Interest in Performance Parts for slants?

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I somehow completely missed that thread. Dunno how that happened.

Is that Lancer in Texas?

Is it for sale?

no its about 20 mins from me... sadly the guy who bought it, bought it for the 289/C6/9" in it... he said i can have it when he yanks everything out... been a yr now and its just sitting... call him every month lol...
 
very true but with the exh on the passenger side there is a dizzy, wires and oil filter dead smack where tubes would normally go... now you could run them fender exit style

Spark plugs are generally in the center of the combustion chamber of a three valve overhead cam style head and if you're going to modernize the head on a slant, you might as well go to sequential port fuel injection and a DIS type ignition.
After all this, even if you were to keep enough stock pieces to retain the original oil pump/distributor drive, remote mounting the oil filter would be a piece of cake.
Most likely, if you're going to the trouble and expense of modernizing the engine with a multi-valve overhead cam head, you're probably going to ditch the original cam blank, modify the oil galleries and run a dry sump anyway!
 
Spark plugs are generally in the center of the combustion chamber of a three valve overhead cam style head and if you're going to modernize the head on a slant, you might as well go to sequential port fuel injection and a DIS type ignition.
After all this, even if you were to keep enough stock pieces to retain the original oil pump drive, remote mounting the oil filter would be a piece of cake.
Most likely, if you're going to the trouble and expense of modernizing the engine with a multi-valve overhead cam head, you're probably going to ditch the original cam blank, modify the oil galleries and run a dry sump anyway!

your right... i was just thinking of a stock head... lol:newb:
 
no its about 20 mins from me... sadly the guy who bought it, bought it for the 289/C6/9" in it... he said i can have it when he yanks everything out... been a yr now and its just sitting... call him every month lol...

Well, don't let that one get away; it's the perfect raw material for what you want to do...
 
well for starters I think I'll address parts for street 6's before i get too crazy

Well, I don't know what happened to my first post about this; it just disappeared, but here goes again:

Nobody in the aftermarket makes the item I'm about to suggest. I think it would be an easy-to-manufacture part that might sell a few.

Here's the deal:

The stock exhaust manifold for slant 6's has always been prone to cracking. Weld on it, and the chances that it might crack are increased.

To add a turbo to a slant 6, you can either build a header (not really necessary, except for racing applications) OR attach a turbo to the stock exhaust manifold. There is a method that is easy, and doesn't require any welding on the manifold.

Just get a small, short-radius piece of L-shaped 2.5"-diameter exhaust tubing and weld a flange that will bolt to the exhaust manifold exit on one end, and weld a turbo mounting flange on the other end, and you have solved two problems at once; mounting the turbo without welding on the manifold, and correctly orienting the scroll at the same time.

I would pay $75.00 for such a piece, and I'm of the opinion that there are several others who would, too. A stainless steel version could be sold for a little more.

Just my 2-cents....
 
how do you think a manifold set up for EFI would sell?

It needs to be different enough from a modified carburetor manifold to capture the attention of the prospective buyer. An equal length runner, fabricated tube manifold (not unlike the Ford Motorsport version of the 93 Cobra manifold) with 16" to 18" runners rolled back over themselves and into a large plenum, barrel style, might do the trick.
Such a manifold would occupy roughly the same real-estate as the former intake, carburetor, and air cleaner. It should clear the master cylinder and stock hood easily. Orient the throttle body mounting flange on the right side of the plenum to shoot the air intake tube over the rocker cover and into the space over the right inner fender. Making it out of steel tube instead of aluminum would possibly save time and money, would be very nearly as light, and the mixture going through it couldn't care (the original Pontiac fuel injection of 1957 used just a manifold). Add into the mix a matching fuel rail with a mount for a fuel pressure regulator and you've got a winner.
As has been stated here many times, those in the slant six crowd are noted for being cheap screws. That said, I personally have observed what happens to some of them when exposed to an aluminum IR manifold and set of three matching DCOE Webers, so I would guess if you can come up with something that captures their imagination and keep the price down near other more conventional offerings, you might just have a winner.
 
Well, I don't know what happened to my first post about this; it just disappeared, but here goes again:

Nobody in the aftermarket makes the item I'm about to suggest. I think it would be an easy-to-manufacture part that might sell a few.

Here's the deal:

The stock exhaust manifold for slant 6's has always been prone to cracking. Weld on it, and the chances that it might crack are increased.

To add a turbo to a slant 6, you can either build a header (not really necessary, except for racing applications) OR attach a turbo to the stock exhaust manifold. There is a method that is easy, and doesn't require any welding on the manifold.

Just get a small, short-radius piece of L-shaped 2.5"-diameter exhaust tubing and weld a flange that will bolt to the exhaust manifold exit on one end, and weld a turbo mounting flange on the other end, and you have solved two problems at once; mounting the turbo without welding on the manifold, and correctly orienting the scroll at the same time.

I would pay $75.00 for such a piece, and I'm of the opinion that there are several others who would, too. A stainless steel version could be sold for a little more.

Just my 2-cents....


Additionally, there are three- and four-bolt turbocharger mounting flanges, and it might be to the manufacturer's advantage to offer both.
 
Well, I don't know what happened to my first post about this; it just disappeared, but here goes again:

Nobody in the aftermarket makes the item I'm about to suggest. I think it would be an easy-to-manufacture part that might sell a few.

Here's the deal:

The stock exhaust manifold for slant 6's has always been prone to cracking. Weld on it, and the chances that it might crack are increased.

To add a turbo to a slant 6, you can either build a header (not really necessary, except for racing applications) OR attach a turbo to the stock exhaust manifold. There is a method that is easy, and doesn't require any welding on the manifold.

