Indy LA-X vs. Eddy heads

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1wild&crazyguy said:
well I have only seen one speared through rocker on a sb mopar in my time, but I have seen numerous speared through big block rocker arms.
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So besides that, what other benefits are there, if they are supposedly so good...Inquiring minds wanna know...)
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
well I have only seen one speared through rocker on a sb mopar in my time, but I have seen numerous speared through big block rocker arms.

The reason for a roller tip when valve lift exceeds .500-.520'ish there is more side loading/scrubbing of the valve tip which will accellerate or cause pre mature wear on the guide, also at a point the non roller will wipe across and off of the edge of the valve stem, which where lash caps come into play when guys used to run circle track with the old 273 rockers.

The other reason for adjustables is pre load, or you could have various length push rods to really get it right, or adjustable push rods throughout, but usually when the accuracy becomes that important, the lift increases and the roller requirement comes onto play.O and when ya have a solid cam...ya kinda need'emlol

No matter, thats why there is a relm of preload in which it'll run and ya probably won't feel the diff if it's .020 off one way or the other

I'm sure there are other reasons
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mopardude318 said:
So besides that, what other benefits are there, if they are supposedly so good...Inquiring minds wanna know...)
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:read2:
 
With the springs we use, I wouldn't use stock rockers! I am working on a stock valve setup that we might sell that will have a mild single spring, stock type valves and we'll backcut the valves. That head you could run stock stuff on. I expect it to be about 1000.00 out the door.
I'll keep you guys posted. I'm so busy with work I barely get time to post things anymore!!
Brian
 
btw shaft mount rockers in general are much more stabler.

look at chevys breaking studs, nuts coming loose.

hyd-too wrong + of a pre load and you will float the valves
 
stock rockers will outperform rollers on stock to mild because they are lighter and work fine in that app. everything's a compromise. if you want the strength you have to add weight and the roller tip takes away from the friction and the side loading of the valve stem. the adjustability adds weight too but is a must for a high performance app.
 
Stock stamped rockers are fine and work very well with the smaller hyd. cams. The main reason I don't use them is the listed factory ratio of 1.5 is not even close, 1.45 is more like it. If you are putting together a street beater with under .500 lift cams you are good to go with them.

Terry
 
Ok guys!!!! I would hate to lock this thread but if this stuff keeps going,I WILL!!!!!! I got a PM concerning this thread and how far out this topic has gone so if it doesnt get back to what this topic is about,I WILL LOCK IT!!!!

You have been warned!!!!!
 
Not for nothing, but this thread has been long overdue.

I believe strongly in karma...you know, that those who make careers constantly shitting on others will eventually slip in their own **** and break their neck. And everyone will stand there looking at the poor SOB, and say "**** happens!"

Mikey, you know, there is an overwhelming concensus here...would you rather act in haste to silence that concensus, or simply address the constant "poopetrator" of the crime?

I think this is a good thread with a lot of useful info and a lot of clarification on things.
Am I off base?
 
Thread on the verge of being locked up! Warning warning!!!!!!!!

All parties please calm down.

Thank you, lets get back to where it should be going!
 
this thread just got more heated than spitfire header comments! still some good info and numbers on heads. if you guys keep it up i can cancel cable and just tune in daily. way off topic but whats the benifit of stroking a 340? i thought the whole glory of the 340 was the short stroke for high revs.

carry on!
 
Yes your right about the big bore and short stroke thing, but stroking provides mass cubes and torque power.
 
I don't understand. Heres some facts of how displacement works;

4.00 X 3.58 = 360
4.030 X 3.58 = 365
4.060 X 3.58 = 370

Now with a stroker crank @ 4.00 in the same bores

4.00 X 4.00 = 402
4.00 X 4.030= 4.08
4.00 X 4.060 = 4.14

In a 340 engine

4.040 X 3.313 = 339.8 AKA 340
4.070 X 3.313 = 344
4.100 X 3.313 = 4.449

Now with a 4 inch stroker crank installed;

4.040 X 4.00 = 4.10
4.07 X 4.00 = 4.16
4.100 X 4.00= 425.5

Did that help?
 
