Massive oil leaks.

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Chuckbizkits said:
Saw the one that was deleted. It was not nice. But Mad Dart's post was before Wazzoo64's deleted post. It was a tad insulting. Now he wants to pay for the entire cost of his car if it wasn't the builder's fault and drag race him. Sheesh!
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Chuckbizkits; WTF?! It's been a couple of hours and you expect this cat to do a full blown analysis? My guess is he's got a job and he's working. Why be so hurtful and not helpful? Now you're going to pay him the full cost of his car if it's not the builder's fault? Why not just drag race him to settle this? Oh, you already went down that path.
Here's my guess: Too much crankcase pressure blew out the silicone seal on the the valley tray that the builder installed. Not going to pay for his entire car if I'm wrong but worth checking out.
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Look, it is not Kosher to bash an engine builder on an open forum without knowing exactly what went wrong and whose fault it was and even then the builder should be given the chance to make it right if it was intact his fault. If it was found to be builder error and he didn't annieee up and make it right then by all means bash the living baaaageeebers out of the guy! I am all for it!

If someone can not answer direct questions then it gets everyone trying to help a little pissy is all. I did not wish anything bad on him and I said I would like to see him fix his car and I hoped it was an easy fix at that.

Wazooo64 and I are cool. I understand he was heated as anyone going through this would be including myself. So no harm no foul. :D

You got me going again though.......bring your car out and Ill drag its *** too! haaaaaaa
 
airwoofer said:
I have a beer that that guy will not show up for a run against Mad Dart even if he internets that he will, like he already did.
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I was contacted by Wazoo64 , he in fact is up for the challenge and we do not live too far from each other. He said he needs 30 Days to get ready which is cool with me. I would love to meet up and getrrrr dunn for sure. Most all of my best friends in life started out with an argument or a full out brawl and we became very good friends afterward. Maybe this is no different here.
 
Mad Dart said:
I was contacted by Wazoo64 , he in fact is up for the challenge and we do not live too far from each other. He said he needs 30 Days to get ready which is cool with me. I would love to meet up and getrrrr dunn for sure. Most all of my best friends in life started out with an argument or a full out brawl and we became very good friends afterward. Maybe this is no different here.
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And here's the audio of that meeting

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNC-BtsLFdQ"]ZZ Top Manic Mechanic - YouTube[/ame]
 
I'm fairly certain that's not a factory valley pan. IIRC the heads require a valley block off plate - which would'nt need the washers or reinforcements. And yes - it's sealed with silicone.


fratzog lover said:
Going from a street build to a race build, at what point does one have to start to worry about valley pan buldge? 500+ hp? Is it at a certain level of cam lift or duration?
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You should never have to worry about the valley pans bulging up. If you do it's because the rings or gaskets are not sealing the combustion pressure. It's not related to oil pressure, horsepower, camshaft, weather, fuel, boost, or anything else. If the head gaskets seal, and the rings seal, the pressure stays where it's supposed to.
 
While I believe your problems could very well have been caused by improper crankcase ventilation, I don't agree that you MUST run a PCV valve. Positive Crankcase Ventilation valves came about on vehicles to reduce emissions. I've personally vented plenty of engines through both valve covers via breather caps, and so has just about everyone I've known... With zero issues. You've definitely got an issue, but I don't for a second believe it's because there is no PCV system in place.
 
Mad Dart said:
I was contacted by Wazoo64 , he in fact is up for the challenge and we do not live too far from each other. He said he needs 30 Days to get ready which is cool with me. I would love to meet up and getrrrr dunn for sure. Most all of my best friends in life started out with an argument or a full out brawl and we became very good friends afterward. Maybe this is no different here.
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If he is a no show I will line up with you for a grand. We live close to each other and can work out the details. My car is a NA small block. Let's lock it in.
 
The Grouch said:
If he is a no show I will line up with you for a grand. We live close to each other and can work out the details. My car is a NA small block. Let's lock it in.
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Lets see, 2600 lb race car with 900 HP Small block..... Hmmm :wack:

Just come over to the house and Ill give you the Grand, it will save me the trip out there and the embarrassment! Lol
 
Lemmie get my wife's Escape out there. I'll mop the road with all yall badasses. It's even 4WD. Yall are through now.
 
Mad Dart said:
Lets see, 2600 lb race car with 900 HP Small block..... Hmmm :wack:

Just come over to the house and Ill give you the Grand, it will save me the trip out there and the embarrassment! Lol
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The car is heavier that that. Come on Luis. And 900 hp. Pffft I wish.
 
I mean it yall. Don't force my hand on this. lol I'll bring the Troy Bilt and the blue bottle. Yall can hang it up then.
 
Does it look like the rear main area? If you are running a stock style rear main cap. And a thin stock style pan. And he used the stock oil pan bolts. The 2 threaded holes in a stock main seal cap are smaller than all the others that go into the block. If he didn't know this and he put the longer bolt in one of the main cap holes it will bottom out and crack, this causes a bad rear main seal leak. Any mopar engine builder knows this when using stock items. It is noted in most Motor manuals.

If the leak because of a internal pressure problem, consider running a moroso electric vacuum pump. This will stop that issue and it will make more power. Most drag only cars run a vacuum pump the electric style works better for a street car.

If you are running INDY or BI heads they are oiled by lines from the block to the heads. check to see if the hoses are leaking. I don't know how elerbrock heads are oiled.

fyi an easy fix for the stock oil pan seal problem, is to find the 2 shorter bolts and a new rear main seal cap. I used to use 2 oil pan gaskets to solve the problem:

one on the block
then the windage tray
the second gasket then the pan.

An after market rear main cap is not different from the other holes.

if you want to call me send a private message, good luck
 
My dart makes over 800 hp and I use the moroso system that uses the headers to pull pressure from the valve covers. I plumbed the hoses with braided line, like fuel lines so NHRA would not give me crap about rubber hoses. I never liked using just breathers. Like I Mentioned before the Electric vacuum pump from Moroso will solve the pressure issue. It will help the power also. If I had more money for my motor I would run a belt driven pump, they make more power! Ask a race builder the hp gain is worth the power used to run the pump, and no leaks! good luck
 
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