My New Shop!! Yiippeee!

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6pk2goDemon said:
Mully, Big congrats to you!! That's gonna be quite the man cave when it's finished. It looks great and to see you doing alot of it yourself is impressive. Now you'll have room for more toys LOL..........:thumrigh: It's amazing how garages just seem to fill up so dang fast.

Spend a little time on this site for lots of ideas. It's kinda like FABO, but for garages.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
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I have already spent some time over there and was treated like a very poorly. I explained that I was needing info on power, water, and data ran to the shop. Told them(later on in the thread) what three licensed electricians said and the guys on the garagejournal said ite was incorrect. When I made the thread I had not talked to anyone but as time rolled on I did and finally got back to my thread. Long story but they told me to "search for yourself" and "why are you even asking us if you aren't going to listen to us". Anyways I'm done over there.

pastortom1 said:
You MAY want to consider a "loft" truss instead for the roof........Not too much more investment, and TONS more storage.......Boy am I glad I chose them.......I have a 12 by 38 foot room upstairs with a full 7.5" ceiling just by changing out my roof truss design.

A little more cost, a little more steel roofing.......But WOW what a difference.
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My roof pinch is 6 and 12 so I doubt there is going to much room up there far as height to work with. Also the roof design is a Hip roof not gable. It needs to be HIP to match my house

inkjunkie said:
Looks good, ever think about a mini-spit for heat & a/c? Friend just got a 2 ton unit from http://www.ac-world.com/?gclid=CPTgsYnG0akCFQgbQgodo1gxNw
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I all need for my sq ft of the shop is a 15000 btu so Im going to get the PTAC type with heat pump. I already have the rough opening built.

Just noticed you mentioned a lift, I spoke with a local guy that does all the dealerships and what not. He told me 4" is all that is needed, providing it is reinforced 3000psi stuff. Also has to be, I think it was 8" from the edge or any crack/cut/joint. This was a 2 post lift.....
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Ive seen the four post lift and liked it very much. I will check into it however on the price of 3000 psi versus 6". Thanks
 
just dig out a little deeper in the area you legs will be located and pour it thicker with the rest 4 ". When I put my lift in I sawed a 2 ft strip and dug it out deep enough to hold 2 yds of concrete since that was minimum order. You may have to leave an opening between trusses where lift will sit. Mine is 12 ft tall. No problem doing it like that because vehicle will not go that high. Will be very nice, congrats, Joe
 
Looks great Marland!

You're gonna like the blocks reaching that far up from the floor. No
danger of messing up the drywall with water down there.

Mine is built the same way.
 

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I like it! When I made my garage bigger, I put an air hose inside of the wall. The back room in my garage has my air compressor and all of my power tools, at the garage entrance I have the other end to my air hose and I have a big air hose rolled up there should I ever need my air tools. You could do something similar, I love it that way.
You can see a little bit of my garage from this picture of my old Porsche.
 

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red67gts said:
just dig out a little deeper in the area you legs will be located and pour it thicker with the rest 4 ". When I put my lift in I sawed a 2 ft strip and dug it out deep enough to hold 2 yds of concrete since that was minimum order. You may have to leave an opening between trusses where lift will sit. Mine is 12 ft tall. No problem doing it like that because vehicle will not go that high. Will be very nice, congrats, Joe
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"just dig out a little deeper"

Damn right! Why didn't I think of that. A yd of concrete is $84. Lets just say it takes 5 more yds to poor a 6" slab verus a 4". That's additional $420!!

Here is lift specifications and the type lift I would like to have. It might not be exactly this one but it will be close. The lift would have a slider in the middle that a oil catch can could be placed on as well as air operated jacks (one for each side of the vehicle to lift the tire off the platform). You probably have seen this type lift system. I will have around 11' of ceiling height but not sure at this point.