BLOW-DART said:
and do you gain more than if you were to just bore out a 360 a bit?
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Were getting off the OP question, but a better detour then the bickering(If we ignore it, it goes away by it's self!:clock:

any Hoow, you couldn't bore the block to equal the CI of a 4" stroke.

the 340 was marketed as the BIG BORE Hunter because of it short stroke and big bore. The bigger the bore......the bigger the valves the more power you make(at a high rpm)

The 340/360 with a 4" stroke can have larger valves(with in reason) and more CI ......could make the same power at much less rpm.........longer life of valve train.....and cheaper valve train.

Also for the same power level, the stroker is much better street manners.
 
BLOW-DART said:
and do you gain more than if you were to just bore out a 360 a bit?
Click to expand...

OH yeah! You can't believe how much power and acceleration you get from a 4" crank.
I love short stroke engines, but for the $$$ the more stroke the better...LOL!!
 
also seen places of people putting forged 318 truck cranks in a 340, im assuming that means they share the same stroke and journal sizes? and just to keep this on topic with out the bickering, ive got J heads on my 360 that is just mild build with kb hyper pistons and around 9.75:1. no machine shop level porting or polishing, just a gasket match on the exhaust ports that i did my self, running hydraulic lifter set up, non roller, worth it to do some port and polish work with out going to a roller valve train or pointless to do one with out the other on iron heads?
 
273,318.340 cranks all have the same stroke.

Don't polish, waste of time for the majority of engine on the street and track.

Cam size will dictate max porting, if need be.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I don't understand. Heres some facts of how displacement works;

4.00 X 3.58 = 360
4.030 X 3.58 = 365
4.060 X 3.58 = 370

Now with a stroker crank @ 4.00 in the same bores

4.00 X 4.00 = 402
4.00 X 4.030= 4.08
4.00 X 4.060 = 4.14

In a 340 engine

4.040 X 3.313 = 339.8 AKA 340
4.070 X 3.313 = 344
4.100 X 3.313 = 4.449

Now with a 4 inch stroker crank installed;

4.040 X 4.00 = 4.10
4.07 X 4.00 = 4.16
4.100 X 4.00= 425.5

Did that help?
Click to expand...

on the lest set of numbers the 4.1 im assuming is the max bore a 340 will take? i had no idea you could get that many cubes out of a 340, sounds awesome to me!

my older brother has a 64 cuda with a built 340, i have a 64 cuda with a mild 360. ill talk him into stroking his when i stroke my 360 and just do the street test! thanks for the numbers
 
rumblefish360 said:
273,318.340 cranks all have the same stroke.

Don't polish, waste of time for the majority of engine on the street and track.

Cam size will dictate max porting, if need be.
Click to expand...



good to know, i had this motor built probably 4 years ago so im foggy on the details but the numbers i remember about my cam is 484 and 284. which i know is the lift and the duration and i just mildly understand what those numbers mean. what is your expert opinion on that cam with a mild built 360, with the j heads rebuilt, airgap manifold and demon carb, with headers and hydraulic valve train. sound like a decent match? id like to upgrade to a solid lifter roller cam and lifter set up some day probably when i do the stroker but for now im wondering if that cam is about right. although this is a street car, its my race car so im always looking for improvements that i can afford.
 
Blowdart, don't waste your money on a solid roller unless you're gonna get heads that can really use them. A good flat tappet cam will open the valves very quickly. Put a Clay Smith solid flat tappet cam and lifters in it with some hughes engines roller rockers and manton pushrods. You will still need to change springs and setup the heads and possibly your piston valve reliefs for this. I'm talking somewhere around .530" lift/290 degrees adv duration.

You can call George at Clay Smith cams and talk to him personally. He's been doing this for a long time, and he can tell you what cam will be best for ya.
(714) 523-0530
 
mopar340dave said:
Blowdart, don't waste your money on a solid roller unless you're gonna get heads that can really use them. A good flat tappet cam will open the valves very quickly. Put a Clay Smith solid flat tappet cam and lifters in it with some hughes engines roller rockers and manton pushrods. You will still need to change springs and setup the heads and possibly your piston valve reliefs for this. I'm talking somewhere around .530" lift/290 degrees adv duration.

You can call George at Clay Smith cams and talk to him personally. He's been doing this for a long time, and he can tell you what cam will be best for ya.
(714) 523-0530
Click to expand...

Input appreciated. Will roll a dex that number for when I stroke the 360 thanks.
 
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