous is cheap, but your looking at atleast about 1k to do it right by the time you buy the kit, upgrade your fuel system, wiring, etc..

either way good luck, and let us know how many times you can get touched in a 12 second run! there are records out there to beat! LOL
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I agree, you will be out around 1K with a decent nitrous set-up, don't understand you getting in trouble with it, hell, you can get in trouble NA if you race around, but even if your out the 1K for nitrous, its well worth it, thats what i'm planning, but i'm shooting for 11s.
 
Duster's first pass at the track had a 2.25 60 ft with a 9.22 1/8 mile. Beat the Malibu , lol .
The verter was a tci street fighter 3000 with a rear ratio of 2.42 , ran the 1/8 mile in first gear. so a verter will help, with no other mods
 
ya a converter is something that i hope is left in the budget when everything essential is done, i'm not sure where i'm gonna go with it yet but we'll see as time goes on i guess. Nitrous would be great but i'm not a huge fan of it, just a personal prefrance, anyone can make something fast with nitrous, i'd rather be fast without it, even if it does take some time, plus i don't have the 1k for a decent setup. Where would you guys go with an aftermarket fuel pump? I'm not interested in going electric, since it's going to be mainly street car i really don't think that i'll get enough noticable results to make it worth while so who makes a good aftermarket mech. pump. Holley?? does carter make mech. ones?? Again thanks guys, this is all much appretiated
 
dude check out that pump on moparts....cant go wrong for 80 bucks, its the top of the line carter mechanical, flows more than a holley blue electric
 
where abouts on moparts, i went there but couldn't find it. can you post a link, i don't go on moparts so i'm not really sure where to go, thanks
 
looks like a good deal, thanks moper, what typically would be a stock GPH rating on my 360?? Because i see all these gph ratings but they don't really mean anything to me because i don't know what the stock flow numbers are
 
you probly will not have enough money to hit the 12's.
well, i really don't know how much money you will have ,but here is some info.to give you the basic setup.

Remember it has to last and not break and you have to many things to buy to keep it cheap.
Start with what you have and go from there with reliability in mind.
Also spend the most money on the most important stuff.

You have a intake(holley strip dominater intake)
carb(edelbrock thunder series 600)
used 360(in good condition and having no problems)

What you will need next is to complete the motor.
Heres a good all around combination for you.
call paw
camshaft \\ paw-221146 453lift\\224 @ 50 108 lc single pattern
(this cam will work with a stock or performance torque converter)
IF YOU CAN SWING A CONVERTER GET A 9 1/2 DYNAMIC 3500 STALL SPEED WITH A TRANS COOLER.
lifters part# 2011
valve springs vs-150 \\new valve seals
double roller timing chain\\
headers 1 5/8 dyno max
GET A COMPLETE GASKET KIT FROM PAW replace all gaskets except head gaskets.
carb spacer \\ four hole 1 inch jegs
mancini racing air cleaner \\ cheap = 24 bucks good for hood clearance
carter fuel pump \if changing fuel line go to 3/8
msd wires
msd coil
mopar performance crome box ignition
take your stock electronic distributor and install a set of lightweight springs from mancini =$12.95
auto light 3924 plugs
new fuel filter \\steel filter \ install before fuel pump
your half way there \\\
new muffler system \\get the mufflers from jegs or summit and have a local shop put pipes on the car and stop before going over the rear axle.(cheap)3 inch
MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE CAR AND WERE THE MONEY SHOULD BE SPENT.
BRAKES \\ MAKE SURE THERE GOOD
REAR GEARS AT LEAST A 3.91 AND A ADJUSTIBLE PINION SNUBBER.
TIRES \\ BRAND NEW DOT STREET SLICKS HOOSIER QUICK TIME PROS.
26 INCH TIRES
A CHEETAH VALVE BODY SO YOU CAN SHIFT THE CAR WHEN YOU WANT TO.
17676 CHEETAH #
NEW TORQUE CONVERTER BOLTS.

A TACH (SUN PRO 2)AUTO ZONE 45 BUCKS
NEW UNIVERSAL JOINTS ON YOUR DRIVE SHAFT FRONT AND REAR.
ALL NEW MOTOR MOUNTS AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS.
GET THE MANCINI MAG MOUNTS \\ THEY DON'T BREAK AS EASY AS STOCK
Thats it in a nut shell \\ oh and don't forget oil\coolant\hoses\clamps\fuel
inspection\reg and ...........................

I hope you heard this motor run before you do all this work.
If not, i would try to get info on how it ran and if it smoked at all from who you bought it from .
check the motor out if you don't know.GOOD LUCK
P.S. IF THE CAR GO'S 13'S YOU WILL NEED A DRIVE SHAFT LOOP.
AND YOU WANT TO GO 12'S:evil4: \\\ HEY YOU NEVER KNOW.







run stock torque converter \\ save money
add everthing up before you start so you know you have enough money.
 
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