I need the truth about wheel adaptors

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First I would like to thank everyone that responded to my question. I think the best way to go is to change to the BBP and forget about adapters for safety sake. I put allot of time and money into the build and after all the info all of you gave me I think that would be the best way to go. Not sure what all I have to change, I think the axels, rear drums & front hubs & rotors, maybe more. If anyone has the parts I need i would like to hear from you. I will start a new thread in the proper place to see what responce I get. Thanks again to all
 
gunmetal72 said:
First I would like to thank everyone that responded to my question. I think the best way to go is to change to the BBP and forget about adapters for safety sake. I put allot of time and money into the build and after all the info all of you gave me I think that would be the best way to go. Not sure what all I have to change, I think the axels, rear drums & front hubs & rotors, maybe more. If anyone has the parts I need i would like to hear from you. I will start a new thread in the proper place to see what responce I get. Thanks again to all
Click to expand...

You will need the complete rear end if yours is a 7 1/4, upper control arms, spindles, calipers, backing plates, rotors, master cylinder and a disc brake proportioning valve to start with.

If you change to some rear end different than your car has in it then you will need a drive shaft also. I wouldn't waste my time putting in another 7 1/4 if that is what you have.

If you have the 8 3/4 then you will need backing plates, all brake parts, drums and new axles made.
 
Mine are from Summit racing.15X4 sbp 15x7 on the rear and 15x6 on the front.I just put them on two days ago.Oh and they sell 15x8 as well.
 

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I've noticed a pattern here with those who have had problems.

A: they were WAY back in time when the technology and stress tests we have today didn't exist

B: they've bought cheapie bs from jc Whitney (automotive dollar general) or some other retailer because the price was right.

Has anyone that purchased billet wheel adapters in the last 3-5 years that HAVE had issues? Billet aluminum from my understanding of what I googled, is the same material and machining method used in our beloved aluminum blocks, heads, wheels... I may be wrong on the last part, the link I read was a little iffy IMO. I'm sure there's someone on this site that makes these and other items for a living that can shed some accurate light. Here's hoping.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
You will need the complete rear end if yours is a 7 1/4, upper control arms, spindles, calipers, backing plates, rotors, master cylinder and a disc brake proportioning valve to start with.

If you change to some rear end different than your car has in it then you will need a drive shaft also. I wouldn't waste my time putting in another 7 1/4 if that is what you have.

If you have the 8 3/4 then you will need backing plates, all brake parts, drums and new axles made.
Click to expand...

I have a 8 3/4 diff. I did not know it took that much changing. Sounds like it might be cheaper to go with something like 68383gts. They look really cool. (changed my mind again) I think I still like the ones that look like the old style keystone torque thrust, personal choice. I got his link from tool man mike. http://www.team3wheels.com/classic_v.html Just need to find ones that look like them just a little cheaper
 
I run 1 inch wheels adapters on all four corners. I have 17x8 bullet wheels 5.8 bs I believe. I have 275 wide nitto drag radials with 3.91 gears Detroit trutrac full manual valve body 904 with a moderate built 340 (400-450 crank hp) . I have had no issues and I drive like I'm trying to run from the police:burnout:. I bought my adapters from stokers hot rod shop in Cali. American made adapters no eBay shyt. I would never say they are as good as swapping bolt patterns but on a budget you can't go wrong. Torque them correctly monitor them make sure they stay tight like you would with alloy wheels and you will have no issue. Like its been said I've have buddies run them on offroad trucks 40 inch tires and 500 hp big blocks with no issue, way more stress than a street car can create. They are not spacers I would never run spacers those are dangerous adapters are like bolting on alloy wheels.
 
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