Just get a small, short-radius piece of L-shaped 2.5"-diameter exhaust tubing and weld a flange that will bolt to the exhaust manifold exit on one end, and weld a turbo mounting flange on the other end, and you have solved two problems at once; mounting the turbo without welding on the manifold, and correctly orienting the scroll at the same time.

I would pay $75.00 for such a piece, and I'm of the opinion that there are several others who would, too. A stainless steel version could be sold for a little more.

Just my 2-cents....

I agree with bill here,this would be a relatively simple way to get your foot in the door and provide something that no one else has at the moment.
 
Well, I don't know what happened to my first post about this; it just disappeared, but here goes again:

Nobody in the aftermarket makes the item I'm about to suggest. I think it would be an easy-to-manufacture part that might sell a few.

Here's the deal:

The stock exhaust manifold for slant 6's has always been prone to cracking. Weld on it, and the chances that it might crack are increased.

To add a turbo to a slant 6, you can either build a header (not really necessary, except for racing applications) OR attach a turbo to the stock exhaust manifold. There is a method that is easy, and doesn't require any welding on the manifold.

Just get a small, short-radius piece of L-shaped 2.5"-diameter exhaust tubing and weld a flange that will bolt to the exhaust manifold exit on one end, and weld a turbo mounting flange on the other end, and you have solved two problems at once; mounting the turbo without welding on the manifold, and correctly orienting the scroll at the same time.

I would pay $75.00 for such a piece, and I'm of the opinion that there are several others who would, too. A stainless steel version could be sold for a little more.

Just my 2-cents....


Bill that's a wonderful idea I had planned on doing something like this myself I've got some plans for fab up a couple different styles with different mounting flanges but I have far to much on my plate
I'm hoping to have the 1.6 rockers done this week also got to find sometime to finish my turbo header
I'm also tinkering around with a wedged shape closed combustion chamber head I'm in the process of making my jigs to try and attempt something like this in a reasonable manner
Then one day ill get the TOAD ready
Stay tuned
Aaron
 
Bill that's a wonderful idea I had planned on doing something like this myself I've got some plans for fab up a couple different styles with different mounting flanges but I have far to much on my plate
I'm hoping to have the 1.6 rockers done this week also got to find sometime to finish my turbo header
I'm also tinkering around with a wedged shape closed combustion chamber head I'm in the process of making my jigs to try and attempt something like this in a reasonable manner
Then one day ill get the TOAD ready
Stay tuned
Aaron

Thanks for the kind words, Aaron!

That's not really MY idea; I think I heard about it from FABO member PISHTA, as he has a low-budget turbo /6 about to hit the road (if it hasn't already.) He used a 90-degree bent piece of 2.5" tubing to mount his turbo, I believe.

Our 1.6:1 rockers are still at the weld shop; he's been having time-consuming problems of his own with his CNC machines. Burned-out motors, etc... I guess we'll get 'em when we get 'em.

We have been making progress on the car body, itself; home from the paint shop and gettting all the chrome put back on it. Starting to look like a real car, again... LOL! Got the windshield and back glass in it now...

Next up is the (complete) fuel system, and some wiring (a lot.)

Then, maybe it will be ready to take to the strip, once it warms up.

C'mon Springtime!!!:cheers:

Stay tuned, II...
 
While I'm as strong a proponent of hairdryers as anyone out there, I'm always amazed how Mr. Dedman can co-opt virtually any thread into his own!
 
While I'm as strong a proponent of hairdryers as anyone out there, I'm always amazed how Mr. Dedman can co-opt virtually any thread into his own!


This was the original poster's request: "Just looking for ideas/requests/complaints on current products and seeing if it'd be worth designing/building parts for. Gimme your $.02!!!!"

Is that not what I did?

Explain to me, if you can, how that translates to "co-opt virtually any thread into his own."

He asked for suggestions and I responded with one (1).

I'm listening...
 
Well, I don't know what happened to my first post about this; it just disappeared, but here goes again:

Nobody in the aftermarket makes the item I'm about to suggest. I think it would be an easy-to-manufacture part that might sell a few.

Here's the deal:

The stock exhaust manifold for slant 6's has always been prone to cracking. Weld on it, and the chances that it might crack are increased.

To add a turbo to a slant 6, you can either build a header (not really necessary, except for racing applications) OR attach a turbo to the stock exhaust manifold. There is a method that is easy, and doesn't require any welding on the manifold.

Just get a small, short-radius piece of L-shaped 2.5"-diameter exhaust tubing and weld a flange that will bolt to the exhaust manifold exit on one end, and weld a turbo mounting flange on the other end, and you have solved two problems at once; mounting the turbo without welding on the manifold, and correctly orienting the scroll at the same time.

I would pay $75.00 for such a piece, and I'm of the opinion that there are several others who would, too. A stainless steel version could be sold for a little more.

Just my 2-cents....


Uh, like this?
DSC00028.JPG


I think I still have the cut drawings somewhere...
 
Uh, like this?
DSC00028.JPG


I think I still have the cut drawings somewhere...

That is not exactly the configuration I had in mind, but that's probably better than what I envisioned.

Looks awesome, Pishta.... have you driven it yet?
 
pretty close, Ill you-tube the first start up...still gotta plumb the tank. What were you envisioning? Mind you I have the narrow engine compartment and the steering box is right behind that shock tower. If you use a Ford Diesel Turbo, they spool the other direction so theoretically you could mount it right off the manifold and itll curl up like a 6 but youll run out of room unless you run a rack or its in a truck.
 
hey Bill, have a pic of that out of the car? may be Sobieck Performance Technology PN00001 lol
 
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