My 360 build.

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if you have to make choices try and have the head bigger than the intake
that's the conventional wisdom
but then the factory used the HP 340-360 head on 318's
you need to put it together to see where the tops and bottoms line up before grinding
and the roof is most important
 
Based on the gasket the bottom of the port is nearly the same now. The top and sides will need to be enlarged to match the gasket and head.

Cley
 
Cley, i have a cam for you. i am in Warman, rough specs are 238 @50thou made by comp. its a copy of the 272 mopar performance cam. came in my blueprint 408. swapped it out when i rebuilt the engine (long story about insufficient ring gap). lift with 1.5 rockers is .474. about 500 wit 1.6 have lifters , 7.6 pushrods. about 2 sizes down from your 509.
 
I'm not using the 509 cam anymore. I got a small solid flat tappet from Oregon cam grinders. Thanks for the offer though.

Cley
 
i don't think
stop right there
he has speedmaster heads and is .020 down
so he can get under .050 quench with the .028 haskets
worth a shot
you can use the mr gaskets and spray with hylomar spray- you may have to mail order it
decks should be chemically clean- some kind of spray cleaner after you mechanically clean
no sandpaper or scotchbright
a pad that does not shed carbide is ok
the oregon cam is a copy of what? hopefully not some chevycam
 
I hear good and bad about the Mr Gasket head gaskets. I have not bought head gaskets yet. I was either going to use the 1008s or a set I have at home that are supposed to squish to .045. I know I went a little small with the cam and I want as much compression as I can get while being .020 down. Wallace says it will be a difference of 9.57 (.045 gasket) to 9.96 (.028 gasket). Will that be noticeable? If I knew I could get the Mr Gaskets to seal I'd try em for sure.
As far as the cam being a copy of anything, I have no idea. I told him what I wanted and he suggested a grind. I just took his suggestion. Solid Flat Tappet, 230/236@.050, 264/270 adv, .453/.473 lift (1.5 rocker), 112 lsa. 108 int centerline, Lash .022/.024, Int. open @ 7 close @ 43,Exh open @ 54 close @2, 9 degree overlap @ .050.

Cley
 
Cley It's not the compression - which would be better- but the quench
Mr gasket should seal
on the cam it just looks like a lot of duration for that little lift
those timing at .050?
That late close is going to bleed off dynamic compression
ask AJ what he thinks
or one you would grind for stock heads with retainer to stem seal and spring limitations
not that it won't work
 
Thanks for the reply! I am going to try this cam and see what it gets me. As far as head gaskets, Man I just don't know!

Cley
 
keep us posted
post up your mechanical compression then your cranking after you get it broken in
we can all learn something and as you can see you are not the only one going through this analysis
I'd use the thin gasket as I said above
use the correct lube on the head bolts and retorque them
those that don't IMHO are the ones that have the problems and NEED a composition gasket
we used to run shims with copper coat or aluminum spray with Stage III wedge compresion
use google for spray vendors like Grainger, Competition Products - should be someone in Canada
cheers
 
89on35s said:
Thanks for the reply! I am going to try this cam and see what it gets me. As far as head gaskets, Man I just don't know!

Cley
Click to expand...
My suggestion would be to use the fel pro-1008 and have a peace of mind...
I have a 238 248 duration with 474 494 lift at 1.5:1 rockers..(I have one point six to one so it's a little bit more)
My point is though when I talked to Ken I talked about my combination and what I was expecting from it and that is what he gave me. Sometimes people don't realize the conversation you have with Ken very much dictates what he recommends..
people will look at that Cam and say it doesn't have enough of this or it has too much of that for this or that purpose but not realizing the conversation you had and his reasonings behind what he recommends...
 
Ok, not sure what I did wrong when installing my cam bearings but my cam is super tight. It was not like this before. What am I missing? What would cause the cam to be tight in the bearings? It's a brand new cam and brand new bearings. I tried an old cam and it fits exactly like the new cam so I am sure the cam is good! Where did I go wrong?

It slides in like it should till it tries to enter the last bearing. Shows witness mark on #4 bearing as tight. I completely removed the back (small) bearing to make sure that was no problem and it made no difference. Still hanging up in the #4 bearing.
Cley
 
Well I can be a hard headed asshole at times! After wrecking 2 sets of cam bearings I got it figured out! I thought it was just me!

Cley
 
so please share
I understand since day one the book has been a thou off
#4 is almost always tight
I have a nice straight cam with groves in number 4
reams nicely
another story is that the factory reams after bearing install which you can't duplicate with replacement bearings
no matter
what was your fix?
 
It is not fixed as yet, however I have a stock 360 cam that fits exactly like the new cam I purchased so I'll cut a groove in #4 and ream it with that. I felt bad because I didn't search the forum before I cried for help here on my thread! Since this is my first engine bottom end build I had never heard of this. I am using @krazykuda and his "How to build a small block mopar" as my guide so If it isn't in there, I don't know it! I wish I had left the cam bearings alone as they were fine. I just changed them for the sake of having everything new.

Cley
 
89on35s said:
It is not fixed as yet, however I have a stock 360 cam that fits exactly like the new cam I purchased so I'll cut a groove in #4 and ream it with that. I felt bad because I didn't search the forum before I cried for help here on my thread! Since this is my first engine bottom end build I had never heard of this. I am using @krazykuda and his "How to build a small block mopar" as my guide so If it isn't in there, I don't know it! I wish I had left the cam bearings alone as they were fine. I just changed them for the sake of having everything new.

Cley
Click to expand...


I will resume the series when my younger son comes back from school... He goes to college in another state and I don't get to see him much during the school season... He will be back over the summer and we can resume his build then so I can make the rest of the How To articles to get the rest of the engine together...
 
Well my daughter got something done on my engine build since I have been busy!
From this:
IMG_20200404_180723_416.jpg

To this:
20200420_162713.jpg


Cley
 
Hey Cley. Do you have any info on the balance job you got with the KB107's like how much weight they had to remove or add?
I have heard some say you need to balance and others that the KB's are close enough.
 
Wyrmrider said:
if you have to make choices try and have the head bigger than the intake
that's the conventional wisdom
but then the factory used the HP 340-360 head on 318's
you need to put it together to see where the tops and bottoms line up before grinding
and the roof is most important
Click to expand...

Yup. Horrible mismatch right from the factory and the engines ran just fine. Plus, people have been doing it for decades with good results. Kinda makes all the "that won't work" gurus eat crow.
 
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