left over parts 360 build

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I'd have run the old head gaskets too to prove a point. Mix and match oil pump, that's awesome.
 
skrews said:
So after 12 years of hotroddin/racing my junk and working at an engine shop I've amassed quite a collection of used/pulled off engine parts. Thought to myself why not build a motor with all this stuff thats why we save it right. So the plan became this, put together an engine with as much used, cast off, and factory stuff for as cheap as possible . I had a bunch of 360 cores so I plucked out the most used up one I had (already .030 over) not wanting to use a good one on a motor that was going to be built this cheap. Went through my crank collection and had a nice one out of a Magnum. Used the rods from the Magnum motor too, ground the balance pads off, polished the beams, resized with ARP bolts I pulled out of set rods that were improperly resized. Bought a set of Sealed Power hyperutectic 4 valve relief flat top pistons with moly ring set for $130 off Ebay. Also got the bearings and gaskets there for cheap too. Used a set of 596 heads with 1.88 MP valves I had on the shelf and 1.6 Milodon valves scored off Craigs list. Pretty good port job yielding 235/180 CFM @28" (192/131 CFM stock). Told myself I wasn't going to get carried away on the heads for this thing, but that didn't happen. Assembled them with some Comp 926 single springs and 10 degree locks/retainers I pulled off my worn out 340. Shaved them 50 thou. got to down to 57cc. The block got the full treatment sonic tested for good thickness, square decked, mains line honed, honed with deckplate. Weight matched the internals and balanced the crank with an LA 360 damper and B&M flexplate. Screwed the short block together with an OEM windage tray from the parts pile, a low mile Magnum oil pump, and a $45 Ebay oil pan. Used a .484 Purple Shaft cam and double roller timing chain I ran in my 340 for a season years ago. Just to satisfy my curiosity I mapped out the specs on that cam. Mopar says 284 advertised duration, 241 @.050, .484 lift. Wrong, its actually 294 adv., 238 @.050, .480 lift and 143 @.200. Thats a slow lobe profile, not sayin its a bad cam but it aint what Mopar says it is, and it aint what a lot of guys think it is when it comes to agressiveness I remeasured it 3 times to be sure. Compression worked out to 9.7 with my heavily cut heads and my .050 down the hole 8.5 comp. pistons. Capped it off with a spread bore iron 360 intake with the EGR junk plugged, the carb pad opened up to match a square bore adapter, and port matched ( had to slot the holes a ways ). Used a set of heavy duty stamped MP rockers and replacement pushrods out of my buddies blown up 360. Old M/T valvecovers from the swap meet. In to this thing for about $500.
On to the dyno with 1.75 headers and a 750 doublepumper on a 2" tapered spacer
428 HP @ 5700
449 TQ @ 4300
With an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap everything else the same
442 HP @ 6000
460 TQ @ 4700

In my 3350 lbs Duster it runs 7.5 at 89 1/8 mile and 11.8 at 112 1/4 mile
8" 4500 stall converter 904, 4.56 gear, 28" slick 1.57 60 ft. time
I figured that this thing would only hit about 375 hp and run mid 12s :toothy8:
[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]Zl2jA6zHDb4[/MEDIA]"]360 on the Dyno - YouTube[/ame]
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I like everything about this except the 3350 pound weight. What year Duster is this. What’s it weight now. Nice job by the way in showing how simple it can be.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I like everything about this except the 3350 pound weight. What year Duster is this. What’s it weight now. Nice job by the way in showing how simple it can be.
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Car is a 1972, 3300ish race weight now. I need to weight it as I haven't done that in a while.
 
skrews said:
Car is a 1972, 3300ish race weight now. I need to weight it as I haven't done that in a while.
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I love builds like this and showing guys how easy it can be. Probably the only things I would shy away from is by time you do up a set of stock heads you aren’t that far away from better flowing aluminum heads and Scat I beem rods are a nice upgrade too and are pretty budget minded. Years ago rods were our biggest issue but 40 years ago we did our learning from books and they all promoted high rpm. I don’t get or ask for a lot or pricing help over the years but I have made a few friends in the business that treat me very well so most of the factory parts have ended up on my scrap pile (rods, pistons, cams, etc)
 
pittsburghracer said:
I love builds like this and showing guys how easy it can be. Probably the only things I would shy away from is by time you do up a set of stock heads you aren’t that far away from better flowing aluminum heads and Scat I beem rods are a nice upgrade too and are pretty budget minded. Years ago rods were our biggest issue but 40 years ago we did our learning from books and they all promoted high rpm. I don’t get or ask for a lot or pricing help over the years but I have made a few friends in the business that treat me very well so most of the factory parts have ended up on my scrap pile (rods, pistons, cams, etc)
Click to expand...

Agree with above.
I do all my own head work, guides, valve job, porting, surfacing, ect so cost isn't a big deal for me. For the average joe a set of aftermarket heads is the wise move unless you're a gluten for punishment. Same with the rods, I had all the parts and ability to rework the stockers, but for the average guy a set of SCAT I beams is the wise move.
 
Would love to freshen this thing up as its last leak down showed 15-20% leakage (past the rings) in most cylinders, and the cranking compression was around 195. There was 1 cylinder that for what ever reason was 8% leakage and 210 cranking WTF. If the whole motor was like that 1 miracle cylinder I bet this thing would be a tenth or better quicker. Thats what you get when you put used rings in piss poor cylinders.
 
Pic of con rod in this motor. Heavily worked/lightened Magnum forging. ARP bolts from a set of rods that were too far out of whack to save.

img_03481_zps772ed775-jpg.jpg
 
I have a friend that blew his race motor and did the same thing with his Chevelle (Yes a Chevy friend lol) somehow pickup 1/10 second qtr. mile. Ran it the rest of the season too. Whip it together haphazardly not expecting much. Sometimes I guess you just get lucky.
 
Cripes Skrews, that is truly stunning!
I hadn't read this thread before today and was thinking back over thirty years of 'trying to run a TEN'!
Started back in the mid 80's with various unsuitable Mopars lol.
Ended up buying the Ex 'Cooky's Dart' a UK assembled 8 second beasty!
Built for UK Street Car Challenge in the early 90's and was totally awesome indeed.
8.2 @ 180 on street tyres with pump gas.
 
So just by luck I managed to purchase the Cooky Dart in the late 90's for my 'trip into the TENS'.
Easy you may think, but I could only afford it as a roller.
The 400(547ci) 900hp motor was gone, destroyed from its duties here and in the USofA.
So we took the 440 out of a friends car that ran 11's and rebuilt it for the job.
Unfortunately the Comp cam we fitted was defective and it destroyed the engine before we got to the track.
So I sold my 383 70 Cuda and bought a 440 iron motor out of a 9 second Dart.
Well it never ran nines but it sure was fun running mid TENS at 130.

So the point of this story is, buy a Duster get a trash 360 engine and run mid tens for less than $1000 bucks lol.
Think it cost me $10,000+ twenty years ago DOH...:drama:

So well done to you and many others that run S/B's into the tens (on a strict budget)
Limey John
 
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