Making power out of the 318

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I'm starting to feel like this topic has come up before... i was google some 318 stuff and another thread from 2016 came up that was almost exactly like this one but less dicky :)
 
I'm starting to feel like this topic has come up before... i was google some 318 stuff and another thread from 2016 came up that was almost exactly like this one but less dicky :)
Just type 318 and check the "title" box in the search. I think there are 17 pages of threads. Almost all are the same. Why are we wasting our key strokes?
 
360 did come with some of the 340 goodies, but took a lot of time before it became the preferred starting place, 340 were the go to for the longest time.

Look at people with a 273 some give it a pass compared to a 318 cause it has a performance version.
Anytime a kid asks what they should build people start spouting off suggestimg all sorts of machine work. It's like they dont remember being a teenager trying to build a car,pay car insurance,buy condoms(awfully optimistic) and take chicks out on a 25 hour a week paycheck at minimum wage.

The best suggestion for a kid is always whatever you can put together with little to no cash outlay.

Quality machine work isn't free.
 
Just type 318 and check the "title" box in the search. I think there are 17 pages of threads. Almost all are the same. Why are we wasting our key strokes?
cause it's fun to argue... i have decided to make my 318 block a planter.. can fit 8 plants no problem.. gonna snatch up a $2k 340 block so i can finally make power!
 
The only bore size that has a major limiting effect on high ish hp like 400 + hp is 273s 3.625" bore, And yet the bore is still big enough to satisfy the average performance enthusiasts, if they choose to build one.

And a 318 bore is .285" larger than a 273, a 413 has a bore size that is closer in size to a 318 than a 273. 318/360/340 are all in a similar bore size ballpark.
 
People are disappointed at Uncle Tony and just want to keep the discussion going I think. Its a psychological phase like "denial" or something. It ultimately will end in "acceptance" .
 
People are disappointed at Uncle Tony and just want to keep the discussion going I think. Its a psychological phase like "denial" or something. It ultimately will end in "acceptance" .

What does that guy have to do with this discussion? other than to use him to make fun of ****.... where is my cinderblock bridgeport again?
 
Anytime a kid asks what they should build people start spouting off suggestimg all sorts of machine work. It's like they dont remember being a teenager trying to build a car,pay car insurance,buy condoms(awfully optimistic) and take chicks out on a 25 hour a week paycheck at minimum wage.

The best suggestion for a kid is always whatever you can put together with little to no cash outlay.

Quality machine work isn't free.
Tune 4bbl duals small cam gears stall and shift kit, nice basic setup that can do one step at a time. Then the displacement, velocity, cr police come in and confuse the F out of the OP.
 
What does that guy have to do with this discussion? other than to use him to make fun of ****.... where is my cinderblock bridgeport again?
He's got to work him in wherever he can, why he loves 318 threads, he thinks all 318 guy's have drunk at the alter of UTG lol.
 
Tune 4bbl duals small cam gears stall and shift kit, nice basic setup that can do one step at a time. Then the displacement, velocity, cr police come in and confuse the F out of the OP.
4 barrel, duals and a distributor recurve first. Depending on how power hungry you are, that may be all you need. The next step: Depending how radical the cam you install, you will benefit/need a convertor and rear gears. Headers may be on that list as well. Now may be the time to up your compression with pistons or some closed chambered heads. Down the rat hole we go. (like with all builds when you are chasing power)
 
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Most engines got what I think of as free power basically how much power you can get by adding intake, exhaust and cam to a stock long block, basically what's available with stock cr and heads. Most engines have a decent amount in reserve, especially non performance engines cause factory cams are generally extremely mild and even factory mopar performance ones are fairly mild.
 
That's not true. In order to keep the peace all I'm going to say is read on what 318willrun did with the 318.
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Tune 4bbl duals small cam gears stall and shift kit, nice basic setup that can do one step at a time. Then the displacement, velocity, cr police come in and confuse the F out of the OP.
Free horsepower is the best horsepower.
A good tune up goes a long way. Advancing base timing,making sure you are getting W.O.T. Making gaskets out of cereal boxes.etc
These are all the steps that lead to real gains and build skills.

In the free performance category,when I got a free super six intake for my slant when I was a kid I couldn't afford the 2bbl specific lockdown linkage so I modified the 1bbl stuff and added a piece from my erector set.
I split and stacked firewood for a carb.
 
