LSx Valiant Build. Take a look inside...

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loganscuda said:
I have some pics on the 8.8 thread I have read cars running up to 1200 rwhp on them. Not as strong as Dana. I cut the driver side tube down 2 3/4 inches but have heard I could have just dropped it in pretty much. Get a shorter passenger axle is you cut it.
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1200 is more than I need. Did you use an explorer rear? Any trouble realigning the outer you cut off?
 
Oh P.S.
I am not a MoPar or no car guy. American V8 muscle is what I like.
But you know that because you read All of MY posts.
 
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I did use Explorer. Didn't have issues
 
I didn't even use a housing jig. Made my own. Crude but worked. Search 8.8 after I did mine someone said you don't have to cut it. That almost 3 inches was nice to have though. My 17X9s fit in there well I had to get 1/2 inch spacers to move the wheels out with 275/40 s on it. They looked kinda funny sitting tucked in. Now I can put 17x10s and put bigger meat on the back. I also used offset shackles and moved springs in and got perches for the 8.8 at 4wheelparts. Used my 83/4 plates.
 
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Thanks! Was wondering about a jig. I think I'd just use the explorer discs. Gonna upgrade the front anyway. Very informatively stuff. So you only had to shorten one side?
 
I used the discs bought slotted rotors for it on rockauto. I went to junkyard pulled rear end pulled passenger axle out of another car pulled long axle out of the rear I took out pulled the long axle out threw on ground slid short axle in so I wouldn't have to buy another axle. You can also get the housing cover off the newer explorer with the IRS and shave the ears off and it bolts right up to it. It looks a lot better it's aluminum and has a drain and fill plug and fins for better cooling.
 
I used my driveshaft with a I joint that went from mopar to the Ford. I got it at autozone. Spicer makes a better one. I'll look for part #.
 
If you have a slant 6 car the QA1 kmember is nice but you will have to change you pitman arm and center link and a few other steering components. I tried it at first and ran into those issues and got the alterkation.
 
My 67's a 318/904 car. That explorer info is great. Should handle the LS fine. Plus lighter and cheaper than the Dana 60. You changed the flanged yoke on the ford or used it? I didn't know the explorer rear had 1 long axle and tube. Never did one.
 
I used the whole 8.8 just used a ujoint that went from driveshaft that was set up for 8 3/4. The driver side axle is a little over 2 3/4 longer than the passenger side. the driveline on Explorer is offset.
 
So by shortening the long side I recenter the diff and the I joint makes up for the difference in size then rock auto to rebuild my brakes. Did you cut the tube on a table saw or with a pipe cutter for alignment?
 
There is tons of info on the 8.8 you can get rid of the c clips and put on 9" axle ends and bearings for even stronger axle Support. Even upgrade to 6 piston calipers and bigger rotors. Look up 8.8 swaps on the web plenty of how to and pictures.
 
loganscuda said:
There is tons of info on the 8.8 you can get rid of the c clips and put on 9" axle ends and bearings for even stronger axle Support. Even upgrade to 6 piston calipers and bigger rotors. Look up 8.8 swaps on the web plenty of how to and pictures.
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Thanks!
 
The only problem I had when I set it up I went tach the perches in place and it must have slipped down a bit and got my pinion angle off 2 degrees. Fixed that with pinion shims. GOOD LUCK YOU WILL BE HAPPY. MONEY SAVED IS MONEY EARNED
 
loganscuda said:
Where is the cost savings. In LS3 over GIII. Is it motor and trans and tuning. Can it be done on stock k member. Seems like most mods are the same. Fuel delivery, headers, kmember. Not putting it down at all but is the difference that big. It's been several years since I did my swap. I know there is a lot more out there for it now and a lot more in the junk yard.
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I can pick up a Junkyard LS in good condition and including the harness for $250 -500, my brothers was a prime example(6.0 from a Yukon for 250) versus cheapest hemi I've found was $800 and in need of a complete overhaul(good running is usually upwards of $1800-2500, wiring harnesses are much cheaper to purchase/modify for the LS swaps than with GEN III($1100 for a hotwire harness is). I can get an already refreshed turbo 350 for less than half what it will cost me to get my 904 rebuilt or pickup a freshened up 727 to bolt to the GIII. Headers for the GIII, $700 from TTI or can be had new for as cheap as 450 for s10 mid length. LS swap information is much more readily available and people are more willing to share the info on the swap. I literally asked a question to two people, and 30 minutes later I had an entire list of just about everything I would need for the LS swap, everyone who has done the GEN III swap seems more standoffish about sharing too many details or a shopping list. So you spend 6 months or longer digging through threads and asking 50 people for help info, and trying to piece it all together on what you need for the GEN III swap. Use the same k-member and mounts I was going to use for the GIII swap. I can get the junkyard 8.8 for maybe a couple hundred have it shortened and ready to go for what it will cost me just for the dang pumpkin for a 8 3/4. But I can literally save a few thousand dollars just on the engine/harness/trans/rear alone. I can relate this LS vs GIII to when I stepped up from a 1991 Eclipse GSX to a 2003 Lancer Evolution, still a 4g63 motor powering both cars, generally the same design as far as drivetrain goes, but the mere fact it was for the newer Evolution meant there was like a EVOTAX you had to pay for all the parts. Most of the time double or triple what it cost for the DSM 4g63. I understand the purist mentality, but with the way most of the MOPAR world seems to be with sharing info on the GIII, we're way behind the LS power curve(pun intended) in that regard. Just my 2 cents and based off of what I've found near me/available to me. Everyone's story will differ slightly as always.
 