A - Clearance Under Runway 67"
B - Overall Length 246" (20' 6")
C - Overall Width 137 1/4" (11' 5")
D - Clearance Between Columns 114" (9' 6")
E - Overall Length w/o Approach Ramps 214” (17' 10")
F - Height of Columns 89” (7' 5")
G - Runway Width 20" (1' 8")
H - Height of Runway 7”
Capacity 14,000-lbs.
Maximum Wheel Base 180" (15')
Lifting Height 74" (6' 2")
Width Between Runways 43" (3' 7")
Power Requirement 220 Volt, Single Phase, 30 Amp
Shipping Weight 3,675 lbs.
Rise Time 65 Seconds
Clearance Under Runways 66 3/4"
 

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Tony Fields said:
Looks great Marland!

You're gonna like the blocks reaching that far up from the floor. No
danger of messing up the drywall with water down there.

Mine is built the same way.
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Yeah my existing attached garage is like that so I wanted to copy it for my shop. By looking at your picture mine will look exactly the same... I mean down to the service panel location. lol

65meanFISH said:
I like it! When I made my garage bigger, I put an air hose inside of the wall. The back room in my garage has my air compressor and all of my power tools, at the garage entrance I have the other end to my air hose and I have a big air hose rolled up there should I ever need my air tools. You could do something similar, I love it that way.
You can see a little bit of my garage from this picture of my old Porsche.
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What I have in mind is have the air compressor located on the back wall with the plumbing stubbed out. The plumbing will be inside the wall, go up into the attic, and down through the ceiling into a air hose reel attached to the ceiling.
 
I believe I need to pour my garage floor level as possible. Look here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86023

I was going to have a slope back to front so the water will run out when washing the garage. I have a nice 4' squeegee that I can use to push the water out. After seeing the problems with unlevel floor with a lift I think I should level it.

What do you guys think or would do??
 
Sorry that you had a bad experience on the Garage Journal forum. There truly is a wealth of info to be had from there.

The thread you reference above is talking about a 2 post lift and leveling issues from right to left. It looks like you're planning a 4 post lift, so not really much of an issue. You should slope slightly back to front for drainage. Maybe 1/8" on 12 or so. You won't notice it at all, but slope just enough to let gravity do its thing.
 
6pk2goDemon said:
Sorry that you had a bad experience on the Garage Journal forum. There truly is a wealth of info to be had from there.

The thread you reference above is talking about a 2 post lift and leveling issues from right to left. It looks like you're planning a 4 post lift, so not really much of an issue. You should slope slightly back to front for drainage. Maybe 1/8" on 12 or so. You won't notice it at all, but slope just enough to let gravity do its thing.
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I it kind of hit me this afternoon that I was going for the 4 post lift and that it would be a different issue with it.

I can't remember the rule of thumb when sloping concrete. I found by looking on the internet ½" per yard for garages. So I have 30' which is 10 yds so that would mean I would slope it 5" That seems a awful lot but I guess that would work considering it being 30' long.

It goes on to state that for driveways you use 1" for each yard. That is more because it will get heavy down pours of rain and needs a little extra lift.
 
This will be the best money you have ever spent. Looking good.
 
Man you have some skill man. How did you learn to do all of this? Do you have to worry about city inspectors coming in for code?
 
LJS30 said:
How did you learn to do all of this?
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My dear dad taught me everything I know. When I was out of school for summer vacation my arse went to work not sit at home and play video games. I was on the construction site picking up trash, brick, you name it. Then when I hit the age of 15 or so I strapped on a nail apron.

He is not with us anymore but he and I built a bunch of houses. I have close to 15 yrs in construction so I have learned a little and forgot a lot!! lol

Do you have to worry about city inspectors coming in for code?
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Its not city but it is county.... I really can't tell you which is worse. I got turned down twice on the footing. One was clearly my fault (that "forgot" that I was talking about earlier), but the other the SOB could have let it slide. You have to bend the rebar around the corners of the building now. Not laid on top of one another like it has always been done. The bad part about it is that rebar IS NOT REQUIRED, but if used it MUST BE INSTALLED PROPERLY. He turned me down on that in which in my mind using rebar WOULD make it stronger than NOT having rebar at all! But that's how they want it.
 
Dang Marland, what a shop! I'm truly happy for you and certainly admire your construction skills. Your Father certainly taught you well and although he has passed, a part of him still lives on through you.

