I need the truth about wheel adaptors

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gunmetal72

gunmetal72

Life is a dark ride
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Seems there is not much of a selection when it comes to finding a 15" SBP wheel to fit my Duster. i currently have SBP 14 X 5.5 ralleys and would like to put on something wider but I am limited to the selection of 14" tires. There is a good selection of LBP 15" wheels but I would need to change to LBP on the car. So, my question is, how reliable/safe are the adaptors to go from a SBP to LBP?
 
Wheel adapters have been sold for decades. They may not be as safe as a steel wheel but if installed properly and driven responsibly they should be ok. Here's some wheels available in small bolt pattern that you may have not seen. They are so spendy but really cool I think. They come in cast and check out the polished ones. Many sizes and offsets too. tmm


http://www.team3wheels.com/classic_v.html
 
toolmanmike said:
Wheel adapters have been sold for decades. They may not be as safe as a steel wheel but if installed properly and driven responsibly they should be ok. Here's some wheels available in small bolt pattern that you may have not seen. They are so spendy but really cool I think. They come in cast and check out the polished ones. Many sizes and offsets too. tmm


http://www.team3wheels.com/classic_v.html
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I love the look of those and they would look gr8 on my car but are very pricey. It would cost me $1600 + shipping just for the wheels. maybe lotto ticket?
 
As long as you use the billet adapter and not the cast aluminium ones you will be fine.
Rock climbers in jeeps and such use billet spacers that are 2 inches thick and throw tons of power at them with no failure
 
I am leaning toward the cragar SS or the old style keystone touque thrust, they are very similar to the ones tool man sent. I have seen the ones from Summit but I don't think they sell 15X8 in a 3 1/2" back space for SBP.
 
74DartSwinger360 said:
As long as you use the billet adapter and not the cast aluminium ones you will be fine.
Rock climbers in jeeps and such use billet spacers that are 2 inches thick and throw tons of power at them with no failure
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X2, but dont run slicks at the track with them if you plan on drag racing!
 
gunmetal72 said:
I am leaning toward the cragar SS or the old style keystone touque thrust, they are very similar to the ones tool man sent. I have seen the ones from Summit but I don't think they sell 15X8 in a 3 1/2" back space for SBP.[/QUOTE

you want 4 1/2 BS for sbp
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toolmanmike said:
Wheel adapters have been sold for decades. They may not be as safe as a steel wheel but if installed properly and driven responsibly they should be ok. Here's some wheels available in small bolt pattern that you may have not seen. They are so spendy but really cool I think. They come in cast and check out the polished ones. Many sizes and offsets too. tmm


http://www.team3wheels.com/classic_v.html
Click to expand...

RustyRatRod said:
Just swap to the BBP.
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I have thought about it but I think its costy to change the rear axels and the front hubs. not sure though
 
gunmetal72 said:
I have thought about it but I think its costy to change the rear axels and the front hubs. not sure though
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It is a one time expense......and while there are several folks that say the spacers are safe there is an equal, if not larger number that say the opposite. Your car, your $$, your life do as you chose......
 
I have asked this question several times but never seen an answer. What is the difference between a billet aluminum adapter and an aluminum wheel that bolts directly to the hub? You can use a different back space on the wheels to make up for the thickness of the adapter so that isn't an issue.
 
My two cents worth here............YEARS ago, I felt the same way, bought adapters, tightened correctly-even used red Loctite........drove Dart for approx 100 miles-no probs.

Two days later, I was on a trip to my Mom's and back(40 miles roundtrip) and coming home, lost the left rear wheel at 65 mph........it was a sobering ride to say the least!
Damaged the wheel beyond repair...........AND the left quarter panel.

LONG STORY SHORT- If I had changed over to the large bolt pattern, I'd actually have been about 50 bucks ahead total...........not to mention still having the original quarter panel......and the original paint............and that pair of drawers.......they were REALLY super comfy................
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I have asked this question several times but never seen an answer. What is the difference between a billet aluminum adapter and an aluminum wheel that bolts directly to the hub? You can use a different back space on the wheels to make up for the thickness of the adapter so that isn't an issue.
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The studs, instead of being firmly swaged int a steel hardened axle, are now only pressed into a thin aluminum spacer. Plus the wheel is now held on with cantilevered studs. The wheel spacer is, in my opinion, rube goldberg, and any engineer would not recommend it. As above, your car, your life, you decide.

Bite the bullet, do a proper conversion, or buy sbp wheels - if you have to get a custom set of wheels (stockton wheel?) and be done with it. You would be much better off than having cobbled something together.
 
Is perchance some confusion between wheel adapters and wheel spacers?
I'm not a huge fan of either, but adapters have been used for decades on off road vehicles and are even factory equipment on some vehicles. (Think Corvette knock off hubs).
 
d55dave said:
The studs, instead of being firmly swaged int a steel hardened axle, are now only pressed into a thin aluminum spacer. Plus the wheel is now held on with cantilevered studs. The wheel spacer is, in my opinion, rube goldberg, and any engineer would not recommend it. As above, your car, your life, you decide.

Bite the bullet, do a proper conversion, or buy sbp wheels - if you have to get a custom set of wheels (stockton wheel?) and be done with it. You would be much better off than having cobbled something together.
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The billet adapters are far from thin. The biggest issue I see is the hub register. I am surprised that the old cast Trans-Dapt adapters are still being made and sold since they are cast.
 
I, too, am leary from "back then." Guy I knew in the Navy really 'effed up a 67 Mustang. Cal Custom? Transdapt? don't know, but these were cast, not sure, probably pot metal.

Not on my car, thank you.
 
Dually Trucks run an adaptor/spacer on the front and often spacers on the rear. They have way more torque than any of our cars have and handle way more load. Just a thought.
 
The Truth?!?!?!?! YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE TRUTH!!!!! no wait......that's about something else. lol

The truth is they wheel spacers used to be cheap and scary. Now though, if you get good ones, they are fine. As long as you have the room width wise, go for it.
 
I have used adapters in the past . I never had a problem. But I was young and dumb. Not that I am any smarter. I would not use adapters on a vintage car for the chance of them doing damage. You will have five lugs on each wheel you cannot see. Are they staying tight? You won't know until its to late.

Be safe buy wheels that fit.
 
gunmetal72 said:
I am leaning toward the cragar SS or the old style keystone touque thrust, they are very similar to the ones tool man sent. I have seen the ones from Summit but I don't think they sell 15X8 in a 3 1/2" back space for SBP.
Click to expand...

I have a 67 Dart. I purchased the SBP 15 x 8 SS wheels from summit and they did not fit
I sold them and went with the SBP 15 x 7 SS with 255/60. Fit perfect, no lip rolling needed with 83/4
 
My cousin's front wheel and car parted ways after installing JC Whitney adapters to fit custom wheels about 30yrs ago.

I ran adapters on the rear of my duster for ten years with no issues, but was never comfortable with them on knowing what happened to his car years earlier.

I made the swap to BBP front disk brakes and an 8-1/4 rear and never looked back. The options are many once you make the switch. Wheel adapters cause wheel clearance issues but I would think billet ones would not be a safety issue.

Your car, your choice.
 
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