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loganscuda said:
If you have a slant 6 car the QA1 kmember is nice but you will have to change you pitman arm and center link and a few other steering components. I tried it at first and ran into those issues and got the alterkation.
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I currently have a slant 6 car. Could you PM a list of those "other parts"? I already have the QA1 tubular lower control arms, Hotchkis shocks/swaybar/uca/steering rods/strut rods so id rather not ditch all the new suspension I have with less than 500 miles on it.
 
topbrent said:
For readily available sources of the Chevy pattern 904 check www.car-part.com and look up the 1980-1983 AMC Concord, Spirit, with the 2.5L, AT, or the 1982 DJ5L postal jeep as the search parameters.

For example, I turned up 35 of these 904 transmissions using the 1982 Concord/2.5L/AT as the search parameters. The prices ranged from $50-$225 + shipping and core charge.

Try to get the converter and the flexplate. Just like on a TH350/400 you will probably have to use a .400 flexplate spacer as LS engines do not have the extra material on the end of the crankshaft like Gen I&II SB/BB Chevy engines.

The bellhousing is not removable. Here's a picture of the Chevy pattern 904. I posted this picture in the other thread as well.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

View attachment 1715061263
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Thanks, just found one local for $125.
 
loganscuda said:
The only problem I had when I set it up I went tach the perches in place and it must have slipped down a bit and got my pinion angle off 2 degrees. Fixed that with pinion shims. GOOD LUCK YOU WILL BE HAPPY. MONEY SAVED IS MONEY EARNED
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Thanks! I figure money saved is money you earned per hour doing the swap!
 
YoungDart75 said:
I can pick up a Junkyard LS in good condition and including the harness for $250 -500, my brothers was a prime example(6.0 from a Yukon for 250), wiring harnesses are much cheaper to purchase/modify for the LS swaps than with GEN III($1100 for a hotwire harness is). I can get an already refreshed turbo 350 for less than half what it will cost me to get my 904 rebuilt or pickup a freshened up 727 to bolt to the GIII. Headers for the GIII, $700 from TTI or can be had new for as cheap as 450 for s10 mid length. LS swap information is much more readily available and people are more willing to share the info on the swap. I literally asked a question to two people, and 30 minutes later I had an entire list of just about everything I would need for the LS swap, everyone who has done the GEN III swap seems more standoffish about sharing too many details or a shopping list. So you spend 6 months or longer digging through threads and asking 50 people for help info, and trying to piece it all together on what you need for the GEN III swap. Use the same k-member and mounts I was going to use for the GIII swap. I can get the junkyard 8.8 for maybe a couple hundred have it shortened and ready to go for what it will cost me just for the dang pumpkin for a 8 3/4. But I can literally save a few thousand dollars just on the engine/harness/trans/rear alone. I can relate this LS vs GIII to when I stepped up from a 1991 Eclipse GSX to a 2003 Lancer Evolution, still a 4g63 motor powering both cars, generally the same design as far as drivetrain goes, but the mere fact it was for the newer Evolution meant there was like a EVOTAX you had to pay for all the parts. Most of the time double or triple what it cost for the DSM 4g63. I understand the purist mentality, but with the way most of the MOPAR world seems to be with sharing info on the GIII, we're way behind the LS power curve(pun intended) in that regard. Just my 2 cents and based off of what I've found near me/available to me. Everyone's story will differ slightly as always.
Click to expand...
Very we'll said.
 
loganscuda said:
The only problem I had when I set it up I went tach the perches in place and it must have slipped down a bit and got my pinion angle off 2 degrees. Fixed that with pinion shims. GOOD LUCK YOU WILL BE HAPPY. MONEY SAVED IS MONEY EARNED
Click to expand...
Looks like a drum or disc brake mustang one will fit. Still 8.8, some with posi and discs. Differential centered and mopar big bolt pattern axles.
 
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