lower control arm bushing problems

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hidden critters
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Hi
You may want to check for cracks around the k-member where the control arm bolts in. This is common and send alignment out-a-whack. The welds crack in this area.
 
Hi
You may want to check for cracks around the k-member where the control arm bolts in. This is common and send alignment out-a-whack. The welds crack in this area.

cleaned them up and checked the welds. Look good. Thanks for the advice.
 
The ball joints are NOT on the wrong side. The spindles have been swapped to put the calipers to the rear. There is nothing wrong with this and allows better clearance for a sway bar.
 
The ball joints are NOT on the wrong side. The spindles have been swapped to put the calipers to the rear. There is nothing wrong with this and allows better clearance for a sway bar.

Xcatly. Just did a 9" drum to 73/ 4 disc swap and put mine intentionally to the rear.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=248634

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Also read the shop manual referring to your disk brakes. On the ones as I have, you are supposed to "hammer form" the disc pad ears on the outside set to fit tight to the caliper, and not move around and rattle.

Go to post no 20 on this page

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
 
The ball joints are NOT on the wrong side. The spindles have been swapped to put the calipers to the rear. There is nothing wrong with this and allows better clearance for a sway bar.

I was wondering this myself...Oldkimmer explained it to me tonight over coffee...LOL For swaybar clearance

Good advice Mark with checking the welds....good thread!
 
Thanks for clearing up the ball joint/spindle issue. I dont have a sway bar. Does it make a difference as far as braking is concerned?
 
Also the napa lca bushings have a lifetime warranty. My cheap:bootysha: is going to be getting good and swapping them out. (work at a shop so alignment wont cost me anything)
 
Makes no difference in braking. I still wouldn't take free replacement bushings if they are not made on this continent...
 
I actually ordered a set from 3 different parts stores. 2 moog and the napa chassis. We'll see if any say MADE IN USA
 
first pair arrived from oreilly's moog k791's sais made in mexico on the box.
 
Beware of brake hose length when moving calipers. The original 73 a-body correct hose will be too short. It won't actually LOOK too short initially. It's when you jack the car up and steer all the way to one side that can damage the hose.
 
this worked great for me. read from other post

airgrabber;1760822]Put the washer inside the shell of the LCA bushing outer housing. Then take an air chisel and fold over the outer edges of the lca bushing shell (the lip that keeps the bushing from pressing all the way thru the lca) in towards the center of the shell, thereby capturing the the washer. Then you can press it out, and you don't ruin the washer by welding on it.
 
Moog...........and lot'sa other stuff "aint wut it uszed ta be" unless you find NOS on ebay, etc
 
Nobody noticed what it means that his front end settled lower after the lower bushing sheared. To me that verifies that the LCA bolt was tightened when the front suspension was hanging, which is wrong (common mistake). The rubber bushing was then taking load that the T-bar should. Don't blame the NAPA part. BTW, there is a sticky here on changing the bushings.

Don't feel bad. "Master of Mopar" Mark Worman said on his show that he always thought the LCA bolt pivoted in the hole as you drove. I hope he hasn't been greasing those bolts on the $100K cars he has been restoring.
 
Moog...........and lot'sa other stuff "aint wut it uszed ta be" unless you find NOS on ebay, etc

Aint that the truth

In 2010 I installed new Ball Joints & Tie-Rods on my '74 Duster, all Moog parts

5 to 6 months later, there was no rubber left on those Ball Joints & Tie-Rods, the seals completely fell apart within a couple months. Literally, what was left of those Boots/Seals crumbled in your hand.
 
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