Well... they took this to a monster 3.95 and made 400 with basically a cam and intake.... so this bore thing might pan out :)
yes... but...

this is a classic case of just searching for a power number. i've built this motor-- twice!-- and can confirm that it does knock right on the door of 400hp and it's a good motor, but it requires a bunch of machine work, a keen eye on assembly and prudent parts selection.

if you look at the numbers, the power band is narrow and it's all upstairs. great in a light car with a 4spd or converter and gears. but the shine comes off that new penny because it's tiresome to drive. i wound up taking off the M1 and demon and putting on an airgap and 3310 (on the 4spd car), the other motor i didn't even consider a single plane when i put it together and went even smaller with the carb.

now when you compare that to a boneyard 360 that will basically make 400 falling out of bed, things rapidly come into focus in the "value for money" department.
 
yes... but...

this is a classic case of just searching for a power number. i've built this motor-- twice!-- and can confirm that it does knock right on the door of 400hp and it's a good motor, but it requires a bunch of machine work, a keen eye on assembly and prudent parts selection.

if you look at the numbers, the power band is narrow and it's all upstairs. great in a light car with a 4spd or converter and gears. but the shine comes off that new penny because it's tiresome to drive. i wound up taking off the M1 and demon and putting on an airgap and 3310 (on the 4spd car), the other motor i didn't even consider a single plane when i put it together and went even smaller with the carb.

now when you compare that to a boneyard 360 that will basically make 400 falling out of bed, things rapidly come into focus in the "value for money" department.
Red x time. I've had my share of gas sucking pigs of 360s.... That could barely get out of their own way.... These long gone, back in the 80s ...
 
Red x time. I've had my share of gas sucking pigs of 360s.... That could barely get out of their own way.... These long gone, back in the 80s ...
feel free to disagree, and that's fine. but we're not discussing gas mileage or really, stock motors for that matter. i too am a proponent of the mighty 318 and don't deny the absolutely putrid performance of a stock late 70's 360.
 
When talking gas mileage are we talking equal performing cars, like 400 hp 360 vs 400 hp 318,
I highly doubt there be much of a mileage difference. Plus for a play toy, You'd have to put crazy mileage on a year, to really matter.
 
Here comes Dan with a Torquer in his hand , he's a one carb man and he's off to the rodeo...
 
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No wonder teenagers give up and put fart pipes on hondas instead of building musclecars.

Then there is the price of muscle cars and almost muscle cars that need a **** ton of work that min. wage won’t cover. Enter in the new hot rods that are actually affordable and have the ability to get double the mileage.

The kids don’t even care if there as fast as the old iron, they just care there faster than there friends **** box.

Sounds exactly like how it was when I was coming up. Only I bought Dusters, Cúda’s Impalas, Poncho LeMans & Tempests, Olds Cutlass’s… etc….

They were all loooossssssrs against the guys that had knowledge and a few years experience and money behind them but we did t care. As long as my **** bills was faster than anyone else’s in my 12th year of schooling and a few years after, that’s all that mattered.

Back in the early 80’s, I started with a $600 rot box ‘73-4spd Cúda, then a $700 Duster, A pricey but sweet ‘79 El Camino,, then a free ‘74 Duster, (did work for the owner around his house to “Earn” the car he could t stand.) a ‘73 LeMans for a amazing price of a case of beer, a ‘74 Tempest free for the asking,

Young kids don’t make the money required for a muscle car and simply go to the cheapest option that’s easy to get… a Honda or Toyota or Nissan, or Hyundai or whatever the hell falls in that lab cheap as ****. Then they do the same crap we did in modifying the cars. Again, as long as they’re faster than their body **** box, they don’t give a crap.

They are simply priced out of the muscle car market. So they use the next best thing.
 
Only I wouldn't take a Honda Toyota Kia or Nissan or Hyundai, even if for free and insurance was free and so was gas and maintenance.
 
Only I wouldn't take a Honda Toyota Kia or Nissan or Hyundai, even if for free and insurance was free and so was gas and maintenance.
Are you a kid trying to get to work via a car because it’s pretty far away and walking that distance is not a reasonable option?

If not, then your reply is stupid and just chest beating while flag waving a standard not realistically obtainable on bullshit morels.

I think truly any parent that would cater to there kid a car would not be getting them a muscle car because of there kids standards and any kid that took that stance is ether a spoiled little **** or mentally wacked out. I’m not beating my chest when I say I walked over 3 miles to my minimum paying job until I could afford car insurance. If a kid can’t do that and the parent hands him a car and insurance, IMO, it’s up to the kid to keep it all going. It’s all on there dime.

This I did for my kids and they kept it going until they could afford their own car. They also didn’t sell there given car for something else much less an old and unknown reliable muscle car.

That’s because there responsible & know a good thing when they have it. They don’t give in to flights of fancy nor do they have ridiculous “I must have…..” standards. Like the one you present.

If you were of driving age and given any well working car you’d be happy and grateful you got it. Anything else I’d consider a lie.
 
Only I wouldn't take a Honda Toyota Kia or Nissan or Hyundai, even if for free and insurance was free and so was gas and maintenance.
because cutting off your nose to spite your face is always the best course of action.
 
I've had two Honda's 80's CRX and Prelude they were fun little cars.
 
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