Just curious, would the slope of the concrete pad affect mounting of the lift? Would the lift end up tilted?
 
Very awesome to see ya building your own.........
 
mullinax95 said:
I believe I need to pour my garage floor level as possible. Look here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86023

I was going to have a slope back to front so the water will run out when washing the garage. I have a nice 4' squeegee that I can use to push the water out. After seeing the problems with unlevel floor with a lift I think I should level it.

What do you guys think or would do??
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I poured my floor level for the first 10' where my work bench is then sloped it 1" from there to the door. That's going to be a nice shop.
 
ramcharger said:
Dang Marland, what a shop! I'm truly happy for you and certainly admire your construction skills. Your Father certainly taught you well and although he has passed, a part of him still lives on through you.

Just curious, would the slope of the concrete pad affect mounting of the lift? Would the lift end up tilted?
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homecloned said:
Nice job going on there! Sounds like your father was a special guy mullinax95.
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Yes dad was a good man. He would go out of his way to help others. He lived close to my friends house. My friend had a problem with is copper plumbing under his house where over the years the well water had ate up the copper making pin holes in which it was leaking. My dad went over there and he and my friend repaired the copper. He didn't charge my friend a dime for the work. My friend always remembers that about dad and the fishing trips that my dad took him on in which dad supplied the boat, rods, gas, etc..

I don't know it the concrete pad would affect the four post lift (the one I like) as opposed to the two post lift. The two post lift needs to be pretty level I assume because it doesn't have platforms for the car tires to sit on. I guess I better check with the lift companies before I pour the slab. I'm planning on have 1/8" fall for every 3' so that a total of 5" fall in my 30' shop span. I don't think that would affect it that much but it might. It's code that it have fall so when I mentioned pouring it level earlier in this thread... that thought got shot out the door.

64X2 said:
Very awesome to see ya building your own.........
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I will have to have help with the trusses and setting the LVLs over the garage door. I will have a crane out here to help set both but need my friend on the other end nailing while I nail the other side. The trusses are ordered and shouldn't be long for them to be here. The truss company said that they didn't have anything to do so they could started on mine it a timely manner.

stansblue72 said:
I poured my floor level for the first 10' where my work bench is then sloped it 1" from there to the door. That's going to be a nice shop.
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That's a great idea but I better check with the building inspector ... he might not like that to much. If he says that will be OK then I might do it that way.
 
if you have 1/8" fall in 3 ft you would only have 1 1/4" total in 30 ft so it would not even be noticable. If you wanted you could shim under legs but I don't really see that being a problem especially with 4 post. I am considering a 36' x 40' with 3 bays with center bay 12 ft with 8 ft on each side. Will have 12/12 pitch in center 6/12 on sides to match my house. When you finish yours you can start on mine!Joe
 
Looking good Marland!My garage is 30x30 drive-thru(single garage door at the back)it,s still to small.I,d like a 40x60ft for when I retire.LOL
 
red67gts said:
if you have 1/8" fall in 3 ft you would only have 1 1/4" total in 30 ft so it would not even be noticeable. If you wanted you could shim under legs but I don't really see that being a problem especially with 4 post. I am considering a 36' x 40' with 3 bays with center bay 12 ft with 8 ft on each side. Will have 12/12 pitch in center 6/12 on sides to match my house. When you finish yours you can start on mine!Joe
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I've got my math all screwed up then... I was using the wrong decimal on my calculator and came up with 5" somehow.

0.125 is the proper decimal.

pettybludart said:
Looking good Marland!My garage is 30x30 drive-thru(single garage door at the back)it,s still to small.I,d like a 40x60ft for when I retire.LOL
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68383GTS said:
Looks good....Mine is 24x48 and it's not big enough.
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I will more than likely wish I had built a much bigger shop. I guess everyone that builds a shop no matter the size feels the same way. Human nature I believe is we all have a little bit of "pack rat" in our genes. I just need to keep it organized and don't by junk I don't need. lol



Tony Fields said:
Looking at those construction pics brings back a lot of memories.

Lookin' great Marland!
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Come on down Tony and you can help if you like. I'm single so while I'm at work you have the whole place to yourself.
 
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